On the road they are hard to come by at NAPA or Autozone
I've never had one go wrong on the road, although I've never run 'em past the manual-recommended 10,000 miles. But, if one did go wrong and you weren't carrying spares, nothing to stop you replacing it with whatever you can "come by at NAPA or Autozone". Mixed plug types aren't an issue as long as the heat range is correct.
I do agree with using the parts, oil, tires, etc that are Right for the Bike and not just "whatever is available at Pep Boys" or wherever.
In this US of A, you can get ANYTHING of ANY specification sent to your front door within a day or two of when you order it. In the (cheapskate) Moto Guzzi world, people are always writing to the list saying something like "I can't get the recommended ENI 10W60 API-rated oil to put in my $15,000 motorcycle at my local auto store. Can't I just use the 20W50 that the Autozone sells?" Invariably, someone will say "Sure, that's what I do and the bike has lasted 20,000 miles so it must be OK."
I would think that spark plugs are the same. Even if you're going across the country or around the world, a spare set of the correct heat-and-length plugs is the easiest thing in the world to carry in the tool kit or on a frame clip (like the old Kawasaki H-series).
Same with tires, tubes, every wear part. Even if you're broken down on the side of the road, you can have a set of wheel bearings or a new valve in your hand by the next morning, every time. It's the part of this new world that very few people take advantage of .... !
Actually Autozone quit selling the VR-1 20w50 that I use in all the BSAs. Bit miffed about that. Luckily the Valvolene Motorcycle 20w50 has almost the same amount of zddp as the VR-1. Plus Oreilly and NAPA still have VR-1 so all is not lost.
Seems like when you compare the plug charts that NGK and Champion might be a 1/2 step off in heat range. A Champion N3 appears to fit in between an NGK 8 and NGK 7. Those being slightly cooler and hotter respectively. This causes confusion when you reference a plug chart by year for a given bike as you may see either of the NGK's listed. On a street driven bike it probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference but you may be able to fine tune for your bike. Especially true if you are doing high speed riding or high temps or are dealing with pinging, dropping down to an NGK 8 might help.
Now if the weather would just break, so that I might find my solace in the hills listening to throttle close open close clutch out in out the rumble sighs before the shift and then alive scrubbing tires. And - heat - them - up! Make 'em sticky sticky on Georgia 180 Up Over Wolf Pen Gap before the down hill into the hairpin dragging the down shift front and rear brake released into a lean over the edge of my boot and knee gently touch the road and then stand up again as if saved by opening AMALs. I must make amends, where I dropped the Firebird, near the dam repeated rights and lefts tight among trees. fleeting seconds' peace on a straight daring To Look across open space the rising road below, before the promise of spring gives way to thunderous summer heat and a riot of leaves and riders and rain hide the valleys and ravines of north Georgia for another four months.
When I test road the bike the oil pressure light came on. But I didn't know what the dpo put in the bike. After RF put the right oil in and changed the filter, I have not seen the oil pressure light on since. And I have been out in traffic and ridden the bike hard. But then again it idles soooooo much better now. As for actual numbers, that I don't have. The last time I did this it was the Thunderbolt. I put marvel mystery oil in and the oil,pressure light was on at idle, prolly before. So I was worried I had loosed all those years of internal dirt and varnish on unsuspecting internal bits. In truth my worries were unfounded. When the crank came out the timing side crank bearing was "triangular" according to Beno. It was freakin worn out! Marvel mystery oil and internal dirt and varnish didn't cause that much wear. The THunderbolt has since gone 40,000 miles on that rebuild without oil pressure complaints. But I do wonder. So this time around I am being gentile with the Rocket 3 and not trying too much too soon. Sure it has had an internal filter all its life that the THunderbolt could not even dream of. But there is no sense tickling the dangerous animals.
It runs, and it runs well. I cannot wait to get home to ride it. To test it farther and farther from home, north as the previous post suggests - my dreams are of two lane black top with overhanging trees and the occasional field in view and to ride to Blowing Rock in May by way of Two Wheels of Suches, The Ironhorse, the Blue Ridge Motorcyle campground and Windy's. There will be of course and extended excursion on the Blue Ridge Parkway, where I will give thanks to God for his beautiful world in which I get to play in on Supra cool bikes that almost nobody else gets to ride. God bless Britbike.com. Amen.
(You know I didn't know I'd like that free range writing two posts back. But after a day or so I think I still do. 😎)
Just curious. The shop manual says should have 75-80 psi on a hot engine at 3000 rpm. I've got a gauge on my 74 Trident and I'm getting a steady 60 psi at 55 mph (around 3000, my tach is off). Assuming 75-80 on a new or rebuilt engine what would you expect on an engine with some wear and what limit would you consider a rebuild. My understanding is that with the plain bearings supporting the crank that the triples need more oil pressure than a twin.
When I test road the bike the oil pressure light came on. After RF put the right oil in and changed the filter, I have not seen the oil pressure light on since.
No offence to Richard but, if he didn't check the pressure with a gauge, I would - after all, it'd be silly if you "have not seen the oil pressure light on since" because the bulb blew? Also, the switch turns the light on at about 7 psi, even tickover pressure should be about 25 psi. So the light coming on isn't an 'oil pressure warning', it says, "Hah! Your engine's donald!"
If you don't want an o.p. gauge mounted permanently, in the US maybe look at one of Triples Rule "Solo Mount" pressure gauge kits? Afaik, same as the other suppliers of o.p. gauges for triples, Pat (Brown) supplies a banjo and bolt to fit in place of one of the centre main bearing oilway plugs (1/2"AF bolt heads in the front of the centre crankcase section, between the frame tubes).
Originally Posted by htown
shop manual says should have 75-80 psi on a hot engine at 3000 rpm. I'm getting a steady 60 psi at 55 mph what limit would you consider a rebuild.
I had this dilemma when I saw 60 psi on my allegedly 'rebuilt' T150 after only 500 miles. Some triple experts said, "rebuild it again"; others said, "leave it unless it drops any lower". It dropped lower soon after so that sorted that dilemma.
Originally Posted by htown
My understanding is that with the plain bearings supporting the crank that the triples need more oil pressure than a twin.
And they should get the additional oil pressure from the pump.
Still I'm with Stuart about necessity of checking this oil pressure in a near future. It's much cheaper to take your engine apart and repair it ( for example changing the shells and polishing the crank only ) then trying to do the same after some catastrophic failure.