I have not made provision for adjustment of the 3/8" chain, If it needs it I will. As for the engine spitting back, the starter drive has the engine shock absorber between it and the crank. The starting procedure will involve spinning the engine up with the valve lifter.
I remember when they came out, no one was making anything at the time, the wreckers still had cool Japanese drums..and the Manxes and G50s were just starting to be replicated slowly slowly, part by part.
They are charging a pretty nice price, I was just looking at the Molnar Manx brakes..and in Magnesium the last Manx brake, the 4LS is over 2k pounds!!...eek! I actually had both the Manx 2LS and 4 LS...the 2LS was a good brake, many a Manx still has them, pull hard: stop fast.
The Manx 4LS however:..pull hard-'HOLY CARP!!!...that could have gone wrong!'..just the thing for 120mph stoppies maybe.
Then I also saw that Phil Pearson lists a 2LS plate for the 190mm GS front brake!!!...
Eddie Dow used to sell a 2LS plate for the 190mm brake, he called it the Duetto.
I can't say for sure they also fit the !-5/8" and very late 1-3/4" single sided BSA A and B series front brakes..worth an email to Phil Pearson, he hasn't answered yet (since I emailed him 20 minutes ago, haha)
I think the Pearson 2LS 190mm front brake complete was about the same as the Robinson brake price wise, and probably several pounds heavier. If I recall the Robinson was the brake used on the very first G50 replicas.
There was also a 4LS plate to fit the Norton drums.
Yesterday evening I spent a couple of hours with a DTI, A degree disc and a pen and paper. I have timed the cams to BSA 350 gold star figures:- 100 Deg inlet and 102.5 Deg exhaust. This was so easy to do with the head off and the DTI directly on the tappets. While I had the degree disc on I set the static ignition timing to 38 Deg. I just need to make a peg spanner to tighten the locking rings on the ABSAF vernier cams
I got my wheels back from the wheel builder. (Jeff at KB Wheels). He did a great job as usual, Akront flangeless alloy rims WM2 x 19 front WM3 x 19 rear, stainless butted spokes and stainless nipples. However the rear needed re-building again, the offset was copied off the old wheel (which was wrong). The rim needed moving 7mm to the left so another 20 spokes needed making. The wheels are now in shod with Avon AM26 325 X 19 front 100/90 x 19 rear
Andy .. You've mentioned your vernier cams and that brings to mind an issue I had with one of my Phil Pearson vernier cams a few years ago. As you've mentioned after setting the cam timing I snugged up the locking nut on the cams. All seemed ok but then I noticed one of the cam was still loose. Yikes. The threads had 'bottomed' before the assembly was tightened. I bit of work with a file fixed it up and averted a potential disaster.
BTW .. After installing the vernier cams I had something new to fiddle with. aargh. I made a large steel plate to bolt to the top of the pushrod tunnel to support the magnetic base dial indicator. This allowed me to check and set cam timing off the rocker arms without disassembling the engine. After a lot of fiddling around I was able to discover the Goldie engineers knew more about cams then myself. heh. I ended up setting the cams to the factory 42 and 46 specs for best performance running up my 'dyno hill'.
Something I've long time wondered about is the different cam timing between the 350 and 500 GSs. I and others have tried the 350 GS combo of the 10 degree advance pinion with a 1891 exhaust cam. But it has always been unsuccessful power band wise. Why? Considering both the 350 and 500 engines have the same stroke it would seem they would like the same cam timing.
But .. a story for you. A few years ago a GSr in OZ complained his 350 wasn't running well and he wanted a 1891 exhaust cam and 10 degree advance pinion vs his 42 and 46 setup. So we made a deal and I sent him the pieces he wanted. He later reported back that his 350 was now running sweet. hmmm.
Dave NV. I would think that it is to do with the bore/stroke ratio of the two engines. The 500 with it's 85:88 bore stroke ratio is almost a 'square' engine where as the 71:88 ratio of the 350 makes it more of a long stroke engine. I am not an engineer but I am sure the flow through the ports would not be the same. As you change the ratio, the characteristics of the engine would certainly change.
Without frequent roadside repairs there is no fun in riding!
I manages a little work on the B31 this week. Yesterday I painted the head with PJ1 black. Today I installed the valves and springs, fitted the rockers and temporarily fitted the head on the engine. I made a set of "hybrid" push rods, The bottom collars are Gold Star to mate up with the Goldie cam followers. The top collars are B31 to mate up with the B31 rockers. The rods themselves are 10mm aluminium rod from B&Q turned down to a touch under 3/8" at the ends, this was so I could pull the collars off easily to adjust the rod length. After the correct length is determined I will make the rods out of 3/8" 6061-T6 alloy.
The "To do" list is getting smaller Fit rocker and tappet covers Fit timing cover Make the slotted mag nut for tacho drive. I've ordered a M8 x 1mm tap today Fit head steady Assemble front forks when slider comes back from powder coaters Make front brake cables Rocker oil feed Crankcase breather All fluids, I will be using semi or full synth 20/50 in the engine, Silkoline light gear oil in gearbox and ATF in the clutch case Then after strobe timing fit clutch cover
Belt and braces, I fitted a tab washer and loctite to the clutch nut, the same will be done on the crank shock absorber nut.
I am expecting my 4 gallon alloy tank from Holtworks very soon
According to the parts list the rocker feed banjo bolts have different sized holes, mine are both the same. What are the correct hole sizes?
T'other day I went to see long time gold star racing legend John Cronshaw. I bought a nikasil DBD34 barrel off him. It will be going on the engine next winter, after I have achieved 100MPH from the iron engine
I've just about had it up to here with the front forks!! I have a set of Kommando's cartridge dampers, I bought a pair of A65 bottoms with the holes in the bottom to secure the dampers. After I got them back from the powder coaters I realised that theRH bottom had been badly bored at some point and had about 2mm of clearance between the slider and bushes, it was also like a ploughed field. I saw another RH bottom on eBay so I hit buy it now, then I realised it was in USA and there was a stack of postage charge. Oh well it will be ok I thought, then another hefty charge for import duty F*!!k. I tested the fit of the bushes and it felt ok so off to the powder coaters it went last week. This evening I decided to assemble the LH leg, the fork bottom must have been twatted hard at some point at it jams half way GRRRRRRRR
On the fork lower the first check is to see if its bent or a narrowing. Leave the top bush out and put the stanchion with the bottom bush into the lower and see if it reaches the bottom, if it does then the lower is bent, if it jams then it needs boring out in some way, I rum a 38mm reamer down Triumph lowers, need a 37.2mm reamer to do a BSA. There is possibly another route, I will post details later with pics.