Originally posted by norbsa48503: It can be done with hot water and lots of time. But with only two bolts and two seals to remove why not pull the sliders the oil needs to be changed anyway. norbsa
Agree - it isn't worth stressing good parts. Just dismount the big chrome nuts, loosen the small nuts (remember pressing down the spring a bit to get to the nut) inside/beneath and the fork legs' loose (after dismounting the wheel, of course).
'73 Commando Basket - new aluminium cyl '93 Ducati 900 SS
"Better lit a light than cursing the darkness" (Confucius)
Re: front fork boots#64906 04/09/061:10 pm04/09/061:10 pm
jangg,You don't have to take the top apart if you are just putting on new boots. Assembled dampeners will hang there waiting. I did fail to talk about the fiber washers that have to be found and stuck on with some grease for the re-assembly though. What did you do Mcsurf? norbsa
norbsa 1960 TR6 1963 Super Rocket 1965 650 Star 1966 441 1968 Thunderbolt 1969 Twinkle 250 1972 Fastback 1974 Roadster 1970 S.S Way too many BSA's not named http://decentcycles.com
Re: front fork boots#64907 04/11/068:31 pm04/11/068:31 pm
I'm pulling the forks, replacing the weeping seals and rotten boots, and using the disassembly as a convenient time to replace the dinged front fender. I'm thinking 15w fork oil as it sometimes clunks with the 10w that was in there. The factory advised a multi grade like Castrol but I think I'll go with a fork specific oil. Love the bike but I'll bet I've put more time into it in the six months I've had it than I put into all the modern bikes I've owned in the last 20 years combined <lol>.