Some nice work, and you have some cool tools.

…for fixing the fuel tank, I bought a kit from Norton Race Parts in England. The kit includes a polished stainless steel strap, backing rubber, end fixings and a toggle.

To attach the toggle to the cross member (that need to be straightened, as mentioned in my last post), I first needed to plug the hole in the center of the cross member. The hole was presumably used for some previous tank fixing arrangement and was quite worn and oval. I ran a hand reamer through the hole to clean it up a restore the circular profile. A piece of round bar was turned down to fit, welded in place and the weld filed and finished with a strip of emery cloth to match the outer profile of the cross member.









A pair of securing lugs was cut and shaped from mild steel flat bar. A spacer was made up from a piece of tubing with a through bolt to hold the assembly while tack welding in place.

Well that's 2 hours of my life I won't get back.

I normally only open the Triumph forum, but spread my wings a bit today and discovered this thread. Brilliant work, great script and superb photos.

…as none of the existing seat mounts were even close to the positions needed for the seat that I am using, I cut these off. I also wanted to add some rigidity at the rear of the frame as there is not a loop at the end.

I fabricated an H frame support from mild steel flat bar. One of the members needed to be scalloped - first using a jig saw then with a boring head – to clear the mudguard. Flat bar spacers were welded on to get the correct seat height and angle.

…the existing hole in the lug that I am using for attaching the tank strap was oversized. So, I made a bushing and pressed it into the hole using a bolt and socket.

Hey Bry,

First off, absolutely amazing work!

I have a question I was wondering/hoping if you could help me with; I tried sending you a PM, but for some reason it's not working for me.

I'm currently in the process of restoring a '51 Wideline Triton and I'm going to be putting some Ceriani GP35 forks on her and the guy making them needs the dimensions for the stem - but I'll be stuffed if I can find that info anywhere.. Would you mind terribly helping me with this?

Cheers,
Adrian.

Hi Adrian,

I'll be happy to help if I can, let me know what dimensions you need.

Bry

…after considering a lot of options for the exhaust system, I decided to go with Armours reverse cone megas and stainless steel swept back Dresda downpipes.

I first made a frame lug from mild steel plate for the near-side, using the existing one on the off-side as a template.

I cut out support brackets for the silencers from mild steel plate and drilled and bored them.

I arranged with Dresda to supply the exhaust pipes with the head stub sockets loose so I can weld them on myself to get the best fit and alignment . I cut the ends back but I’ll wait until final assembly, when the frame lugs are fully welded, before welding these on.

Where can I buy good files from these days?

I have been buying Nicholson files while in the US, but they are available here from online tool dealers.

Thanks.

What holds those drilled plates onto the silencers?

There is a slotted channel on the back of the silencer that captivates the nuts. Screws still need to be cut down in this picture.

Ok- unless your Triton vibrates a lot less than mine, look out for those slotted attachments cracking and falling apart.

You may be able to avert that by mounting them with rubber in there somewhere.

Thanks for the advice, the bloke at Dresda also told me to watch out for this when I ordered the down pipes. I was considering fitting these, but decided to wait and see if there is a problem first as they can be retrofitted by replacing solid spacers that I'm using. Besides I have my concerns about how well they would support the exhaust in a dynamic situation as they are not really designed for shear loads.



...I am going to run the bike without a battery and am using the Podtronics "battery eliminator" unit with the built in capacitor. It fits well under the seat bracket.

I have two rubber bobbins on each silencer, so the exhaust doesn't drop off when the rubber inevitably eventually fails.

Are they similar in style to the ones in my picture?

Kind of.

One of these Austin Mini 5/16" stud type and a 6mm one on each side. I can't even remember why it ended up with that odd combination.

[img]https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1359/2999/products/EH2a_large.png?v=1467203676[/img]

I'll post a pic tomorrow. Prepare yourself to be unimpressed by my standard of finish.

The ones in the photo are Commando rear oil tank fittings and they are prone to failure as the tank is not supported very well, I have replaced them with old Mini exhaust rubber mounts which I also use to support the silencers on my Commando but not with a 6mm thread on one end, 5/16 on both ends.

There are waisted



and unwaisted versions



there are chinese knockoffs with 8mm threads.

All these bobbins suffer from being weak in shear and one of the ends eventually loses the fight to grip the rubber, so the waisted version is not more failure prone.

Pipe welded to silencer.

Thanks, as I need to be able to screw these into the captivated nuts in the slotted channel on the silencer, I have ordered a set of these (http://www.avindustrialproducts.co.uk/documents/Page%209.%20Hex-Bemag%20Bobbins.pdf) with hex end plates to get a spanner on.

The manufacturer does give a shear rating for these, but we'll see how long a service life they have. How often do you need to replace the ones on your Norton?

Thanks a lot for posting the pictures triton thrasher, that helps a lot. I should be able to have a similar arrangement with 2 bobbins per silencer.

Are these the only exhaust supports that you have, other than the connection at the head?

I think I am on my 3rd set on the exhausts in 29 years of ownership, the upgrade on the oil tank has only been on 18 months but the one I replaced had been split and distorted but just hanging on for many years.

…the oil tank is fixed with rubber mounted, through bolts to the support plate below, but there was quite a bit of movement at the top of the tank when rocking it back and forwards.
…the oil tank is fixed with rubber mounted, through bolts to the support plate below, but there was quite a bit of movement at the top of the tank when rocking it back and forwards.

To fix it but still retain the elastic mounting, I made a threaded insert for the frame cross tube to accommodate a rubber bobbin (originally purchased for mounting the silencer but now redundant as I have ordered larger items, see previous thread). I just tack welded the insert into the frame and will braze this on later. As a precaution, I removed the Podtronics unit before welding.

I fabricated a cross member from stainless steel flat bar to locate onto the tank through bolts and rubber bobbin.








To fix it but still retain the elastic mounting, I made a threaded insert for the frame cross tube to accommodate a rubber bobbin (originally purchased for mounting the silencer but now redundant as I have ordered larger items, see previous thread). I just tack welded the insert into the frame and will braze this on later. As a precaution, I removed the Podtronics unit before welding.

I fabricated a cross member from stainless steel flat bar to locate onto the tank through bolts and rubber bobbin.

Yes they're only held there and at the head. I don't clamp the pipes onto the head stubs very tightly, since cracks have occurred at that end too.

There are car engine mounting rubber bobbins in existence, that are much stronger. Some day, some day I'll fix it right..... or maybe I'll just run out of days.

You have through bolts on the oil tank?

Yes; they pass through tubes, seal welded to the top and bottom walls, which also hold the rubber isolators.