Am used to pre-unit clutch setups. Put in my new or v.g.c 2nd hand clutch parts, with new pushrod into my 1966 3 spring unit. . Springs measured to 1.75", "3 Balls" activator assembly ( new to me) seemed working fine on pre-build. Cable appears correct and is new.
Tightened the springs to the top of the spring pins after adjusting the clutch lever and backed off the clutch adjuster half a turn, having set it to just touching the pushrod..and pulled the rather stiff clutch lever with anticipation.
Result is about 15mm of movement and it's at once spring bound and wont go any further towards the grip. Yet the springs are the right length for a 12 plate clutch.
The only way I can get some reasonable movement in the clutch lever is by backing off the spring nuts from their starting tightness of " first pin thread showing" about 4 whole turns or more .
I bought new spring pins, claimed to be stock size. This might be the prob but I don't know the spec length.
Maybe this is wholly normal on units, maybe something else is going on. I don't want to gasket up my primary and have to remove it all over again. Comments welcome
I'd back the spring nuts off until the springs don't bind (and a bit more) and wouldn't worry about it as long as the nuts are holding by a reasonable number of threads, the nuts don't touch the outer cover and the clutch grips and releases.
UPDATE: Well I took the springs out. Thout the right length, they are 81/2 turns instead of the WSM spec 7 1/2 which would account for the binding but,
Even with all the springs out and the pressure plate out, the clutch lever still does not depress to the grip...it only goes about half way. The engagement 3 Balls thingy does have a spoke with a screwed end with a locknut, that is set about halfway....
Very puzzling, ideas welcomed.
Here is the travel/lift of the clutch push rod from clutch out, pushing towards the 3 balls so no slack there and then pulling the lever. 0.124 = 3.2mm only!
Hmmmmmm....................do the clutch lever will never go down unless there is more travel on the push rod from the 3Balls engager.
OK I don't have Doherty levers but a reasonable Taiwanese version of levers...that's the only variable I can think of.[/color][color:#FF6666]
Last edited by Peter Gee; 09/17/1711:43 am.
Re: '66 TR6C Clutch Weirdness? Or Maybe Not?
[Re: Peter Gee]
#708757 09/17/1712:59 pm09/17/1712:59 pm
As previously posted, check the threaded 'abutment' that the cable locates in, in the top of the gearbox cover.
The block on the end of the spoke that carries the cable nipple goes up inside the abutment when the lever is pulled, but the abutment is drilled internally to two different diameters - large at the end that screws into the gearbox, smaller at the top to accept a split sleeve that serves to take up some of the cable length in final assembly, in which the cable outer ferrule locates.
This means that the abutment effectively has a step inside it. I had to drill mine out to move the 'step' further up towards the top of the part (allowing more travel for the block on the end of the spoke), and it seems like the other poster did too.
Otherwise, there is a small conical spring on the centre pin of the three-ball setup - is that going coil-bound?
If it feels like a 'dead-stop' then I would look to the abutment first.