Noticed that there are some clutch slave/actuators available on eBay that on measuring look like they could be used in the T160, just wondering has anyone done this and did it improve the feel/effort, as the std clutch is quite heavy.
It shouldn't be - all my triples, I can pull the clutch lever with one finger at least a few times for demonstration purposes; two fingers and I can pull the levers all day (I used to live in pre-M25 London and cross north-west to south-east and return regularly). I also have a T100 and none of my triples' clutches are noticeably "heavier" than the twin's clutch.
Usual culprits for a "heavy" triple clutch are the cable (I work on - off the bike - after cleaning and lubing, the inner should slide through the outer under its own weight, or I replace it) and/or worn handlebar lever pivot. Or a p.o. might've installed a 'heavier' spring to 'cure' clutch slip.
There has been much recent discussion on the TOL forum about "plate thickness", "basket heights", yadda, yadda; if you'd like some light Christmas reading while Strictly Mincing or whatever is on, try typing "clutch" into the TOL Advanced Search and wading through the returned links ...
The triple clutch can be a problem item, but ime much can be done before hydraulics are the 'solution'.
One result with "Hydraulic Clutch" in the content, by yourself, the cable is reasonable but not perfect, basic adjustment seems fine, will have a look in the manual for anything i have missed, However the question still stands, i would like to hear from anyone who may have used the eBay type slave in a conversion?
Not as easy as it looks but I have seen one on a Triumph Cub which works very well but there is not a lot left on the cub you would recognise as being cub like
Back to the hydraulic clutch. Spent some time shortening the slave cylinder thread to ensure it's not up against the rear isolastic tube. Shortened the rod and re-threaded it (2mm x 0.4mm) slimmed down the screw on nipple to fit the fork in the gearbox. Struggled to bleed the system as I had to undo the banjo screw to align the pipe. Finally I just couldn't get enough travel on the rod to properly release the clutch, so gave up. I may re-visit this with a larger master cylinder from a Honda to match the brake lever, or try and get more movement out of the existing setup by more meticulous bleeding.
I have not tried that particular type. I make these:
The hydraulics eliminates the cable friction. Mine also automatically adjusts for clutch disc wear. I had someone ask for a master using the T160/T140 master brake mount and lever which requires a different cylinder bore. I am testing this one:
The hydraulics are not going to fix other problems such as the pressure plate binding.
Update for this one too, i have fitted one of these Chinese cheapys, and it appears to work fine, there is enough movement to disengage the clutch OK, as per the original cable/leaver combination, did need to find a 19mm master cylinder in order to shift enough fluid, and its still a bit heavy, but then i do still have a clutch problem, i am suspecting the plate maybe warped.