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#707988 - 09/11/17 12:56 am 1939 16H  
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 202
peter berry Offline
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peter berry  Offline
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 202
Ontario , Canada
What is the value of a professionally restored , nice running ,low milage 1939 16 H . Anyone with experience riding one. Guy is asking around 7000 US. This is a very nice looking bike . PETER

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#708015 - 09/11/17 8:55 am Re: 1939 16H [Re: peter berry]  
Joined: Aug 2001
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Rohan Offline
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Rohan  Offline
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Posts: 1,923
Oztralia
Bear in mind Peter that we can't see it, and beauty (and value) is in the eye of the beholder.
As is the state of its mechanical condition.

So with that caveat, that isn't totally outrageous $$, and the values have been sneaking up,
and they might be rarer (much rarer ?) in Canada than elsewhere.
Someone in the USA was discussing this the other day, and they are uncommon there too.
Buying and bringing one back home will probably cost you all of that anyway.

Now, something else to watch though is that almost all 16H's on the planet are ex-military bikes,
genuine civvy bikes from back in that era are decidedly less common.
Whether that affects value much is difficult to say, although you could barely restore a civvy bike
to a brilliant standard for that price (?), and a military bike would probably cost equally as much to pretty up
The numerous WW2 16H's were based on the 1937 civilian bike, and the 1938 etc bikes were slightly different.

I haven't actually ridden a 16H, but something very similar in company with 16Hs, and you have to have the mindset that these are not going to break any speed records, and cannot really be cruised on the motorways or interstates, circa 55 mph is probably the practical limit, with a smidgin in reserve. If you have backroads they can be used on, with like minded owners, then they are great fun, and a nice time machine. The Model 16 itself dates back to 1911, and the 16H and 16C (Home market and Colonial models) diverged ~1921, so they have a well proved pedigree !!



#708335 - 09/14/17 1:27 am Re: 1939 16H [Re: Rohan]  
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 202
peter berry Offline
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peter berry  Offline
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 202
Ontario , Canada
Rohan much appreciated this is a nicely restored 16H restored by a very reputable Canadian restorer . It is in nice running condition . It is a WD model and restored as such. I own a couple of pre unit triumph twins so won't be too worried by the limitations of the 16H . I typically restore my own bikes so the price seemed high tome but know from experience the owner has more than that in it . I appreciate yur insights . Peter
1963 Triumph TR6
1956 Triumph TR6

#714709 - 11/12/17 2:59 am Re: 1939 16H [Re: peter berry]  
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peter berry Offline
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peter berry  Offline
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Posts: 202
Ontario , Canada
I did purchase this motorcycle and have run into a couple of minor issues . Firstly the kick start does not return it needs to be pulled up manually after kicking and once started falls down and will not stay up.
The second issue is an idling problem the bike will start and run but will not idle properly . When screwing the pilot air screw there is no response either way. The bike runs rich . The previous owner had the 16h for three years and put about 5 miles on it so I'm assuming there is a blockage in the carb and it needs cleaning . Peter

#714710 - 11/12/17 3:35 am Re: 1939 16H [Re: peter berry]  
Joined: Aug 2001
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Rohan Offline
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Rohan  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,923
Oztralia
Congrats ! This is called bonding with your bike (or establishing who is boss ?).
Old vehicles need some fettling, some more than others.
Incantations and offerings to the gods (or beer) may or may not help, good luck.

There is a spring behind that little tin cover behind the kickstart lever - its removal can range from easy to impossible.
It sounds like the spring is broken or the end(s) are not engaged correctly.
They are cheap to buy, and not that difficult to fit.(keep a spare one)
Mark the kickstarter and shaft so you put it back at the correct angle.

Idling difficulties are usually dirt/debris in the jets, like you say. Its best to start by draining the fuel tank (completely), and seeing that the fuel delivered is clean and the tank squeaky clean to begin with - rust particles and AMAL carbs are mutual enemies. You might get away with with removing the bottom nut of the AMAL, and tipping out any rust/debris/water. It can take a very thorough clean indeed of the fuel passages, and if it persists, clean it again. There is a bit of a rigmarole to ensure the fuel in the float chamber is at the right level, but if the richness persists then this might need looking at. The taper on the fuel needle can be ground in using brasso, don't overdo it.
Have fun !


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