All Lights work now off the battery but I just cant get a spark.
Are the points opening and closing as you turn the engine over?
If they are, disconnect the condenser; if you now get a spark, you need a new condenser (don't run the engine for any length of time without a new condenser).
Is the HT lead attached directly to the spark plug under a plastic cover, or is it screwed into something like an NGK plug cap that's then attaches to the plug?
If the HT lead attaches directly to the plug, does the plug end have the waisted screw-on terminal? If it doesn't (thread visible) the HT lead terminal is too big for the plug terminal.
Otoh, if there's anything like the NGK plug cap between the lead and the plug, these can fail.
If all of the above works and still no sparks, time to get the multimeter out ...
The ignition circuit is:-
. battery -ve -> Brown/Blue -> ignition key switch;
. ignition switch -> White or White/Blue -> White -> handlebar kill switch (if fitted) -> coil;
. coil -> Black/White -> points -> points plate -> engine;
. engine -> Red -> battery +ve.
Risking telling you things you know already:-
1. Set the meter to a Volts scale just above 12V, start testing by touching one meter lead on each of the battery terminals and noting the meter reading - should be something above 12V.
2. Test all connections between the coil and the ignition switch by touching one meter lead on the connection and the other meter lead on battery +ve. You should always see the same meter reading as you saw at 1; if you don't, there's a break or Volts drop between the battery and the coil where you see the meter reading change.
3. Between the coil and battery +ve, test all connections by touching one meter lead on the connection and the other meter lead on battery -ve
. Again, you should always see the same meter reading as you saw at 1; if you don't, again there's a break or Volts drop between the battery and the coil where you see the meter reading change.
4. If you need to check for continuity between two points not involving the battery, change the meter setting to Ohms and connect one meter lead to each point you want to check between. Only thing to bear in mind is the meter does this check with its own battery, which can provide only a small current. So you might see zero Ohms (good continuity) on the meter but whatever you're testing fails when it has to conduct the 3A-4A drawn by the ignition coil.
5. When testing involving a coil terminal, always ensure the meter lead contacts the threaded pillar in the centre of the nut attaching the tab terminal; then the test'll show up any continuity problem between the coil itself and the tab terminal.
6. If you test the coil itself, the meter should show:-
. between 3 and 4 Ohms with one meter lead connected to each threaded pillar terminal (low-tension terminals) on the coil;
. between either LT terminal and the spark-plug lead socket (high-tension) terminal, ~5000 Ohms on a Lucas
coil, ~7000 Ohms on a pattern one like a PVL;
. infinite Ohms between any terminal and the case.