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#300051 - 02/22/10 10:38 pm Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: Rickman]  
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 458
Andy Lorenz Offline
Andy Lorenz  Offline


Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 458
Stafford, UK
The tank is a 1970 A65 one, it was only available for the 1970 Lightning & Firebird UK models, I have looked at the 1970 USA brochure, and you have different tanks.
They do appear now and again.

The Starfire / Victor tanks had rubber knee pads.
Don't know if


Thrash, Bang, Re-Build...
#397370 - 10/04/11 4:55 pm Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: Rich B]  
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oriental blue Offline
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oriental blue  Offline
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Uk
Hi I know this is a long shot but do you still have the plans for the rear sets for LC's if so would you be happy to email them to me please? Cheers


1966 BSA A65 Spitfire Mark 11 Special
1970 Triumph TR6 Trophy Sports
1970 Triumph T120R Bonneville
1978 Triumph T140V Bonneville
#397427 - 10/05/11 12:19 am Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: oriental blue]  
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Posts: 2,884
Rickman Online content
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Rickman  Online Content
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Ohio
As an additional add-on from me, I've managed to find ONE folding British footpeg, that the kick lever manages to clear when folded up.

I still need to find a similar one for the other side, and a shortened brake lever, maybe, to work off the passenger peg hole on the muffler mounting loop on my A10 frame.

I forget if I've mentioned this before, someone has already brased dowels for the footpegs onto this frame?

Someone has shown me a brake pedal, it is unique in shape and length, I think he said he wasn't sure which bike/model it was originally for.... I'll be looking for another example!
But then, I'll be having to make up a shortened brake rod...
Brett

#397517 - 10/05/11 6:53 pm Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: Alex]  
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DavidP Online content
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DavidP  Online Content

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Gnashville
Originally Posted By: Alex

Quote:
Does anyone think shortening the gear lever would make gear changes difficult.


No, I think shortening the lever is quite desirable as the stock shifter requires much to large of a throw, IMHO.



Don't know about that. I tried the same mod I used on my T150 on the OIF A65. My size 11 1/2 feet required that I shorten the shifter. Didn't work, not enough leverage to shift smoothly.

There are some great ideas here, though. The OIF foot pegs are a bit too long to just flip round. However, I might find some shorter ones which will work for this trick. The tough part is always the brake lever.
BTW: The brake lever I used on the Trident looks like the one on Alex's Royal Star.
Thanks for the pictures, Alex.


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
#397533 - 10/05/11 8:53 pm Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: DavidP]  
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jim.c Offline
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scotland A small place just no...
Doing a full monty srm devimead a65 cafe racer just now this is how i done rearsets,the footrest folds up for the kickstart to clear






#633400 - 01/03/16 8:51 am Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: markoz]  
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BrizzoBrit Offline
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BrizzoBrit  Offline

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Brisbane, Australia
Hi Folks,

Stumbled across this while cruising the web. Spent some time over the break finalising my rearset ideas. My 1300 mile trip a couple of months ago convinced me I need to do this. And I have most other things on the bike sorted now. As you can see it took a long time to complete. I had done some bits when this post was started.

So I used the reversed folding pegs as I discussed above and also used by Alex. Cut and shut the shift lever and I dont think shortening the lever is going to be an issue as it doesnt seem take much effor to shift while on the stand. Brake lever is a shortened A65 unit with a bit of massaging. Used original mounting, switch etc. Painted parts have since been painted. Need a bit more curve in the kickstart - I dont have oxy so cant quite get enough heat into it in the thicker part. Once that is done the shiny bits can go to the plater.




Pretty happy with how this turned out really. Will post pics when finally fitted.

Cheers
Ray


BSA 1969 A65F
BSA 1966 A65H
Triumph 1968 T120
Kawasaki A1R
& too many projects!
#633404 - 01/03/16 10:21 am Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: markoz]  
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,533
Allan Gill Offline
Allan Gill  Offline



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Posts: 4,533
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Looks good, if i could make one suggestion RE the kickstart, its where I made my mistake, if you bend the kickstart closer to the shaft point, it won't be in the way of your boot when your riding, because the arm will be further forward. Mines ok, but it does become a PITA sometimes.


beerchug
#633440 - 01/03/16 1:07 pm Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: markoz]  
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Posts: 3,405
gavin eisler Online content
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gavin eisler  Online Content
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argyll. scotland, uk
HNYear Ray, your reversed pegs are neat but they will tend to slacken at the frame mounts unless you reverse the threading to RHS for drive side and LHT for timing side, since the torque is reversed from stock.

Heres my bent kicker


I agree with Alan, bending closer to the spindle would be better. Stock straight with a rearset peg is not comfortable, this is just tolerable.

here is a folding kicker available from Terry Avery it fits BSA shafts, needs a different cotter pin angle from stock though, it tucks in well but its heavy.

Last edited by gavin eisler; 01/03/16 1:09 pm.

71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
#633447 - 01/03/16 1:33 pm Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: markoz]  
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shel Online content
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shel  Online Content
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ohio
When I was building my Trident I thought it might be a bit uncomfortable with the clip-on bars and rearsets but it isn't in fact it's quite comfortable. If I could find rearsets for my T140 at a reasonable price I'd buy them


When given the choice between two evils I picked the one I haven't tried before
#633550 - 01/04/16 5:20 am Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: markoz]  
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BrizzoBrit Offline
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Posts: 721
Brisbane, Australia
Thanks Guys. HNY to you too.

Yes, kickstart lever seems to be a consensus point. I intend to get the curve to further run down into the lower end towards the shaft, but it's good to have feedback that's important. Thanks Alan and Gavin!!! It just clears my shin, but as you say guys, I reckon it would get to be annoying if I want to move my leg around a bit. I could see it digging into my shin at some stage.

Gavin, I've been running bolts and nylock nuts on the footpegs on both sides for several years now. Not quite sure why I went that route. Might have got annoyed with them moving around. The trick is a drop of blue Loctite. Quick tap on the footrest rubber after undoing the bolt and bobs yer uncle. Solid, but not permanent. Might not be as easy to free them up with folding pegs, but an advantage of the reversed arrangement as I see it is that the footpegs don't need to be taken off to remove the timing and primary covers. Which is about my only reason for removing them normally.

Cheers
guys


BSA 1969 A65F
BSA 1966 A65H
Triumph 1968 T120
Kawasaki A1R
& too many projects!
#633596 - 01/04/16 1:30 pm Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: markoz]  
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miffa Offline
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miffa  Offline
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The Black Country England
rearsets on a unit are a pain to get right ,heres another way around it heres mine i did this a while back they came of a Triton




#646677 - 04/01/16 8:47 am Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: miffa]  
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BrizzoBrit Offline
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Brisbane, Australia
OK folks, a quick update as promised. Delay was due to an extended road test.

2500 mile trip to NSW and around the place to visit the Australian national Motorcycle Museum at Nabiac and to attend the Barry Sheene Festival of Speed in Sydney.

I find the new riding position forces a little more weight onto my hands than I'd like, but 70mph upwards that is balanced by wind pressure. On the long trip, I never once felt my feet were in an uncomfortable position. With standard peg position I always felt my feet were too far forward. For what I want I think this is - for me - better that the LC position where pegs are further back. I do find already a bit much weight on my hands while commuting, which is what I do mostly.

From the last photos I posted have painted the mounts & brake lever, home Zn plated the peg pivots, made some stainless bolts (thinned the heads down a tad) with thin nylocks and had the kick start and gear lever chromed.

Final fitment of kick-start looks like this:




On suggestion from Alan & Gavin I had the kick start bent forward a little more. It did just touch my shin. The back end of that is quite pointy. On initial testing I also Reversed the direction the cotter pin is inserted. By inserting from the bottom you get a few more degrees forward rotation on the kick lever. I found that wasn't really necessary and reverted to inserting the cotter from the top.

What I did find very troublesome was that the kickstart would hit the stop before reaching the bottom of its travel. This jarred my foot, and I felt that hitting the stop would damage something. As I was changing the kick quadrant (to fit x-ring - see my other post http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthread...lat&fpart=1) I methodically ground away at the arc that hits the travel stop. This got me 'full travel' and I haven't noticed it hitting the 'stop' since. Looking at my notes says approx. 1/4" was removed.

Bought a new pedal for this. Ordered the 66 A65H part number which is the 'short' style and I thought sat at a 'straight forward' angle. New one was different and angled inward. Was also very sloppy on the new bolt more so that the old worn one. That's new parts these days. Drilled a 'stop' hole for the ball at my desired angle and now it is angled straight to the front.

I enjoy the short travel afforded by the shortened gear lever.

Brake lever ended up like this:



A concern I had with remodelling the brake lever was that it was considerably shorter (maybe 50%) and that would lead to poor brake performance. This was the case. Very wooden and a lot of pressure require to get any braking action. I did buy some Ferodo linings but have yet to fit these. T recover some leverage I tried moving the brake rod clevis pin the one of the switch arm holes (1/4"). This recovered a lot of feel and I'm used to the brake action now. Hopefully the new linings will provide additional brake power. This necessitated making a new switch arm so I cut one up, repositioned the bottom screw to the top hole and welded it up. After a dress on the grinder and a coat of silver paint its as good as a bought one. Fitted a nice shiny new SS rod and adjuster from Molnar Precision.



I'd like to run the drive side foot peg a bit closer to the frame and maybe a straight (timing side) mount might do that but I'd need to remodel and thin down the bolt and maybe the pedal a bit so I'll probably leave it.


Very happy with how this turned out.

Ray

Last edited by BrizzoBrit; 04/01/16 9:39 am. Reason: added details

BSA 1969 A65F
BSA 1966 A65H
Triumph 1968 T120
Kawasaki A1R
& too many projects!
#646965 - 04/03/16 6:04 am Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: markoz]  
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,533
Allan Gill Offline
Allan Gill  Offline



Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,533
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Your brake action would improve if you move the fulcrum point of the rod further away from the fulcrum point of the lever.

I mot tested a bike a couple of years ago. He had something similar but worse. - cb500f cafe racer. Back brake was so poor it failed, let alone performed a lockout, it failed to meet 10% effort. If he had done what I suggested then it would have passed.

The original factory setup is very good IMO.

The hex rod mated with the 12pt foot peg spline gives a multitude of different foot rest positions.







For the kickstart position I use the dremel at the back of the quadrant where it meets the stop so that at rest the lever comes further forward. I always insert the cotter from the rear for the reason you suggest



I'm going to run with forward mounted pegs for this season, as I don't mind taking passengers. But the rear set position and clubman seat make for a very comfy bike.


beerchug
#647190 - 04/04/16 8:50 pm Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: Allan Gill]  
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 721
BrizzoBrit Offline
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BrizzoBrit  Offline

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Posts: 721
Brisbane, Australia
Hi Allan,

My feeling is the angle of the rod is OK based on the relative angles of the respective lever arms. Of course angle of the arms is very important so the most effective moment is generated.

It's mostly about the mechanical advantage provided by the brake pedal. Standard pedal gives a mechanical advantage (MA) of approx. 5.1 (by dividing the moment arm of the pedal section by the moment arm of the rod section). For my modified lever with rod in original position MA= 1.8 (ie nearly 3 times the pressure required at the pedal for the same force applied by the brake rod). For the modified rod position MA= 2.8 (approx.) recovering some of the effectiveness of the pedal.

Your lever shown (A65LC?? or gold star??) based on a quick measure of the photo has an MA of around 5, by virtue of its longer pedal arm and shorter rod arm. Pretty close to the standard lever. I'd expect brake feel to be pretty similar. Of course a little leverage is lost by the arrangement of the intermediate arm (MA = approx. 0.7 based on a quick measure of the photo).

Cheers
ray


BSA 1969 A65F
BSA 1966 A65H
Triumph 1968 T120
Kawasaki A1R
& too many projects!
#647272 - 04/05/16 2:50 pm Re: a65 rearset foot pegs [Re: markoz]  
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,533
Allan Gill Offline
Allan Gill  Offline



Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,533
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Hi Ray, it's a proper LC brake pedal, the Goldie type won't work with the link rod braking system



A comparison of length. To be honest it feels just right when using it, if it were hydraulic then it would be a very neat solution but it wasn't laughing

See how you idea rolls for you, If you know someone with brake tester, your looking for about 60% brake effort with a lock out ( when compared to the weight on the back wheel - with rider on saddle. When we calculate brake test results we weigh front and the rear , add the two together and divide by the force/effort provided by the brake. But calculated like this it usually shows about 30% on the back brake ( when using the complete bike weight) minimum without lockout is 25% (on the weakest brake - front or rear) and a lockout at any brake force/effort is an instant pass.

As I say, I tested one bike and despite the actual brake itself having good potential, you couldn't physically apply enough force to generate good brake effort.

The longer the lever from fulcrum to foot the more leverage you will have, it's like a kickstart, the longer it is the easier it is.

The further away the brake rod linkage is to the fulcrum point the more efficiency you will have for a shorter range of movement.

I don't think we can really use ratios here as the bike weight hasn't changed, the effort applied to stop the back wheel hasn't changed, the arm off the brake cam may not have changed and the average male shoe size is a UK size 9 - which hasn't changed. So as the rest of the bike hasn't altered in scale it is hard to ratio one item.

I'm sure you know all this anyway but it's worth adding for anyone reading who doesn't. But hope the test riding goes ok.


beerchug
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