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BSA A65 main bearing question (DS) #701126
07/08/17 5:32 pm
07/08/17 5:32 pm
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 612
Oregon
D
Dana_twin Offline OP
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Dana_twin  Offline OP
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 612
Oregon
My 1966 motor has the ball bearing on the crank drive side (67-1240) but I see the later engines (1967-68?) used the roller bearing 68-0625 so I can go ahead and just use 68-0625 instead? Anything else to note if making this change?

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Re: BSA A65 main bearing question (DS) [Re: Dana_twin] #701153
07/08/17 10:51 pm
07/08/17 10:51 pm
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,702
ca, us
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DMadigan Offline
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DMadigan  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2004
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ca, us
You need to provide for the end float. The later engines had shims between the roller and crank with a bronze thrust bush on the timing side. I presume your cases do not have the feature for holding the thrust bearing?
A work around is to use an outside race captured roller with the single lip on the inside race then add a roller guide ring between the inner race and the engine sprocket. An NUP or NH bearing type

Re: BSA A65 main bearing question (DS) [Re: NickL] #701456
07/11/17 2:59 pm
07/11/17 2:59 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,841
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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Allan Gill  Offline

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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,841
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Originally Posted by NickL
The crank is different dimensionaly so fitting a roller race will involve making up spacers/shims to centre the crank in the cases and have a thrust surface on the timing side.
Problem with the NUP style bearings is they are only available as metric sizes so mean either machining the cases or the bearing.
For a street bike just fit another ball race, they are good for at least 30k miles. Save yourself all the work.


Completely agree, I reverted from the roller to the ball quite happily on my 68', and will do this again too.


beerchug

Moderated by  Allan Gill, Jon W. Whitley 


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