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Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: kevin roberts] #693039
04/26/17 11:24 am
04/26/17 11:24 am
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Running from demons in WNY
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Running from demons in WNY
The Corn head grease video.....

How it works


650 Triumph modified production LSR record holder 133.1 MPH... Twin 650 engine Triumph LSR that goes sorta fast...
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Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Hillbilly bike] #693076
04/26/17 4:19 pm
04/26/17 4:19 pm
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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Originally Posted by kevin roberts
combine with a corn head...
Although I'm a city boy by inclination, spending time sitting in combines, tractors, balers, etc. in the farm implement display at the Iowa State Fair as a young boy made me want to be a farmer. Luckily, fate took me on a different path because farming is way too much work and economically way too uncertain.

Originally Posted by Hillbilly bike
The Corn head grease video.....
Thanks for posting that link. Who would have thought a video of grease flowing could be so fascinating? In light of this, maybe watching paint dry wouldn't be as bad as we've been lead to believe.

Ariel update: Anyone wanting to import a bike needs a printer and scanner for legal-size paper and software to create pdfs. They also need to make sure the local shipping agent (not just the overseas shipper) has the contact information as well as not to stray too far during the process to avoid delays and costly storage fees.

A few hours before the bike landed on Monday forms were emailed to print, sign, scan into a pdf, and email back allowing the customs house broker to act on my behalf. On Tuesday more forms arrived for me to certify the bike was older than 25 years and met all Federal emissions and safety regulations at the time it was made. Later I got another email from the broker saying they needed the full VIN, rather than the 'Z1234' I had printed on the forms, or else I wouldn't be able to register it with the DMV. I replied that the number stamped on the frame was the full "VIN" that had been used by Ariel 90 years ago. So far, nothing more since clarifying that issue so I don't yet know when it will be on a truck headed toward me. I'm having it delivered to a friend's shop that's closed Sun.-Mon. so if it doesn't get here by Saturday it will be Tuesday (or later) before I see it.


Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694013
05/04/17 10:21 pm
05/04/17 10:21 pm
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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My friend dropped the Ariel off at a depot in Dublin on April 10 and it was at the shipper's warehouse in the UK, ~75 miles from Heathrow, the next day. Although its journey was off to a great start, at that point it hit molasses, taking 24 days to get to me despite having been shipped by "air."

Anyway, once it was at their warehouse it took the shipper (Oakbridge Logistics) 9 days to make the crate and then another 5 to get it on an airplane. Although the flight to LAX was quick, and it cleared Customs three days later, inexplicably it then took another 8 days to be delivered it to my house.

Actually, delivering it to my house was another problem since it should have gone to my friend's shop. Luckily, I didn't have any commitments on the afternoon it finally was to be delivered so I planned to be back home today to wait during the 1-5pm delivery window. The agent that Oakbridge had handling the shipping in the U.S. (Air Menzies International) was difficult to extract information from so by the time I discovered someone had screwed up the delivery address I decided it was safer not to try to fix the mistake (the trucking agency in town required any changes to be given to them by the shipping agent, not by me).

Although the delivery window was 1-5pm today, I got a call from the driver at 11:30am saying he needed to deliver it right away. So, I rushed home and arrived just as he did.

Unfortunately, I was taking photos so by the time I realized he didn't know what he was doing he had trapped the wheels of his pallet jack between the truck and the lift gate. The problem was the forks on the pallet jack were about 8" longer than the depth of the lift gate (i.e. making it impossible to use that pallet jack for this job) and despite that he lowered the gate a few inches. He couldn't lower it further because the forks started tilting the box off the gate, he couldn't raise it because the wheels now were in the way, and he couldn't safely drive it somewhere with proper loading equipment because the crate was hanging off the back of the truck. I took control at that point and with a hydraulic jack, load chain, and a couple of pieces of wood (none of which he was equipped with, nor did he even know how to use -- who doesn't know how to release the pressure in an hydraulic jack??) rescued my bike from the clutches of disaster.


All's well that ends well, and luckily I wasn't facing a time constraint, but it would have been faster to send the Ariel to the east coast by steamship (4 days in 1936) and then across the U.S. by locomotive (4 days in 1876). Seriously, some years ago I bought a bike from the factory in Italy, tracked it to the ship in Ligorno, two more stops in the Mediterranean to load and unload cargo, five ports down the East Coast, through the Panama Canal to Long Beach, through Customs, and by ground to me. That took 23 days, 1 day faster than the Ariel came by air.

Although it was boxed well, and eventually got to me in good condition (both very big positives, of course), if I were to do this again I would use a different company.

Attached Files 010delivery01.jpg020Ariel_Cannonball.jpg050IMG_5063.JPG
Last edited by Magnetoman; 02/14/18 11:48 pm. Reason: added photos
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694030
05/05/17 5:07 am
05/05/17 5:07 am
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New Zealand
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johnm Offline
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" if I were to do this again I would use a different company"

Probably a good plan.

Bike looks good although I understand you will completely rebuild it - It may have been assembled by the truck driver cousin ;-)

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694037
05/05/17 10:29 am
05/05/17 10:29 am
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ohio, usa
kevin roberts Offline

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interesting hiw much faster stuff was so many years ago, although of course the volume was much less.

wasnt it about twenty years ago that the time it took to drive a car across london had slowed back down to the time it took holmes and watson to do the same in a hansom cab?

is the bike as nice as it looks?


live every day.
die once.
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694076
05/05/17 6:29 pm
05/05/17 6:29 pm
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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Originally Posted by kevin Roberts
is the bike as nice as it looks?
In a word, yes. Or, yes!

The bike was restored by someone who it appears was aiming for "original" so it looks very much like a nice, complete 1928 Model C. One difference is the front mudguard is the "Wide and large section, with extra valences" of the Model D (I can't see any differences in the catalog between the C and D rear mudguards). Also, when my taller friend bought it c2010 he had Chaterlea25 make a bracket to move the seat rearward and install different handlebars. I can already tell I like the shape of the handlebars, and the seating position feels fine as well (for the all of 2 min. I sat on it in the driveway), but I'll ride it for a while before I decide whether or not to make a bracket to move the seat forward to its original position.

The one item I spotted that might be a clue to the mechanical aspect of the previous restoration is that the rear sprocket is bolted to the hub and its teeth are as-new. It's not possible to be sure from the parts catalog but it appears the original hub/sprocket assembly was one piece. So, perhaps this assembly came from some later model, or it was machined to accept a replaceable sprocket. Either way, it's an encouraging sign that the mechanical pieces that can't be seen also might have been properly dealt with.

Looking back to a thread I started on the 'General Forum' on December 31, my description of the bike I hoped to find was:

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
...a "late" (i.e. closer to 1929 than to 1919) British bike with large capacity in fairly complete mechanical
but horrible cosmetic condition somewhere in N. America and for a "reasonable" (i.e. low) price because of the missing/decrepit sheet metal.... Since it would be fairly hopeless to restore the desired rolling basket case into anything resembling concours, the price should be low and hence the huge undertaking would be worthwhile to throw myself into over the next 20 months.
The first clause relates to the desired bike's mechanical capabilities while the rest is "merely" financial. On the first, essential, clause I did great. A 1928 Ariel is a large capacity British bike and its design is one of the most modern being produced in England at that time.

On the, um, "irrelevant" financial part I actually did OK as well. The purchase was between friends so I did not overpay. I did squander ~$2.5k to get it here but, even including that, thanks to Brexit and Frexit the dollar is strong and I suspect I could sell it in the U.S. today for about what I have in it so far. Besides, on the subject of squandering money, if I don't fly First Class, my heirs will.

Also, (knock wood) the fact that it is already complete and restored, rather than an incomplete basket case, should cut a large amount of time from that necessary to re-restore it. Even problematic Indian sheet metal isn't made for vintage bikes so making some random fuel tank fit reasonably well on a bare frame would take many hours. So, I've traded money to free up at least some time to do other things over the next 16 months leading up to the Cannonball. Like ride motorcycles. Again, if I don't fly First Class, my heirs will...

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694112
05/06/17 1:55 am
05/06/17 1:55 am
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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I had hoped to take it on its first short ride tomorrow, so this afternoon I checked it over. While I was able to grease the inlet rocker whatever residue is in the the exhaust rocker has solidified and wouldn't budge. The bike has those tapered grease fittings whose name I can't remember at the moment, which limits how much force can be applied to the grease. I now have 1/4-26 Zerk fittings on order. If that doesn't let me displace the residue the rockers will have to come apart. They would anyway as part of my rebuild but I was hoping everything was in good enough shape to put some miles on it before doing any actual work. Oh well...

The forks have grease fittings of a type I've not run across before (center item in the photograph). They're 3/16" OD and also threaded 1/4-26 and I'll substitute Zerk fittings for them as well.




Attached Files 130IMG_5222.JPG
Last edited by Magnetoman; 02/14/18 11:53 pm.
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694113
05/06/17 2:05 am
05/06/17 2:05 am
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kevin roberts Offline

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i used to work on antique cars that had a lot of screw-type grease cups:

[Linked Image]

might the reservoir that these provide be better for your purposes than just a zerk fitting? i'm thinking on terms of reliability on a long road race.



live every day.
die once.
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: kevin roberts] #694120
05/06/17 3:31 am
05/06/17 3:31 am
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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Originally Posted by kevin roberts
screw-type grease cups ... might the reservoir that these provide be better for your purposes than just a zerk fitting?
Hmm, interesting idea. Thanks for suggesting it.

The forks have 5 grease points but they only need attention every 500 miles (i.e. every two days) so I think zerks should be fine there. For the rocker shafts the recommended interval is 300-400 miles so a shot every evening (~250 miles) should be as effective as full-time connection to a grease cup. Also, I'll have to remove the rocker cover at every gasoline stop (~100 miles) to oil the cups between the pushrods and rockers so it would be easy enough to give a shot of grease to each rocker shaft fitting at the same time.

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694142
05/06/17 11:07 am
05/06/17 11:07 am
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Running from demons in WNY
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Originally Posted by Magnetoman
I had hoped to take it on its first short ride tomorrow, so this afternoon I checked it over. While I was able to grease the inlet rocker whatever residue is in the the exhaust rocker has solidified and wouldn't budge. The bike has those tapered grease fittings whose name I can't remember at the moment, which limits how much force can be applied to the grease. I now have 1/4-26 Zerk fittings on order. If that doesn't let me displace the residue the rockers will have to come apart. They would anyway as part of my rebuild but I was hoping everything was in good enough shape to put some miles on it before doing any actual work. Oh well...






I have had the same problem on many vintage vehicles, old tractors etc...Heat applied to the fitting area carefully with a torch and it'll warm up the shaft or bushing to soften the oil grease.. Hold the heat to about 250-300 F for a few minutes... Then use use a grease gun to try and force in new grease. Works best with Zerks...
The Wright radial aircraft engine used for Lindbergh's solo flight across the Atlantic in the 1920's has grease fittings on the rocker shafts like most engines of it's day...Spring loaded "automatic" grease cups were used for the long trip...Some vintage cars had a series of small tubes leading to the fitting from a central grease pump that could be operated while running on the road..
That's a sharp looking machine.....


650 Triumph modified production LSR record holder 133.1 MPH... Twin 650 engine Triumph LSR that goes sorta fast...
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694153
05/06/17 12:50 pm
05/06/17 12:50 pm
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,689
Scotland
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Stuart Offline
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Hi,

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
[Linked Image]

I was taking photos so by the time I realized he didn't know what he was doing

Don't be too hard on him, that's a rookie mistake he won't make again - that could've been a picture of me whistle years ago. Looks like some US trucking company managers are just as big bastards as some British ones - as long as fork-lifts can move a pallet in the depots, they'll take the money and pay the poor sob in the picture a pittance to take the flak from the addressee. mad

The picture two minutes earlier would've told me it was never going to come off in the crate, quicker would've been to climb up in the truck with pry-bar, open the case, unstrap the bike and wheel it on to the tail-lift - I still remember having to do that with a crated ride-on lawnmower! cool

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
forks on the pallet jack were about 8" longer than the depth of the lift gate (i.e. making it impossible to use that pallet jack for this job)

Nope. A more-experienced truck driver would've told the fork-lift driver to load the pallet jack before the crate; then, if you're lucky, the wheels on the tines of the pallet jack can be pushed off the rear edge of tail-lift without everything falling off the tail-lift; when the tail-lift's dropped to the ground, crate and pallet jack can be wheeled off. cool

Regards,

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694154
05/06/17 12:51 pm
05/06/17 12:51 pm
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Stuart Offline
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Btw, bike. bigt

From another BVC (BritBike Vicarious Cannonballer grin ).

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694155
05/06/17 12:55 pm
05/06/17 12:55 pm
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 156
New Brunswick, Canada.
Bruce Martin Offline
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A bit late with this but I use Lubriplate MAG-00 semi-fluid grease in my 1937 Ariel Red Hunter 500's Burman BA gearbox. I did use steam oil for a short time. No problems so far.

Bruce


1937 Ariel Red Hunter 500
1970 Triumph Bonneville

Making the scene with the gasoline
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694172
05/06/17 6:08 pm
05/06/17 6:08 pm
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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Originally Posted by Hillbilly bike
Heat applied to the fitting area carefully with a ...Works best with Zerks...
Good suggestion, thanks. I have a pump for those old British fittings but even holding it in place and whacking the end with a rubber mallet doesn't apply all that much pressure to the grease. I decided to wait until the zercs show up so a modern grease gun can apply some serious pressure to get things moving. If that doesn't work I'll add some of your heat to the mix and only then give up and start disassembling the rocker mechanism.

Originally Posted by Hillbilly bike
The Wright radial aircraft engine used for Lindbergh's solo flight across the Atlantic in the 1920's has grease fittings on the rocker shafts like most engines of it's day...
On the subject of proper grease for engines like Lindbergh's and mine, I came across the following a few days ago:

http://www.jewellamberoil.com/

It sounds ideal for my use, although I'd feel better if it were supplied by a known lubricants company.

Originally Posted by Hillbilly bike
That's a sharp looking machine.....
Thanks. Looking good wasn't part of my search criteria but I'm very pleased with its appearance:

Removing the pillion seat improved its looks by 20%, and if I move the seat forward to its original position that should be good for another 10%. I certainly won't be embarrassed to be seen riding it.

Originally Posted by Stuart
quicker would've been to climb up in the truck with pry-bar, open the case, unstrap the bike and wheel it on to the tail-lift
It's not clear from the photo, but the ends of the crate overlapped the sides, which means the screws had to be removed from the ends before the sides could come off. Because there was no clearance between the walls of the truck removing those screws in place would have been impossible. Brute force to break the wood to gain access would have been the only choice, but what the photo also doesn't show is that 90 min. after it was taken the temperature officially hit 100 oF for the first time this year. All the effort that would have been needed to pry open the box would have been done while working in an oven with no air circulation.

Originally Posted by Stuart
Btw, bike. bigt
Thanks!

Originally Posted by Bruce Martin
I use Lubriplate MAG-00 semi-fluid grease in my 1937 Ariel Red Hunter 500's Burman BA gearbox.
Thanks. I took a quick look at its specs and it seems fine for the purpose. But a jug of the Morris semi-fluid grease should be showing up in a few weeks so I should be OK for the gearbox.

Attached Files a1928Ariel01.jpg062IMG_5074.JPG
Last edited by Magnetoman; 02/14/18 11:58 pm. Reason: added photos
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694350
05/08/17 1:28 am
05/08/17 1:28 am
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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Nothing is easy. I'm sure I'll repeat that sentiment many times in the months to come. It was remarkably difficult to measure the dimension of the timing chain, and I probably should have taken it off the bike to do, but I hate disturbing a master link, especially when I don't have a spare one handy. Anyway, I'll want to pack a spare timing chain for the ride and the one on the bike has dimensions:

pitch 1/2"
roller diameter 0.306"
roller width 1/8"
pin diameter ~0.140" (estimated from the measured swaged end).

If not for the roller width this would be #40 chain (which has either 3/16" or 1/4" width depending on the source). But, it's too narrow to be #40. If anyone knows where I can buy chain with these dimensions I would really appreciate hearing from you.

Update: Cancel my question. I already had searched for quite a while, but a minute after posting this question I found it is "non-standard" #43. I now have 10 ft. of it on order along with a few extra master links.

Last edited by Magnetoman; 05/08/17 1:41 am. Reason: Update:
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694375
05/08/17 8:22 am
05/08/17 8:22 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,946
Greensboro, NC
Alan_nc Online content
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And that was probably the cheapest part you will buy for this "journey"


Alan
Cleared m out....left only
59 BSA Bantam (Trials)
78 Triumph Bonny (UPS)
02 Suzuki GS500
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Alan_nc] #694429
05/08/17 4:34 pm
05/08/17 4:34 pm
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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Originally Posted by Alan_nc
And that was probably the cheapest part you will buy for this "journey"
There's the cost in dollars, and then there's the cost in time. In the end it probably "cost" me an hour to buy that chain (plus the time it will take to cut 35 links from the 10 ft. length once it arrives). And that's for a backup part that, knock wood, I won't even need. Even if everything turns out to be as straightforward as the chain, this Ariel is going to cost a lot of hours before it will be ready for the Cannonball.

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694437
05/08/17 5:53 pm
05/08/17 5:53 pm
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Stuart Offline
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Hi,

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Nothing is easy.
I already had searched for quite a while,

Ahem ... <koff> ... without at all wishing to appear a smart-arse, I converted your dimensions into standard roller-chain code = 410 (1/2" pitch is 4 x 1/8", roller width is 1 x 1/8"), typed "410 chain" into Google and http://chains.alliedlocke.com/item/precision-roller-chains/non-standard-series-chains/410-43-65-nss was third from the top of the list ... it appears to be a box-stock modern pushbike chain so, if Google and eBay are to be believed, the First World is awash with any length and Teflon-coated farkle you could imagine ...

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Even if everything turns out to be as straightforward as the chain, this Ariel is going to cost a lot of hours before it will be ready for the Cannonball.

Don't struggle with searches for so long? wink

Regards,

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Stuart] #694454
05/08/17 8:06 pm
05/08/17 8:06 pm
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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Originally Posted by Stuart
I converted your dimensions into standard roller-chain code ... it appears to be a box-stock modern pushbike chain
Box-stock, but non-standard chain. The heading on the link you have says:

Item # 410(43)(65), Non-Standard Series Chains

Indeed, I found it the same way you did. But, only after not finding it by googling lists of standard chain. If nothing else, this shows that, as is often the case, once the answer to a problem is known the route to getting to that answer is obvious.

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694617
05/10/17 12:25 am
05/10/17 12:25 am
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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Today I hauled the Ariel in for the required physical inspection of the numbers. Tomorrow, barring any unexpected glitches, I'll pick up the title, registration, and license plate.

After strapping the front down in the pickup I wiggled the back to make sure the bike was secure. The forks didn't move but the rest of the bike did. The steering bearings weren't loose enough to 'click' but they definitely were loose. Additional support for my decision to completely rebuild the bike.

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694618
05/10/17 12:32 am
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kevin roberts Offline

fefsa
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that is a beautiful machine, no doubt about it.

did you manage to scrounge any history of it's past 90 or so years? there have been almost a century of owners, and i always wonder what the stories were.


live every day.
die once.
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: kevin roberts] #694636
05/10/17 2:31 am
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Magnetoman Offline OP

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Originally Posted by kevin roberts
that is a beautiful machine,
did you manage to scrounge any history of it's past 90 or so years?
It was despatched from the factory 13 December 1927 to C.J. Rouse Motorcycles, Kettering, England, and it found its way into my friend's garage in Dublin ~83 years later. Between those dates, ┬┐quien sabe? Actually, I also know the name of the guy who sold it to my friend but I don't know its history with him, or before him.

Someone easily could overlook a Black Ariel amongst brighter, more colorful bikes (as I did for five years in my friend's garage), but once noticed I think it's quite fetching.

Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #694692
05/10/17 3:43 pm
05/10/17 3:43 pm
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,107
Ottawa, Canada
gREgg-K Offline

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gREgg-K  Offline

BritBike Forum member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,107
Ottawa, Canada
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Originally Posted by kevin roberts
that is a beautiful machine,<SNIP>
<SNIP> but once noticed I think it's quite fetching.

Indeed, and I for one am glad that you fetched it!

.. Gregg


Spyder Integrated Technologies
Lucas, BTH, & Miller Magneto & Dynamo Restoration
SMITHS Chronometric Restoration
magneto@spyder-it.com
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: gREgg-K] #694703
05/10/17 5:48 pm
05/10/17 5:48 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,292
U.S.
Magnetoman Offline OP

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Magnetoman  Offline OP

BritBike Forum member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,292
U.S.
Originally Posted by gREgg-K
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
I think it's quite fetching.
I for one am glad that you fetched it!

And I'm glad it didn't fetch too high of a price.

Update: The Ariel now has a title and registration. I splurged on a classic vehicle plate ($25 one-time fee + $10/year extra), because I figured a bike that has survived 90 years has earned it. Getting it licensed so easily was actually a big relief because I was afraid I'd have to spend endless hours at the DMV since the bike isn't just from out of State, it's from out of Country.

p.s. the tracking number shows the zerc fittings are due to be delivered later today. If that works to clear (and grease) the exhaust rocker I'll try to fire it up this weekend and take it on a tour of the neighborhood.

Last edited by Magnetoman; 05/11/17 3:59 pm. Reason: update and p.s.
Re: Technical questions: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #695261
05/15/17 5:32 am
05/15/17 5:32 am
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,292
U.S.
Magnetoman Offline OP

BritBike Forum member
Magnetoman  Offline OP

BritBike Forum member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,292
U.S.
The BS zerc fittings arrived on Thursday, I got the appropriate grease for the rockers on Friday, and yesterday the grease gun arrived. I modified the gun and it nicely solved the issue of getting grease to the inlet rocker arm. I greased all the other points so at that point it only needed fuel.

This morning I took the Ariel and the DocZ rollers out of the garage, but when I added fuel the petcock leaked like the Titanic. It's of a slide type with no obvious way to rebuild it to stop the fuel from leaking out the sides. I have a box full of petcocks, but none have the necessary prehistoric thread to fit so I machined an adapter of sorts. I threaded a piece of 3/4" OD brass to go into the tank and with an OD on the other end to allow a piece of Tygon to connect the tank to the compression fitting on the pipe leading to the carburetor. A small Vise-grip on the Tygon served as the petcock.

Unfortunately, now that fuel was getting into the carburetor it started getting out of the carburetor. I tried swapping an O-ring for the leaking gasket at the base of the Type 6 AMAL but without success. I then found a fiber gasket of almost the right size in my drawer of AMAL gaskets. However, its OD was maybe 1/32" or 1/64" too large to fit in the carburetor so I had to grind it to size. Unfortunately, that didn't stop the leak, either. Since the gasoline was dripping directly onto the magneto I decided it best not to put the Ariel on the rollers.

At that point I drained the gasoline and put the bike back on the lift to await a gasket kit for the Type 6 AMAL. But, before calling it a day I machined another brass adapter to accept a nice brass petcock with a tapered plug. After lapping the valve I assembled it with EZTurn petcock lubricant so all I need now is that carburetor rebuild kit. At least, as far as I know...

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