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#691749 - 04/15/17 1:14 am Bushing for 66-2008  
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Jerry Roy Online content
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Jerry Roy  Online Content
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Denver CO
Is the bush in part # 66-2008 ( timing side out rigger plate) a standard bearing bronze, and can it be replaced without the benefit of line boring?
Is there a min and max clearance associated with it?
Mine seems to have excessive clearance, due to some wear on one side of the shaft.
Any insight is appreciated.

JR

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#691764 - 04/15/17 5:32 am Re: Bushing for 66-2008 [Re: Jerry Roy]  
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Kerry W Offline
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Kerry W  Offline
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Middle East,
Cant really answer the question with any authority, though it's not uncommon to see the bush removed, as the lack of correct alignment or misalignment of the shaft can cause the shaft to break...

There is a noice needle roller conversion out there..I bought one once, and had Phil Pearson build it into my engine, though I suspect he had produced the kit in the first place! (the kit amounted to a new outrigger plate and the bearing fitted to it.)


No generalisation is wholly true, not even this one.
Oliver Wendell Holmes
#691799 - 04/15/17 2:53 pm Re: Bushing for 66-2008 [Re: Kerry W]  
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Jerry Roy Online content
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Denver CO
Thanks for the reply, Kerry,

The part of my shaft that rides in the bushing has one part of the bearing surface noticeably worn, and when the main bearings indicate .0015 in runout, the end of the shaft that rides in the bushing indicates .0035 to .004 inch. So obviously, it has been running like that for a long time.

Now you have me wondering if I should leave it alone, or make a new bushing and try to hold the shaft Concentric with the bushing. I suppose I should put it together and see what the clearance between the gears is at apogee.

One thing or another, huh?

JR

#691825 - 04/15/17 7:21 pm Re: Bushing for 66-2008 [Re: Jerry Roy]  
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chaterlea25 Online content
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chaterlea25  Online Content
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Cork Ireland
Hi JR,
From your description it would seem that the crank and / or mainshaft is not running true
The part that runs in the bushing is part of the mainshaft pinion
I have machined a worn pinion true to its bore and made a new bush from PB1,
This was on a B31 rebuild, new mains and rebuilt crank
Attempting to "straighten" the spindle with a tighter fitting bush would not be a good idea

John

#691854 - 04/15/17 10:58 pm Re: Bushing for 66-2008 [Re: Jerry Roy]  
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Boomer Online content
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Orygone
IMHO, with the run out on the timing side crankshaft it has gotten loose in the tapered bore or the rivets have given way. Either means that you need to look at the root of the problem and mend a fix and bring the runout back within tolerance. A new bushing will be oblong in no time otherwise. The runout is circular, 360 degrees. The wear on the shaft is from no clearance, in fact interference from the bushing.



Bill B...


Boomer
#692184 - 04/18/17 2:40 pm Re: Bushing for 66-2008 [Re: Jerry Roy]  
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Jerry Roy Online content
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Denver CO
Thanks for the input guys.
From my perspective it looks like the answer to the problem, since the main bearing seats run true, the drive side shaft runs true, the flywheels run true, and the outer end of the timing side is the only part that doesn't, is to shim between the flywheels so that they are in effect one piece. Clamp them down to a solid table, make a pipe with holes bore to the diameter of the main shaft, the splined portion, and the oil spigot , and apply bending force to the shaft until the end spigot is centered.
Has any one done that, or is there another method that is more appropriate?

JR

#692235 - 04/18/17 8:46 pm Re: Bushing for 66-2008 [Re: Jerry Roy]  
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DBDBrian Online content
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Norfolk England
Jerry, I personally would not go down that route. If there is any doubt, the timing side shaft needs to be checked for truth as an individual item, with the crank apart.If found to be bent, it should ideally be replaced. I'm not saying it can't be straightened, but is it worth the risk and trouble.
Are you sure the the problem is not being caused by run out on the crank , a 0,0015 run out at the bearing would obviously be amplified along the length of the shaft.
Are you checking the crank between centres, or on the bearings ?
Another point too watch, is when the timing side outer nut is pulled up tight, it can on occasions pull the shaft off centre, Even with a crank which is running true, the quill need to be clocked after the nut is pulled up.
The best method is to manufacture a nut , which will pass through the outrigger bearing, it can then be all pulled up and clocked before fitting the outrigger plate.


Brian

Made In England
#692278 - 04/19/17 5:10 am Re: Bushing for 66-2008 [Re: Jerry Roy]  
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Boomer Online content
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Orygone
He says he has .0015 at the main bearing and .0035 to .004 at the end or at least near the end of the shaft at the bushing! I don't think the shaft is bent, it is out of true and the only way to straighten is to pull the crank out and true/replace the timing side shaft. I would suspect a loose rivet or more. In the past, Alpha used to sell replacement timing side shafts. The factory ones had an issue with the step between the main bearing and the pinion gear. A relief of the sharp angle by machining in a radius at this point would help alleviate this issue.

At a race at Westwood Canada one year, about 1987, a Gold Star racer had his bike just quit on him. When he pulled the timing cover he noticed that nothing rotated inside the timing chest when he turn the engine over. The timing side mainshaft had sheared at this step.


Bill B...


Boomer

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