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1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration #625834
11/15/15 1:18 pm
11/15/15 1:18 pm
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Swan Offline OP

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Winona, MN
Finally! After several months of searching I have finally found and bought a 1966 Triumph 650 motorcycle. It is a twin carburetor T120R Bonneville, the fastest stock production motorcycle in its day.

Stock 1966 Triumph Bonneville (export or US model)

(my new project)

My first motorcycle as an adult was a 1966 Triumph TR6 Trophy, which I sold after a brief summer fling with it and travelled to Europe with the money. I always regretted selling that bike and I do not even have a photo of it nor do any of my friends. A few years ago I picked up a basket case 66 Bonneville with intentions of restoring it but my fate changed when I found my BSA Gold Star and sold the basket case to fund the Goldieís restoration.

Earlier this year I aggressively searched for a 66 Triumph, not a restored version, but a basket case, bobber, chopper, barn find etc. so I could restore it myself. A decent 66 Triumph popped up on Indiana Craigslist and I spoke with a very nice man named Dan and I bought it for $1100. It just so happened I was going to central Illinois with a large truck the following week so I drove over to Indiana to pick up my bike in person. Dan is in his early 60ís and has had a lifelong love of motorcycles. He rides a Triumph T160, is restoring a 1967 TR6 along with an Indian chief. He sold this bike to help fund his Indian restoration. It is exactly what I wanted at a great price. It has been sitting unused since 1977.

The good news is it is a matching frame and motor serial number 1966 Bonneville with a title. I have seen a lot less go for much more on eBay recently. The motor and gear box turn freely, nearly all the black bits are included along with the correct original stainless fenders (mud guards), the one year only oil tank and front drum brake. Included, but not pictured, are the original tank badges, rear fender loop and exhaust pipes. The bad news is the seat and tank are incorrect for a 66 Bonneville, the center stand, headlight and ring, tail light, engine stays, carbs, pistons, push rod tubes and tachometer are missing. The wheel rims are crusty, one foot rest and the front fender stay are bent, the left side cover and oil tank have been chromed. Ugly handlebars, missing controls etc but to my eye it is the perfect start to my next winter project. I plan to have it ready to ride in the spring for her and my 50th birthdays.







On my long, windy drive back to Minnesota I thought about how I want to build this bike and decided to keep everything in factory stock US style condition with two exceptions which can easily be reversed. First, Iíll use the 3 Ĺ gallon tank and paint it as a 1966 TR6 Trophy with Pacific blue and white with a gold pinstripe complete with a parcel grid on top and secondly install a UK (home) market lower handlebar. I do not like Triumph slimline tanks, which were introduced in 66, and believe the TR6 blue and white color combination is Triumph most beautiful bike of all time. However, I do not want the white and blue fenders of a TR6 because white is very difficult to keep clean, so Iíll polish the stainless steel fenders that came with my bike. So basically this will be a bone stock 66 Bonneville with a TR6 tank and lower UK handlebars. Iíll keep my eye out for a decent original slimline tank, paint with the correct white and grenedier red stripes, and store it if I ever chose to sell this bike (unlikely).
[/URL]
(1966 TR6 tank, beautiful)

I spent most of Friday and Saturday, examining the bike and breaking down the motor. I took my time, made notes, took many photographs, cleaned and examined everything, labeled and bagged all the parts and made a list of things to buy. I have the correct Triumph service tools, a hydraulic press, and an impact driver with Pozidrive bits so everything came apart easily.


I was pleasantly surprised to discover nobody has been in the lower end of this motor. The gear box and components are pristine!



The crankshaft, conrods, camshafts, tappets and main bearings are perfect. I will pull and clean the sludge trap this week and measure the conrod tolerences and replace what ever is suspect or out of factory specification. The primary is good except for the clutch basket which is on order. This is a low mileage bike that has been sitting for 40 years. The motor cases, cylinder head and rocker boxes were washed in my parts washer, rinsed with hot soapy water, scrubbed with Simple Green and a red 3M scrub pad for metal and then blasted with a combination of walnut shell and glass beads. The parts were then washed several times with hot soapy water and dried with compressed air, making sure to remove any leftover blast media. All will be sent to Green Tree Scooters tomorrow for vapor blasting.



clean and ready for vapor blasting

All the hardware will be cleaned, bead blasted and sent out to be cadmium plated as it was originally. All the black bits will be stripped, primered and repainted with catalyzed black paint. My friend Skip Green at Apparatus MC will install new valves, guides and seats. Once all of this is done, Iíll start going clockwise, enjoy the ride and stay tunedÖ

Last edited by Swan; 11/25/15 4:47 pm.

1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
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Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #625838
11/15/15 1:53 pm
11/15/15 1:53 pm
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,093
Christchurch NZ
R Moulding Online content
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R Moulding  Online Content
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Christchurch NZ

Nice to see you found one Swan. Going to really hack me off to see another bike finished before mine though. Since my first bike and Triumph is a 66 TR6 I will agree about the Pacific blue over Alaskan white being lovely!

Regards
Rod


So remember, when you're feeling very small and insecure,
How amazingly unlikely is your birth;
And pray that there's intelligent life somewhere out in space,
'Cause there's bugger all down here on Earth!
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #625842
11/15/15 2:59 pm
11/15/15 2:59 pm
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,550
Scotland
kommando Offline
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Looking good already, I would use those cases as they looked now but be interesting to see the vapour blasted finish in comparison, plus it has the added advantage of closing the pores and so easier to keep clean.

Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #625851
11/15/15 4:36 pm
11/15/15 4:36 pm
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Swan Offline OP

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Winona, MN
Redmoggy, I have been following your build thread closely. Thanks for all the information and images.

Kommando, I am sold on the vapor blast process. My Goldie cleans up easily and the blasted alloys parts still look new after several years and 5500 miles. Green Tree Scooters does vapor blasting for me and the cost is really reasonable.


1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #625931
11/16/15 11:11 am
11/16/15 11:11 am
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,088
Laredo (South) Texas, USA
GrandPaul Offline
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1. Congrats on a good find at a VERY good price.

2. EXCELLENT "before" photos. Many people forget to take those straight, side-on shots.

3. I have every expectation that this "before and after' composite photo will be one of the best in a long time...


GrandPaul (does not use emoticons)
Author of the book "Old Bikes"
Too many bikes to list, mostly Triumph & Norton, some BSA & European
"The Iron in your blood should be Vintage"
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626037
11/17/15 10:47 am
11/17/15 10:47 am
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Swan Offline OP

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Winona, MN
Thanks all! I am very excited about this project, I've waiting a long time for this and it feels great to start a new motorcycle restoration just as the riding season here is ending.

Quick update: The crankshaft cases, cylinder head, rocker boxes etc were shipped to Green Tree Scooters for vapor blasting, new gasket set, seals, tab washers, bearings and more have arrived. I spent several hours yesterday literally going through every part in the factory parts manual and ordered every piece of hardware that was either missing or in poor condition. Once the hardware arrives, Iíll send everything (old and new) out to be cadmium plated so everything looks as it did when it left the factory.

I cleaned the crankshaft last night, removed the con rods and bearings. I was very pleasantly surprised to find the journals to be in standard spec, look really good and will need a simple light polish. The rods are good and within spec and although the main ball and roller bearings look, sound, and feel pretty good, I am going to replace them along with new, standard sized con rod shell bearings and con rod nuts. The sludge trap cap looked untouched and came off with heat, beeswax, Kroil, impact driver and a BF Hammer. The tube was surprisingly clean, further suggesting this is a low mileage bike. I pulled the tube via John Healyís tap and bolt method and then scrubbed the crank inside and out in the parts washer. I will install a new sludge trap and hex cap, new bearings etc and wait for my cases to come back next week or so to start going clockwise on the motor. Meanwhile, I am ordering more parts including new pistons, rings, UK made grey top seat, seat hinges, UK handlebar, grips, cables, Lucas head light and rim, rubber foot pegs etc. I did well on eBay this week too and bought the missing cast alloy tail light shell, engine stays and bolt set all for much lower then they usually sell. I still need to find a steering damper and the correct 1966 center stand for US models using 4.0 tires. OnwardsÖ.



Last edited by Swan; 11/17/15 11:21 am.

1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626040
11/17/15 11:01 am
11/17/15 11:01 am
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,088
Laredo (South) Texas, USA
GrandPaul Offline
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Originally Posted By Swan
... impact driver and a BF Hammer. ...a new sludge trap and hex cap...


BF = "British Fine"? All of mine are "Universal coarse"

For the nit-pickers, the hex-head plug has three issues: 1) there are typically little flakes left in the hex hole from the tool that cuts the final sizing, 2) they change the static balance of the crank assembly SLIGHTLY due to the hex void, and 3) they are sometimes shorter than standard, and need to be set in place so as not to be screwed in so far as to block the oil gallery from the crank nose.

Last edited by GrandPaul; 11/17/15 11:04 am.

GrandPaul (does not use emoticons)
Author of the book "Old Bikes"
Too many bikes to list, mostly Triumph & Norton, some BSA & European
"The Iron in your blood should be Vintage"
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626042
11/17/15 11:20 am
11/17/15 11:20 am
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Swan Offline OP

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Swan  Offline OP

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Winona, MN
GP,

Big F#$*in' Hammer....the Birmingham screwdriver...

I am familiar with some of the known issues with hex caps, made sure to source it from a reliable BB forum sponsor and measured it to confirm it will seat correctly.


1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626049
11/17/15 1:04 pm
11/17/15 1:04 pm
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,088
Laredo (South) Texas, USA
GrandPaul Offline
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GrandPaul  Offline
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Laredo (South) Texas, USA
Originally Posted By Swan
Big F#$*in' Hammer....the Birmingham screwdriver...

I am familiar with some of the known issues with hex caps, made sure to source it from a reliable BB forum sponsor and measured it to confirm it will seat correctly.


Yes, I knew all of the above, and believed you would most likely already know about the hex head plug, but there had been no mention made of possible issues with the plug, so I thought I'd mention it for anyone reading this thread.

Your builds must be in the very upper echelon of all online builds that I've seen in 12 or so years. Simply unparalleled for attention to detail and proper photography.


GrandPaul (does not use emoticons)
Author of the book "Old Bikes"
Too many bikes to list, mostly Triumph & Norton, some BSA & European
"The Iron in your blood should be Vintage"
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626057
11/17/15 1:56 pm
11/17/15 1:56 pm
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,550
Scotland
kommando Offline
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Scotland
The correct term is 'Brumagem screwdriver'

Meaning

A hammer.

Origin

The phrase has its source in the prejudice that people from the English West Midlands city of Birmingham (Brumagem, or Brummagem) were unsophisticated - a prejudice that persists in the UK today. Other places, notably Liverpool and Ireland, have suffered the same jibe. The 'Brummagem screwdriver' is really just a weak joke at the expense of Brummies, implying that they are such poor and lazy workers that they knock screws in with a hammer. In fact, the Birmingham and Black Country area has long been a source of excellent engineers who staffed the now sadly diminished car industry and other advanced metalworking concerns.

The city of Birmingham, then a small town, is listed in the Domesday book as Bermingeham. Brumagen is one of the versions of the name. There are numerous such variant spellings and pronunciations, for example, Bernynghem, Birmingecham, Bromwicham, Brummindgeham - Chinn and Thorne's Proper Brummie dictionary refer to over 140 such variants.

Whether Brumagem derived as a deliberate mispronunciation of Birmingham or whether both names derived from the original Bermingeham is unclear. In Middle English many places had several names and little attempt was made to determine a 'correct' pronunciation or spelling. Those living in Birmingham and the Black Country, will be used to hearing the name pronounced as 'Birmigum'.

Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626065
11/17/15 3:53 pm
11/17/15 3:53 pm
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,088
Laredo (South) Texas, USA
GrandPaul Offline
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GrandPaul  Offline
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Laredo (South) Texas, USA
A little inspiration from my driveway...



GrandPaul (does not use emoticons)
Author of the book "Old Bikes"
Too many bikes to list, mostly Triumph & Norton, some BSA & European
"The Iron in your blood should be Vintage"
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626086
11/17/15 5:42 pm
11/17/15 5:42 pm
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 25
Oakland, CA
V
vorhese Offline
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V

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 25
Oakland, CA
Very cool. I actually think the bars are very cool looking, American market high/touring bars (or whatever they are called).

Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626137
11/17/15 11:47 pm
11/17/15 11:47 pm
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,204
Lancaster, California
C.B.S Offline

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Lancaster, California
Your project is looking great! Your Crankshaft Roller Bearing. With the Crank being on STD, its probably safe to say that its never been apart. So I would like to know if there are any marks on the outer race indicating what clearance it is? Hoffmann Bearings Typical use OO for CN & OOO for C3.

Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626164
11/18/15 8:21 am
11/18/15 8:21 am
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,550
Scotland
kommando Offline
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Scotland
They also use V3 for C3 as well depending on the year, never seen a std clearance bearing to know if the used V2 or VN.

Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626187
11/18/15 10:43 am
11/18/15 10:43 am
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Swan Offline OP

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Swan  Offline OP

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Winona, MN
Thanks GP for the kind words and image of your 66, its beautiful.

Kommando, I have been to Birmingham many, many times and think it is a wonderful city. The people were friendly, hard working (and hard drinking) and I have friends there.

CBS, I have every reason to believe this is a low mileage bike and the lower end has never been apart. The timing side ball bearing E1591 70-1591 has no marks indicating its clearance. I looked under magnification for the slightest mark or dot(s) and saw nothing, but I'll assume it is a C3. The drive side roller bearing e2879 70-2879 however has a clear "V3" stamp. I am replacing both bearings with new C3 bearings just to be safe.

no clearance markings



V3 roller bearing

Last edited by Swan; 11/18/15 2:18 pm.

1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626201
11/18/15 12:14 pm
11/18/15 12:14 pm
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,204
Lancaster, California
C.B.S Offline

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Lancaster, California
@swan Thank you for the very detailed photos. Seems that Triumph at some point where using the same roller bearings that the BSA Twins where using. Hoffmann RM11L with a C3 Clearance. Perhaps in 1968 & later they started to use the RHP Brass Cage Bearing in a "CN" Condition. Very interesting.

Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626207
11/18/15 12:50 pm
11/18/15 12:50 pm
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,587
Illinois, USA
TR6Ray Offline

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Originally Posted By Swan
CBS, I have every reason to believe this is a low mileage bike and the lower end has never been apart. The timing side ball bearing E1591 70-1591 has no marks indicating its clearance. I looked under magnification for the slightest mark or dot(s) and saw nothing, but I'll assume it is a C3. The drive side roller bearing e2879 70-2879 however has a clear "V3" stamp. I am replacing both bearings with new C3 bearings just to be safe.


Swan, be careful and do some reading before you order your bearings. I think you want C3 for the Timing Side ball bearing, and CN for the Drive Side roller bearing. The 70-2879 roller comes in two clearances under the same part number. Read about it HERE . Or, for more detailed entertainment, read about it HERE.

Ray


'64 TR6R Plus some Twins from other countries (U.S., Germany, Japan)
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626213
11/18/15 1:49 pm
11/18/15 1:49 pm
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,550
Scotland
kommando Offline
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Just to confuse you, looking at what you have taken out it looks to me its Roller C3 and Ball CN, this is assuming V3 = C3 and blank means CN. But I would be going C3 on both as per what I took out of my 65 but as TR6Ray points out they did change to a CN roller for a period of time. This all goes out the window if you fit the bearings and the crank does not spin freely as then you need to increase the clearance after ensuring there is no dirt or bruising of a journal that is interfering.

I lived in Birmingham for 25 years, its not until you leave that you realise how good it was.

Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626215
11/18/15 2:03 pm
11/18/15 2:03 pm
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,204
Lancaster, California
C.B.S Offline

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@Swan The Ball Bearing, does the other side, on the outside race shown any scribing marks? They will be very, very, faint, sometimes they can be seen in good light. Should have OOO for C3.

Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626246
11/18/15 8:03 pm
11/18/15 8:03 pm
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Swan Offline OP

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Thanks all for chiming in. The dangers of writing too quickly on my lunch hour and not thinking this through... I have read and remembered John Healy's remarks on bearing clearances and their problems.I need to determine which bearings to order. I have a C3 ball bearing at the shop and will test fit it tomorrow. But am now unsure which roller bearing to order.

I thoroughly and carefully inspected both sides of both bearings with a 10X magnifying loop, a powerful light and a UV light source and did not find any markings or dots but I did find "645JH" lightly inscribed in the roller bearing. May of 1964, John Healy???



Just for fun and a point of comparison, I have a 1966 Triumph 6TA parts motor, so I just heated the cases and removed the main bearings. It has the same lightened crankshaft as my 1966 T120 and here are the bearings:


1966 6TA MS11 ball bearing , note the three circles

Here is the RM11L roller bearing:


It is lightly inscribed with "286EL".

Thoughts?


1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626247
11/18/15 8:15 pm
11/18/15 8:15 pm
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,204
Lancaster, California
C.B.S Offline

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The Ball Bearing out of your Thunderbird is in a C3 Condition by the 3 circles. Your Roller bearing is a C3 by the stamping V3. I have only seen Hoffmann Bearings using the "V" stamp to indicate the Clearance. Not sure what the scribing marks are, perhaps they could be from the manufacture when they where produced. I would suspect a "CN" Condition Roller Bearing Should be installed.

Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626332
11/19/15 12:07 pm
11/19/15 12:07 pm
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Swan Offline OP

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Winona, MN
So, for my 66 T120 Bonneville I should go with a C3 ball bearing 70-1591 and a CN roller bearing (70-2879 aka 68-0625 correct CN for earlier 650's, not the C2 found on later T140's) despite having a V3 ?


1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626388
11/19/15 5:35 pm
11/19/15 5:35 pm
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,587
Illinois, USA
TR6Ray Offline

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Originally Posted By Swan
So, for my 66 T120 Bonneville I should go with a C3 ball bearing 70-1591 and a CN roller bearing (70-2879 aka 68-0625 correct CN for earlier 650's, not the C2 found on later T140's) despite having a V3 ?
Swan,

That is what Pete R recommended for my '64 TR6 build. The thread where he said it got lost in a forum crash, but I had this copied directly into my notes: You'll need a single lipped roller bearing, CN condition (normal internal clearance) on the drive side and a ball bearing,C3 condition (extra internal clearance)on the timing side.


Here is a quote from John Healy on the issue of the drive side roller bearing in another thread:

Originally Posted By John Healy
. . . here is the catch, putting a bearing with too much, and the C3 is too much, for all but the MOST EXCEPTIONAL exception, can cause problems. First it will increase the chances the motor will vibrate plus increase the chances the bearing will create noise on the over-run.

This is the exact situation that happened when Triumph fit a drive side roller bearing (70-9493) that should have been CN with a C3 bearing. When you let off the gas, especially at the top of a rise, it sounded like the cranksahft was going to end up in your lap. The 500 was popular in our shop and we replaced many a drive side bearing during initial dealer set-up under warranty before the customer ever took possesion of the bike.

Although I have seen 650's (and only in the past 10 years) where one needed the C3 condition, they were never fitted to either the 650 or 750 at the factory. If you can get the the bearing into the C2, I am quite sure the CN will give you the proper clearance.
John


Ray


'64 TR6R Plus some Twins from other countries (U.S., Germany, Japan)
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626426
11/19/15 9:09 pm
11/19/15 9:09 pm
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Swan Offline OP

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Always listen to John Healy... Thanks all.


1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
Re: 1966 Triumph Bonneville T120R restoration [Re: Swan] #626796
11/22/15 1:27 pm
11/22/15 1:27 pm
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Swan Offline OP

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Swan  Offline OP

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Posts: 1,163
Winona, MN
Thanks all! Iím still going counterclockwiseÖ Had a good day in the shop yesterday and broke down my rolling chassis to the frame. I photographed, documented, cleaned and inspected all the hardware and parts. Some good news, some bad news, but overall I am pleased with what I have found.




FilthyÖ




All the the hardware, with the exception of two fork pinch bolts, is original and in good shape, despite the rust and dirt. No mutilated bolt heads or screws from the wrong tools.


Once I finish cleaning the frame and swing arm, Iíll put it a frame jig and test it for straightness, tweek if necessary, then finish breaking it down.


The front forks slide well, contained clean oil and should clean up well and the stations appear straight and can be re-used.

The back shocks are rough, but Iíll clean and break them down and then decide if I am going reuse them, replace the covers or replace them completely.



The hubs, brake pads, spokes, nipples are very good but it looks like Iíll need to replace the rims. They are straight and true, but too much chrome has flaked off in spots. It is cheaper to replace them then it is to have them rechromed. The wheel bearings looked great and the grease was very clean, indicating low miles and/or proper maintenance. The speedometer drive was empty, so Iíll need to buy a replacement.






I started the long process of cleaning, photographing and blasting all the hardware and black bits. I plan to burn a vacation day this week and spend it in the shop, drinking beer, listening to music and finish blasting the hardware and frame, remove the axles, tires, rims and spokes and to finish ordering missing and replacement parts. My kind of vacation.


My luck on eBay has continued and some of the missing parts have begun to arrive, including the cast alloy tail light holder.


A BritBike forum member has offered to sell me the correct tail light, steering damper and center stand at very reasonable prices. Once I finish cleaning and blasting all the hardware, Iíll do another hardware order to get the last of what I need then send it all out to be replated with cadmium. While that is out, Iíll have my crankshaft balanced to my new pistons and rings, paint the black bits and polish the covers. My parts sent out for vapor blasting should be back this week as well so I can have Skip at Apparatus MC install new valve guides, seats and valves. Despite the fact winter is just starting, I am motivated to build this bike rather quickly and have it ready for the first day of riding this spring. Onwards...




Last edited by Swan; 11/25/15 4:48 pm.

1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
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