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#667579 - 09/14/16 3:11 pm Crank shaft spacer  
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 921
limeyrider Offline
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limeyrider  Offline
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Posts: 921
gastonia .. NC
Following the posting from Pat regarding crank end float, I tightened the cush drive nut to 165 ft/lb expecting the existing .020" end float to be taken up ... not so, I still have .010" end float !.
As I have the engine half stripped whilst fixing the piston / head issue,I decided to take the bottom half down to inspect the innards.
The crank spacer washer ..Pt. # 65-1874 has a recess on the wider of the two faces ...it looks like it was machined to locate on the bearing,but now I'm suspecting that there is where my excess end float is coming from the "recess" is .010" deep.
Question is ... should that spacer have two flat and parallel faces ?, what is the proper thickness of the washer ...mine measures .178" across the parallel faces.

Thank you for comments and advice./

James.

BSA Gold Star eBay items

BSA Gold Star forum This board is dedicated to BSA Gold Star motorcycles.

#667590 - 09/14/16 4:46 pm Re: Crank shaft spacer [Re: limeyrider]  
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 276
DBDBrian Online content
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DBDBrian  Online Content
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 276
Norfolk England
Hi James, the spacer 65-1874 should be flat on both faces. You have a classic case of the the engine being run with the drive side nut loose. I think I have a 65-1874 I can check for size

Also spacer 65-1396 the one between the drive side bearings may show the same wear pattern.
65-1369 controls the position of the crank in the cases, and needs the be the right width too put the con-rod on the centre line, with the drive side nut tight. I usually make one as required.
The free end float needs to be checked with the drive side nut loose .
When the nut is tight there should be no end float, if a few thou is detectably, it's most likely the axial clearance of the bearing, if there is a large amount present , it would indicate the drive side ball race is loose in the case.


Brian

Made In England
#667592 - 09/14/16 5:37 pm Re: Crank shaft spacer [Re: DBDBrian]  
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limeyrider Offline
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limeyrider  Offline
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Posts: 921
gastonia .. NC
Hi Brian .. thanks for the info., the condition of the motor when I got this project indicated a loose cush drive nut ..the timing side main shaft had pushed up a bump on the outside of the timing cover,and now the condition of the spacer washer confirms it.
The cush drive spacer 65-2528 has a ridged face .
The spacer 65-1396 looks ok ... polished faces only.

Thanks again,

James.

#667594 - 09/14/16 6:03 pm Re: Crank shaft spacer [Re: limeyrider]  
Joined: Jan 2013
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geordie Offline
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geordie  Offline
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Posts: 185
Blue Mountains, Sydney Austral...
Are those spacers made out of anything special or just mild steel ?


58 goldstar
74 commando
70 Thunderbolt
81 Darmah
#667596 - 09/14/16 6:11 pm Re: Crank shaft spacer [Re: geordie]  
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 362
chaterlea25 Online content
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chaterlea25  Online Content
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 362
Cork Ireland
Hi,
Quote:
Are those spacers made out of anything special or just mild steel ?


Here's a link to upgraded spacers and the steel spec

http://www.eBay.co.uk/itm/BSA-GOLD-STAR-ENGINE-SPACERS-/172341212884?hash=item28205636d4gOM0AAOxyUgtTMwQd


John

#667693 - 09/15/16 3:46 pm Re: Crank shaft spacer [Re: limeyrider]  
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 276
DBDBrian Online content
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DBDBrian  Online Content
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 276
Norfolk England
James I have checked two 65-1874 spacers, 0.178 and 0.177. This would indicate yours is on size, strange yours has a wear lip. 65-1396 and 65-2528 are usually the one's to show wear if the nut has been loose.
Did you engine have the lipped timing side bearing, as this should have prevented the shaft moving into the timing cover. If you do not have a lipped bearing fitted, you will get a false reading when checking the free end float.
Regarding the end float when the drive side nut is tight, when the shock absorber sleeve is fitted, and all the spacers are in place, but not the sprocket and spring.
Are the splines on the shaft inside the end of the sleeve, so the nut face only makes contact with the sleeve end.
There is no need to pull the nut up to 165 ft/lbs for the check, hand tight should be sufficient if everything is ok. Did you check the ball race was tight in the case.

I use EN24T for the spacers, but I would think this more than sufficient, as the originals are not hard, and when everything is tight, they are only under a compression load.


Brian

Made In England
#667701 - 09/15/16 4:45 pm Re: Crank shaft spacer [Re: DBDBrian]  
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 921
limeyrider Offline
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limeyrider  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 921
gastonia .. NC
Hi Brian ....thanks for the follow up,I have enclosed a photo of the 65-1874 bearing spacer and also the 65-2528 cush drive spacer, you can clearly see the wear pattern on both pieces . I'm pretty sure that the bearing that was in the motor was an original BSA bearing, I have since replaced the bearings.The timing side case had damage to the area directly under the bearing ..a small piece was broken out ..so considerable force had been in play ... the crank possibly hammering ?.
The PO claims no knowledge of loose cush drive nut ...but it is obvious now that that was the case.
The ball race is tight in the case.


Photo.....

Sorry if the photo is a bit fuzzy.

Thanks again,

James.

#667710 - 09/15/16 5:48 pm Re: Crank shaft spacer [Re: limeyrider]  
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 276
DBDBrian Online content
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DBDBrian  Online Content
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 276
Norfolk England
Hi James, I take it the wear on 1874 is minus of the 0.178 figure, which would effect the crank position in the case. The width of 2528, it looks to be very worn, would effect the primary chain alignment.


Brian

Made In England
#667716 - 09/15/16 7:00 pm Re: Crank shaft spacer [Re: DBDBrian]  
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 921
limeyrider Offline
BritBike Forum member
limeyrider  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 921
gastonia .. NC
Hi Brian ... yes, the drop off on a dial indicator shows the groove to be .010" deep,so effectively the thickness would be .168" instead of the correct .178".... quite a lot of misalignment.
I also had to make up a shim to get the primary chain aligned, hopefully when new parts are fitted everything will fall into place.

Thanks.

James.


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