On the road they are hard to come by at NAPA or Autozone
I've never had one go wrong on the road, although I've never run 'em past the manual-recommended 10,000 miles. But, if one did go wrong and you weren't carrying spares, nothing to stop you replacing it with whatever you can "come by at NAPA or Autozone". Mixed plug types aren't an issue as long as the heat range is correct.
I do agree with using the parts, oil, tires, etc that are Right for the Bike and not just "whatever is available at Pep Boys" or wherever.
In this US of A, you can get ANYTHING of ANY specification sent to your front door within a day or two of when you order it. In the (cheapskate) Moto Guzzi world, people are always writing to the list saying something like "I can't get the recommended ENI 10W60 API-rated oil to put in my $15,000 motorcycle at my local auto store. Can't I just use the 20W50 that the Autozone sells?" Invariably, someone will say "Sure, that's what I do and the bike has lasted 20,000 miles so it must be OK."
I would think that spark plugs are the same. Even if you're going across the country or around the world, a spare set of the correct heat-and-length plugs is the easiest thing in the world to carry in the tool kit or on a frame clip (like the old Kawasaki H-series).
Same with tires, tubes, every wear part. Even if you're broken down on the side of the road, you can have a set of wheel bearings or a new valve in your hand by the next morning, every time. It's the part of this new world that very few people take advantage of .... !
Actually Autozone quit selling the VR-1 20w50 that I use in all the BSAs. Bit miffed about that. Luckily the Valvolene Motorcycle 20w50 has almost the same amount of zddp as the VR-1. Plus Oreilly and NAPA still have VR-1 so all is not lost.
Seems like when you compare the plug charts that NGK and Champion might be a 1/2 step off in heat range. A Champion N3 appears to fit in between an NGK 8 and NGK 7. Those being slightly cooler and hotter respectively. This causes confusion when you reference a plug chart by year for a given bike as you may see either of the NGK's listed. On a street driven bike it probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference but you may be able to fine tune for your bike. Especially true if you are doing high speed riding or high temps or are dealing with pinging, dropping down to an NGK 8 might help.
Now if the weather would just break, so that I might find my solace in the hills listening to throttle close open close clutch out in out the rumble sighs before the shift and then alive scrubbing tires. And - heat - them - up! Make 'em sticky sticky on Georgia 180 Up Over Wolf Pen Gap before the down hill into the hairpin dragging the down shift front and rear brake released into a lean over the edge of my boot and knee gently touch the road and then stand up again as if saved by opening AMALs. I must make amends, where I dropped the Firebird, near the dam repeated rights and lefts tight among trees. fleeting seconds' peace on a straight daring To Look across open space the rising road below, before the promise of spring gives way to thunderous summer heat and a riot of leaves and riders and rain hide the valleys and ravines of north Georgia for another four months.
When I test road the bike the oil pressure light came on. But I didn't know what the dpo put in the bike. After RF put the right oil in and changed the filter, I have not seen the oil pressure light on since. And I have been out in traffic and ridden the bike hard. But then again it idles soooooo much better now. As for actual numbers, that I don't have. The last time I did this it was the Thunderbolt. I put marvel mystery oil in and the oil,pressure light was on at idle, prolly before. So I was worried I had loosed all those years of internal dirt and varnish on unsuspecting internal bits. In truth my worries were unfounded. When the crank came out the timing side crank bearing was "triangular" according to Beno. It was freakin worn out! Marvel mystery oil and internal dirt and varnish didn't cause that much wear. The THunderbolt has since gone 40,000 miles on that rebuild without oil pressure complaints. But I do wonder. So this time around I am being gentile with the Rocket 3 and not trying too much too soon. Sure it has had an internal filter all its life that the THunderbolt could not even dream of. But there is no sense tickling the dangerous animals.
It runs, and it runs well. I cannot wait to get home to ride it. To test it farther and farther from home, north as the previous post suggests - my dreams are of two lane black top with overhanging trees and the occasional field in view and to ride to Blowing Rock in May by way of Two Wheels of Suches, The Ironhorse, the Blue Ridge Motorcyle campground and Windy's. There will be of course and extended excursion on the Blue Ridge Parkway, where I will give thanks to God for his beautiful world in which I get to play in on Supra cool bikes that almost nobody else gets to ride. God bless Britbike.com. Amen.
(You know I didn't know I'd like that free range writing two posts back. But after a day or so I think I still do. 😎)
Just curious. The shop manual says should have 75-80 psi on a hot engine at 3000 rpm. I've got a gauge on my 74 Trident and I'm getting a steady 60 psi at 55 mph (around 3000, my tach is off). Assuming 75-80 on a new or rebuilt engine what would you expect on an engine with some wear and what limit would you consider a rebuild. My understanding is that with the plain bearings supporting the crank that the triples need more oil pressure than a twin.
When I test road the bike the oil pressure light came on. After RF put the right oil in and changed the filter, I have not seen the oil pressure light on since.
No offence to Richard but, if he didn't check the pressure with a gauge, I would - after all, it'd be silly if you "have not seen the oil pressure light on since" because the bulb blew? Also, the switch turns the light on at about 7 psi, even tickover pressure should be about 25 psi. So the light coming on isn't an 'oil pressure warning', it says, "Hah! Your engine's donald!"
If you don't want an o.p. gauge mounted permanently, in the US maybe look at one of Triples Rule "Solo Mount" pressure gauge kits? Afaik, same as the other suppliers of o.p. gauges for triples, Pat (Brown) supplies a banjo and bolt to fit in place of one of the centre main bearing oilway plugs (1/2"AF bolt heads in the front of the centre crankcase section, between the frame tubes).
Originally Posted by htown
shop manual says should have 75-80 psi on a hot engine at 3000 rpm. I'm getting a steady 60 psi at 55 mph what limit would you consider a rebuild.
I had this dilemma when I saw 60 psi on my allegedly 'rebuilt' T150 after only 500 miles. Some triple experts said, "rebuild it again"; others said, "leave it unless it drops any lower". It dropped lower soon after so that sorted that dilemma.
Originally Posted by htown
My understanding is that with the plain bearings supporting the crank that the triples need more oil pressure than a twin.
And they should get the additional oil pressure from the pump.
Still I'm with Stuart about necessity of checking this oil pressure in a near future. It's much cheaper to take your engine apart and repair it ( for example changing the shells and polishing the crank only ) then trying to do the same after some catastrophic failure.
Spent a good portion of the afternoon connecting the centerstand bits. The coupler between the two pivot bolts came loose and disappeared! Thank goodness Baxter had another. Good and tight tonight.
Spent the rest of the afternoon connecting up the Bulbslast forever LED board in the tail light and putting the aft wire harness back where it was supposed to go (inside the fender). The DPO had an oversized 4.00-19 rear K70 on the bike and you can see where it was rubbing inside the fender. Probably tore up the harness at one point. I don't think this is a possibility with the Avon 100/90V19 on the back. I also got some extra LEDs from Paul Geoff that come on when the brakes come on. They are down the bottom of the license plate - nice and bright.
Also learned to properly route the wiring harness up around the steering head on the RH side so it doesn't cause the tank to vibrate against the frame on the LH side. Hose shims in place to make sure it doesn't.
Did a test ride out on the highway tonight. The clutch still slips under heavy load but is probably good enough for a trip to North Georgia this week. I will have it rebuilt at Triple Tech in California. He can lighten and balance as well. I can feel the inertia pushing me forward entering corners. It takes some getting used to. Losing a couple of pounds of rotating mass is probably a good thing.
If Beno is around tomorrow afternoon I'll connect up a oil pressure gage oh and replace the side stand spring which is hanging on by half a loop.
Semper=Did you already take your ride to North Georgia? Im up in Hiawassee and looking for an excuse to make a run over to Suchess. Although my T160 is down in Florida I have my Guzzi LeMans to ride up here.
bodine031- Im over in Clearwater. I make it to the east coast occasionally. I rode my Aprilia over to the Dania Beach Bike Fest last year. Rode my LeMans over to the Guzzi gathering down in Melborne, and did the Fireball 200 Vintage Reliability Ride from Daytona to Hernando Beach on my T160 last year. Most of the time I just ride up to the big Hess/Speedway on SR50/I75 near Brooksville. The T160 really likes the back roads up there.
Lived in Istachatta from 1980- 1998 know all the secret back roads and was a Papa Joes early pizza guy when his store was the size of a closet on the left end of the plaza. You know Sleepy Hollow is back, River Ratz in Nobleton & Shamrocks in Floral City are good and bike friendly. Melbourne MG Rally who you Gator & Dano!! My wife's T-160 came from Hernando Beach, Uncle Dave @ Tri-County Cycle on Hwy 98 just north of B'Ville told me about it in 1981!! Nope no reason for Tampa (big puckhead Lightning fan) or anything to do with Pinellas County. Tried to get to Dime City Cycles grand opening a few years ago traffic was at a dead stop just east of Dale Mabry on I-4 rode the down the shoulder got off then back on going east got on I-75 went to visit a friend in Zephyrhills. I'm 4 miles east of I-95 off Hwy 192 if you know Dano I live 4 houses away.
You bastard!!!! My favorite ride down(348)from 180 turn around on 75 then back up over to TWO Suches for lunch then up 60 and cut back over to Bald Mountain Campground BITBR Rally. How you liking the R3?? Different cup of tea A !!!
Love the R3. New clutch from TripleTech is in (thank you Richard). I may go camp at TWOs of Suches this Sunday as I will be in Jasper singing with the Atlanta Schola. Drove home from Benos in heavy rain. The bike didn't skip a beat. Buying the oil pressure gage next.
Glad you love it. Triples are really so much fun when they get squared away!! You are in a great riding area for that bike, they love to gallop in fast sweepers!! Now that the clutch disc sticks it goes pretty good for an old jalopy doesn't It !!!! At Daytona in 1970 the last year the run for the pole was on the super speedway Romero grabbed the pole and 1000 $$ bonus at 157 + mph and trap speed over 165 and at Daytona 1971 Triples on the box in all 3 spots!!!!