Could someone explain please why la -y does not relate to 67 as indicated by bsa docs within uk?
The BSA owners club is UK focused and does not worry about what happened in the US despite the majority of BSA's output going to the US.
There is a really long thread on this board which explains more but can't find it. In short if it has a -Y but a 67 number but has 70 parts its a 70. There may have been a 1000 67 A65's that were made and had to be re-exported but there is more to the story than the BSAOC has on their website.
Just to confuse matters more there are 70 bikes stamped with a Y not -Y but that is a reference to extended warranty.
bought an unregistered lightning USA which is virtually identical to Kev's. It has matching numbers a65la10997 y. I'd like to know what year it is. The us title says 1970 Contributors to this thread suggest la65 -y relate to 1970 Could someone explain please why la -y does not relate to 67
various clues on the bike indicate its later than 67 : 2 screws on metal tank badge; twin leading front brake; bsa 'watermark' on engine numbers tag.
Are the engine numbers and "bsa 'watermark'" stamped into a 'pad' raised above the surrounding crankcase metal? Are the nuts holding down the barrel base to the crankcase 12-point rather than normal 6-point, does a 1/2"AF 12-point ring spanner fit (ignoring that the barrel material might be a bit close for just any spanner to fit completely), are the studs into the crankcase 3/8" o.d. and threaded UNF? If so, more clues it's more-likely '70 rather than '67.
Originally Posted By Ian T
the vintage mcc dating gurus say It left the factory 5 Jan 1967 which concurs with bsa oc info posted online which says A65 LA relates to 1967. Bantam John (bsa parts specialist in uk) tells me the bike probably had a replacement bsa engine at some point with bsa dealer restamped engine number to match the frame.
As the saying goes, "Denial ain't only a river in Africa" ...
OMG! I didn't realise all the discussion about LA Y bikes! How complicated. The answer to all your Q's, Stuart, are 'yes' therefore it looks as if my bike is a 1970 bike after all which concurs with the US title. I have actually applied to BSAOC dating officer for a dating letter so I will wait with interest. Hopefully thereafter I can start the uk registration process.
Thanks for your help guys. This looks like a great forum! I'm going to post a separate message about gearbox cluster removal...
Sunbeam S7 Deluxe 1949 Honda CB750 K3 1972 Suzuki GT500 1977 BSA A65 Lightning LA Y 1970
Ian, if you take the seat off and look at the bolt mounting brackets, this will tell us a lot, 69/70 frames had different seat brackets to 67/68 and pre 67 had them different again.
Some 69/70 frames had fairing tubes welded to the headstock, this wasn't on earlier frames and all 69/70 frames were fitted with a swing arm which had bronze bushings and not rubber silent block bushes, the swing arm bolt was also solid where as the earlier ones were hollow.
As already mentioned, all 70 engines had a bsa embossed number block, as did most 69's but the very early 69's were on a raised block, but not machined flush or bsa stamped.
3/8ths bihex barrel studs/nuts make it 1970.it will have a vertical clutch cable entry as well. The seat should have a pair of forks/ bracket at the front to engage with the horizontal bar at the rear end of the frame top tube.
71 Devimead A65 750 56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65 Cagiva Raptor 650 MZ TS 250 The poster formerly known as Pod
I can see the remnants of the front seat bracket in the picture. It either broke off or someone cut it off. I've had several A65 with the Y and from all my research they are '69, '70 specification even though the serial number suggests it's a '67.
If you plan to put it together this coming weekend Kev, don't forget to anneal the gasket even when new, and cover it with copper cote both sides. I hope the bottom of your head will be machined by SRM. After you start riding, proper retorque is essential to keep your cylinders sealed.
My head having returned from SRM, was now ready to be fitted, and after a question asked in the competition section, I equipped myself with some copper sealant, and a pair of small o-rings, so I was ready to go.
Barrel and gasket prepared and ready for the head to be fitted..
You can buy a "crowfoot" open-end wrench that has a 3/8" or 1/2" drive hole on it, mount it at 90 degrees to the shaft of the torque wrench so that the overall length is correct, and torque it that way.
I don't bother, though ... "feel" has always worked well for me. Have never had a head leak.
America's great! Only place in the world where the poor and oppressed check on their Food Stamp balance with an $800 smartphone ... !
My little BSA has had to take a back seat for a while, I just can't find the correct forks for the bike,
Risking asking a silly question, you do know that '70 BSA forks are essentially the same as contemporary Triumph forks? The only really BSA-peculiar bits are the sliders; fit Triumph sliders - and ride the bike - 'til the Beeza bits come along?
Or leave the triumph sliders on and don't change them because they don't looks any different
I did wonder ... I couldn't see any difference but, as most other '69/'70 forks part numbers are the same as Triumphs, I thought Small Heath must've given the sliders different part numbers for a reason I couldn't see ...?