Just picked up this gem yesterday, July 14, 2017, from a fellow BritBike member. Thanks Red !! Anyway, it is a 1968 Daytona and looks like it may have been sitting since the '70's and definitely the '80's in some kind of leaky shed or "barn" ...cough, cough. However, the engine turns over, so that is a good thing ! I unloaded it from the truck before heading to work and then attacked it after I got home today. First thing I did was rummage through my kickstand (side stand) collection and get one attached to the bike. The next thing I will do is remove the extended Triumph disc brake front end and fit a proper, stock length front end to this bike...hopefully tomorrow.
The whole goal for this machine is to be able to get it running and back on the road with what parts I already have on hand and spend as little as possible buying new parts....not counting a possible engine rebuild. So, we'll see !!
I've seen a lot of bikes with "filler" on the top frame tubes lately. Guess those high mount peanut tanks looked a little better with a clean pedestal.
New front end will help.
Nice save Jon.
Don in Nipomo
Red, thanks and will do.
I came home from work yesterday and attacked it immediately. It took me about 4 hours from start to finish and into night, but I got it done. I will say, that if I didn't have a fork tube puller,it wouldn't have been done last night.I do have the expensive puller but used my older and cruder puller which is only for non oil in frame Triumphs. It still works a treat though. I have to tighten it all up but it now rolls with stock, correct length forks !!
Steve, I will be fitting the proper 1968 H2100 "P" Clamp Triple Trees and 8" SLS front wheel. The later and wider triple trees were fitted to accommodate that DLS because it had a tire on it and the SLS didn't.
Here's a clearer pic of the bike with proper type forks fitted and after I degreased and washed it yesterday.
I'll post a picture or two but the rear sub-frame is greatly tweaked to the right side of the bike, not to mention also terribly welded on in a few places. I happened to spot an NOS rear frame section on eBay and it will be on the way shortly. I also have some NOS shocks I've been saving and will use them on this bike.
Today I was going to swap out the rear frame section but the filled in part of the front frame section and numbers area was really bothering me, so after extensively degreasing the rear frame mounting area and center stand, I attacked the filler instead. I used a propane torch to burn the plastic filler off and a few scrapers. I have had to do this to a few frames in the past and they were all filled in over cardboard. However, these jokers decided to use thin walled steel and brazing along with the filler to do the job Now, I wonder what the best way will be to get that braze-brass off of there...all ideas welcome ? And, hopefully the coil mounting bracket is still there.
Fortunately, they didn't totally destroy the numbers on the frame. You can't see the first two numbers after the H in the pictures but I can just make them out. However, as it stands right now, they wouldn't be visible once paint is applied. Looks like I'll have to register it before painting !
Also, strange arrangement on the ignition switch/wiring setup. Maybe the owner at the time was running a solo seat in order to get to the switches
Heat would be ideal but if you're talented you could possibly remove the braze with a small grinder . I'd cut the sheet metal out close as I could to the tubes first and then attack welds. Don't grind any metal from the frame! Cutting wheel, abrasive flap wheels and a steady hand might do it. Finish with a hand file.