Please forgive me for bringing this topic in to existence again. I have dutifully read all existing posts concerning oil filters and I'm more confused than ever. I pulled my old filter off and low and behold it's still the stock filter for my 74' Roadster. I assumed the conversion had been done but alas it hasn't. I would love to get this thing running again tonight so I'm humbly asking if someone will point me to a filter that I can purchase at an auto parts store that will fit my stock filter base. Many thanks in advance. Ed
"Not at all",, I just found out from Brihit. I was using a Champion H101. A Mechanic friend recommends a filter with a lower bypass PSI. The napa 1032 is a lot lower than the champion, based on DD 's info.
Sorry but I understood a filter by- pass and a by-pass filter to be totally diferent. A filter by-pass being part of the overall filter to allow thick cold oil at engine start up to flow into the engine without the pressure build up blowing up the filter element and to allow oil to reach the engine when idiots run the filters for so long the elements will not pass sufficient oil for the engine.Known as full flow filters.
Ahh found it OIL FILTER BASICS.By-pass filter. This consists of allowing a small percentage (7-10%)of the oil from the high pressure gallery to flow through a high efficiency depth filter and then return to the sump. The flow is controlled by a restrictor and the filter media is typically densly packed cellulose fibres or stacked lobes of dense fibre board. ADVANTAGES. A high efficiency at low particle size, 1-5 microns, particularly useful for the removal of carbonaceous sludge. DISADVANTAGES. Without being abnormally large incapable of coping with the full flow to the engine. Ie a by-pass filter is a seperate filter to the full flow one which deals with the oil required by the motor.
I notice on E bay people are now flogging magnets to attach to filters to collect magnetic particles with the filters that would normally be so small they would pass through the filter elemenyt and back to flow around the motor again and again. Been around for a long time . Bung one of these new fangled neo magnets on the end of your oil tank cap dip stick....and another in the bottom of the crankcases in the end of a plug..wired up so it doesnt drop out of course leaving you with your oil all over the rear tyre and non in the motor as you start to sweep through those tight bends between Manx rock faces and thick dry stone walls!!!!!Sods Law states that thats when it occurs.
Of course if you are really clever you find another filter that is something like the filter designed by Crossland for Norton and which is I understand, from asking the question thew other day,still made to the original drawings for Andover Norton....... The original filter has a by-pass valve rated at 12-18 ln per sq inch and it does not have the rubber /whatever non return valve fitted as most car filters have.. Not that the non return bit should be a problem but its worth poking it to make sure it hasnt stuck solid during its x years on the shelf!! Most / all(?) filter compamies can supply a CD showing thread sizes-by pass settings - physical size.... and conversion charts so you can convert from another filter manufacturers ref number to their ref number for the same filter.. Just a matter of using your phone and askings for one. Of course they dont tell you the particle size their filter paper will pick up OR the area of the paper element and the genuine Commando one had /has if its still to original drawings...150 sq inches whilst I have found 'so called' equivelents with 100 sq inches which of course would block up quicker.... At the end of the day it sems silly to buy decent expensive oil and to buy a cheap probably crap filter......but hell you pay for the new shells/regrind/pistons/bore etc so I dont care. Its often interesting to look up car oil filter tests on the web......Mind you not if you are the worrying sort of person!!
Be careful with Fram filters. They get a hammering re. quality from ex-employees on some forums.
A number of filter companies (i.e. AC Delco and Ryco) have excellent websites with filter equivalent charts.
Actually I don't mind buying inexpensive (Ryco Z418's @ A$8) filters for my bike on the basis that they are designed to be used (in my case) in BMW318's and Toyota Camry's for 10,000km service intervals. My oil and filter gets changed at 1000 - 1500kms so there's little or no chance of the filter clogging in that time. I must say I'm tempted to try one of them thar filter magnet thingies though...