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Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #696773
05/29/17 2:04 pm
05/29/17 2:04 pm
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 375
New Jersey
Keane Lucas Offline

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New Jersey
Originally Posted by semprini


If you look at the photo, the LH silencer is closer in than the RH causing the centre-stand foot to foul it (the silencer support bracket is not bent).



I have a 1969 A65.I had an issue with the center stand fouling the LH silencer.It happened when I replaced the original BSA headpipes,with a set from Armours.
Their pattern, primary side pipe, was straight,not kicking up past the primary cover.
Here are some pictures,(4), two on a dark background, from an eBay ad,showing the kick up,similar to my factory pipes LINK


1969 BSA A65T w/A70 engine
1970 Royal Enfield Interceptor S ll
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Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: gavin eisler] #697631
06/06/17 7:04 pm
06/06/17 7:04 pm
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Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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When it's on the road shortly, I'm taking it up to the dealer/seller and get his expanation for the brake rod, he's had several a65s so should know.


a
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #698324
06/13/17 12:18 pm
06/13/17 12:18 pm
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Posts: 3,743
Sydney Australia
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Been a long while since I played A 65 but that brake arm looks way too long to me .
AFAIK all BSA brake arms are interchangeable as they all have the same size square machined on them.
It might just be the angle but the anchor strap looks a little on the short side as well.
the brake cam sits vertical above the axel and the rod runs above the axle.
Me thinks the brake arm might just be a front one fitted to give more leverage to compensate for a short pedal which would have been fitted if as previously mentioned the bike had rearsets fitted.


Bike Beesa
Trevor
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: Keane Lucas] #698346
06/13/17 5:30 pm
06/13/17 5:30 pm
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,665
Elburn, Ill. USA
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Irish Swede Online content
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Armours strikes again!

Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: gavin eisler] #703106
07/28/17 1:14 pm
07/28/17 1:14 pm
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Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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Apologies for delay in replying. I think the frame-loop switch bracket needs to come off which will allow the correct rod alignment, and (as gavin suggests), a stock switch and striker, although I notice that stock switches are around £50!!

Engine running ok now, measured the comp. at 165 both pots. It's fitted with Mk 1 Boyer ignition which, I've found, needs at least 12.5-13v on the battery to start. New looking Wassel carbs, the nearside persists in flooding after tickling, despite microscopic cleaning and checking of the float components. ok after start up though.

Spitfire Mk4


a
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #703257
07/29/17 3:23 pm
07/29/17 3:23 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,847
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Re Carbs:

first thing is to check the float height. if this checks out. Make a small rig by mounting the float (say in vice by its drain plug) and a pipe with funel filled with fuel to the banjo end. Don't raise the funnel any higher than it would be had it been fitted to the bike with tank. (as fuel pressure will lift the float off its seat), if it stops the flow with a couple of mm from the top of the bowl then you can pretty much say that the float is working as it should and the issue could be the tickler is sticking on something.

(don't use water to test as it has a greater density than fuel)


beerchug
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #703307
07/30/17 8:50 am
07/30/17 8:50 am
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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I'll proceed with the your check. Have you any recommendations on a type of handlebar mirror for this bike?


a
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #703315
07/30/17 9:53 am
07/30/17 9:53 am
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,847
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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I use bar mounted mirrors, similar to what would have been used back in the day, they don't seem to vibrate any worse than anything else I have used but my motor is quite smooth.

Bar ended mirrors work well, but I don't like their asthetics or the fact your bars are suddenly a good inch plus wider on each end (makes it harder for getting around the garage) but each to their own.


beerchug
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #703722
08/02/17 9:27 pm
08/02/17 9:27 pm
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Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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I think the problem I have is a bent centre stand, that's why it's fouling the silencer. See the pics of both sides. http://imgur.com/r8Ut5PU http://imgur.com/MAXfq4r

I set the float bowls up on the bench athough I used white spirit instead of petrol, hope it didn't make much difference. As you can see, the levels are too low, perhaps the seats on the Wassells have been set too high? I re-adjusted brackets so the float was almost level (at the front) and the fuel level would be about 6mm below. http://imgur.com/WQ7GlVi

Last edited by semprini; 08/02/17 9:29 pm. Reason: typo

a
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #703733
08/02/17 10:47 pm
08/02/17 10:47 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,847
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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Found the correct fuel height here...

The correct fuel level for all Mark 1 Concentric carburetters is 0.21" plus or minus 0.040" below the top edge of the float bowl. Thus when the needle valve is being held shut by the tangs of the float, the level of the fuel will be between 0.17" to 0.24" (4.33mm to 6.35mm) from the top of the bowl.

The density of white spirit is 0.778, petrol is 0.71-0.77 and water is 1.00 g/cm3 so your pretty close with the white spirit. You might get a fraction more fuel height by using actual fuel but the difference may not be that great.

If you can move the float bowl seat (warm the bowl and using a drift (about 11mm) tap the bowl down till the float is at the right level. If it is well glued in you can bend the tangs but moving the seat is the better option.

The centre stand looks normal, but I need to check mine. Armours silencers are fatter than most. I've found the brituro silencers to be about the best available new. The right amount of back pressure and exhaust note.


beerchug
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: Allan Gill] #703776
08/03/17 8:08 am
08/03/17 8:08 am
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Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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Thank you for that. I think I'll test out the bike first and see how it runs, there's not a lot left of the season now and will have a closer measurement of the seats during the winter, assuming the carbs are operating ok for now.

The silencers are the originals. Some time in its history it's had a spill on the nearside which is why I suspect the stand might have been distorted. If I can't bend the footbar enough (in situ) to clear the silencer I think I'll remove it for closer examination and possibly straighten it in the vice if needed.


a
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #703794
08/03/17 12:25 pm
08/03/17 12:25 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,847
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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You may find that when at rest the stand doesn't touch the frame stop, I have a centre stand with the lug removed to create that clearance. So bending the arm may not help.


beerchug
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #703977
08/04/17 9:52 pm
08/04/17 9:52 pm
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Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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I had a good look today and it appears to be touching the stops, Spring removal proved too daunting so I sprung down the footbar a tad and it now clears the silencer.

Wheel alignment, with the aid of axle stands and nylon line seems ok, equal gaps at the front tyre and the adjuster bolts about equal.

So now to more mundane problems. In the past someone must have caught their plastic leggings against the exhaust pipe leaving a hardened black patch. rather than rubbing with solvol I wonder if there's anything that might remove it.

Back in '67/8 a friend had a gold Lightning like yours, he had those braced moto-cross bars on it. before the city bit of the Sheffield Parkway was built, entry was via Manor Lane and he had a habit of screwing it up to 100mph in third along there! Those were the days.


a
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #703983
08/04/17 10:13 pm
08/04/17 10:13 pm
Joined: May 2013
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Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Originally Posted by semprini
I had a good look today and it appears to be touching the stops, Spring removal proved too daunting so I sprung down the footbar a tad and it now clears the silencer.

Wheel alignment, with the aid of axle stands and nylon line seems ok, equal gaps at the front tyre and the adjuster bolts about equal.

So now to more mundane problems. In the past someone must have caught their plastic leggings against the exhaust pipe leaving a hardened black patch. rather than rubbing with solvol I wonder if there's anything that might remove it.

Back in '67/8 a friend had a gold Lightning like yours, he had those braced moto-cross bars on it. before the city bit of the Sheffield Parkway was built, entry was via Manor Lane and he had a habit of screwing it up to 100mph in third along there! Those were the days.



There's very few roads you can do that on now. Sounds like he had a 65' bike for it to be gold.

The black patch you mention, I did that very thing on my 400/4, I'm resulting into replaceing the silencer because of it


beerchug
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #704025
08/05/17 8:53 am
08/05/17 8:53 am
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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Well well, I also had, in '76, a 400/4! Fitted it with Dunlop TT100 tyres and it handled beautifully, apart from giving it a tendency to weave above 75mph (then). Sold it for a CX500.


a
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #704185
08/07/17 3:01 am
08/07/17 3:01 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,471
Owego, NY, USA
Mark Z Offline
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Originally Posted by semprini
Apologies for delay in replying. I think the frame-loop switch bracket needs to come off which will allow the correct rod alignment, and (as gavin suggests), a stock switch and striker, although I notice that stock switches are around £50!!
Spitfire Mk4


Unless you're a stickler for originality, they make a universal brake switch that clamps to the passenger peg loop, and has a spring going forward that hooks into the original bracket that attaches to the brake pedal and also hits the stop post, and which has a hole in the end of it. (Sorry, no pics until I have time to get with a new picture Hosting site.) I've had one of these universal switches on my A65 for longer than I can remember, and it has never failed. The side panel covers most of it nicely.

Oh... I needed a little more length on the spring to reach the brake pedal bracket; this was accomplished with a snap-swivel (a fishing item, available in various sizes at any bait and tackle shop).


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #704255
08/07/17 9:15 pm
08/07/17 9:15 pm
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Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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D'yer know, this crossed my mind a day or so ago, but you have now jogged my memory about the switch. I might have some swivels somewhere from my sea angling days.

The bracket is very neat, like a factory fitment, pity its in the wrong place. http://imgur.com/a/9p533


a
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #704282
08/08/17 3:39 am
08/08/17 3:39 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,471
Owego, NY, USA
Mark Z Offline
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Ok, my A65 doesn't have that flat lug on the frame where your switch mounts, nor does any A65 frame that I've seen. Well that's ok, it makes a nice mount for the switch, but:

You don't have the bracket that I'm talking about. I think you might have called it a "striker". It mounts to the two front holes in the brake pedal, and extends up to contact a stop post which fits into a hole in the frame (which you probably also don't have). The stop post has a threaded stud through it with a locknut, to adjust the brake pedal height. The "striker" also has a hole at the very top, above the stop post. This is where my spring (via the snap swivel) hooks. Your spring is attached directly to the brake pedal.

Here's the thing: Without that "striker" and stop post, the footrest then serves as the stop for the brake pedal. That kind of works, but there's no adjustment and it makes the brake pedal sit rather high in relation to the footrest.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #704296
08/08/17 8:15 am
08/08/17 8:15 am
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Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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Yes Mark, I know which lever you meant, it's part no. 68-7052 which I'll have to buy (or make) one.

https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/bsa/bsa/a50-a-a65/1968/category/297-swinging-arm

Just had a look and there is a 5/16" hole just above the s/arm shaft. Thanks for pointing out the adjuster arangement.


a
Re: BSA A50/65 Frame Alignment [Re: semprini] #704863
08/13/17 1:27 pm
08/13/17 1:27 pm
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Posts: 40
Sheffield UK
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semprini Offline OP
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Have sorted the brake rod problem by removing the bracket, which a previous poster said was for rear-sets, and fitted a universal switch. It'll do for this season anyway.

https://imgur.com/a/5APfN


Last edited by semprini; 09/13/17 2:15 pm.

a
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