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#603309 - 06/07/15 4:03 am Parts, good and bad  
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R Moulding Online content
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Christchurch NZ

I mentioned this in an other thread and thought I would try starting something off. Kind of a Good, Bad and Ugly thread for spare parts.

So these are a few of my own experiences with my 66 650's, feel free to add more.

New production Lucas.

I have a stator and rotor fitted to my TR6 7 years ago. Only problem has been the wire insulation becoming brittle and cracking.

I have to rear lamps a 564 and a 679. Both exceed the quality of the cheaper alternatives and are very nicely made.

I have a 2 position ignition switch. Has a very nice positive feel (yet to be used on the road).

Exhausts and Silencers

Armours exhausts. Nice finish. Pipes exit head at wrong angle and brackets are flat tabs instead of L shaped. Had lots of grief with silencers breaking off. Could the bends be wrong?

Armours silencers. Only had the long type. Nice finish and good sound. Not to Harleyish. Inlet pipe to big to fit on Armours exhaust without using a Beer can shim. Inlets broke off and required repairs.

Brituro silencers. Again long type. Nice finish. Wrong shape, too pointed towards the outlet. Way to loud almost offensive Harley like sound. Perfect fit onto Armours exhaust but broke off within 100 miles.

LF Harris exhausts. Nice finish. Pipes exit head at correct angle and have an expanded section rather than a welded sleeve to fit over stub. Brackets are correct L shape. Yet to try them with silencers. Will update when able.

Twist Grips. Forget all the cheap alternatives. Get an AMAL unit. Very nice cast Alloy body polished to resemble chrome. Good smooth action and both the throttle stop and friction adjuster actually work.

Wiring harness. TMS (Autosparks) fitted perfectly. Not much else to say.

Mudguards. Front stainless guard in Wassel packaging. Made in Taiwan. Came pre drilled with welded metric stud for lower fitting. Too long at front edge. Overall finish good from 10 feet but still shows sanding marks close up. Fitted very well.

Rear guard. No makers name but made in Taiwan sticker. Came from Triumph Twin Spares. Un drilled.Similar finish to front. Nice rolled edges along sides but cut edges not finished and not symmetrical. Poorly produced flair at rear edge and forward edge to long meaning recess for shock bolts did not line up.

Slimline Tank. Made by Emgo in Taiwan. Nicely formed, required minimal bodywork. Front mounts are solid threaded bungs welded into tank as opposed to original tubes welded to outside. Too fat, tall and long when compared to original. Some adjusting of mounts required to avoid fouling steering stem while turning. Reasonable alternative when comparing prices of originals.

Cant think of anymore right now and my brain hurts.

Rod

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#603312 - 06/07/15 4:39 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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HawaiianTiger Online content
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Maui Hawaii
You should have good luck with the Harris pipes. According to the late Keith Moore, Harris produced these using the original Triumph tooling. Where they were made would be the question.....

Check the bends. There shouldn't be any mandrel impressions on the inside radius of any of the bends exactly as the original Triumph pipes. They were drawn with an insert just a tad smaller than the inside diameter of the pipe so the bends would be uniform.

Very nice.

Cheers,
Bill


Bikes
1974 Commando
1985 Honda Nighthawk 650
1957 Thunderbird/T110 "Flying Tiger"
Antique Fans: Loads of Emersons (Two six wingers) plus gyros and orbiters.
#603326 - 06/07/15 6:08 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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Emsworth, sunny south of Engla...
I sent off for a clutch thrust washer that turned out to be solid bronze instead of steel backed. I used it but it broke up and the whole primary was filled with metal! It broke initially where the locating tabs are. The steel backed ones are best and the plain one works anyway. You don't need the tabs.

My silencers have broken a few times but having the cross brace between them helps a lot. Also, making sure everything fits with no strain before bolting up is good. I spoke to a chap who had a 650 in the 60s and he said the original silencers on his did the same thing.

Dave

#603373 - 06/07/15 11:09 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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KC in S.B. Online content
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RE: the EMGO tank. Same issues on my TR6, and you did not mention the problem of the center trim strip needs to also be EMGO for the tank. My Buddy pointed out that the steering head clearance issue is likely only TR6, as the rubber mounted P-clamp style clamps look to be forward of the tank. On a TR6, dry fit and modify the forward mounts BEFORE paint!


Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 2 '56 Chevys
#603398 - 06/07/15 12:56 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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Irish Swede Online content
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Always my complaint. WHY, oh WHY, can't these suppliers and makers of so-called "re-production parts"
take the time and effort to get them CORRECT the first time around?

It can't take any more time to "do it right" that it takes to do it WRONG.

Are they just to cheap or lazy to find an original part to copy, or what?

#603402 - 06/07/15 1:06 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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Ger B Offline
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Quote:
WHY, oh WHY, can't these suppliers

Maybe they copy the scrap and forget what hapened, what wore away, in the period before the parts became scrap?

On a shipyard I worked at in the 19 nineties a Portuguese speaking steel worker and a welder were told to cut a
square section out of the hull of a ship because the ship had collided and had a huge dent.
They cut out the steel plate with the stiffeners on the inside and took the part to the steel workshop.
When I went to see them there, they were ready to start bending new profiles and a steel sheet to copy the dent. eek

A language problem...


Ger B

#603423 - 06/07/15 2:37 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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R Moulding Online content
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KC, I was bound to forget something! Issue is still apparent on my T120R, forward part of the ridge rubs on the bottom of the top clamp.

Swede. Not that I see this as a defence. One supplier of Emgo tanks states that they had to use thicker steel to meet modern requirements. Consequently they could not make it the right shape.

Regards
Rod

#603480 - 06/07/15 8:13 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: Ger B]  
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Tiger100 Offline
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On a shipyard I worked at in the 19 nineties a Portuguese speaking steel worker and a welder were told to cut a
square section out of the hull of a ship because the ship had collided and had a huge dent.
They cut out the steel plate with the stiffeners on the inside and took the part to the steel workshop.
When I went to see them there, they were ready to start bending new profiles and a steel sheet to copy the dent. eek

A language problem... [/quote]

Ger that is rather funny, incredibly frustrating no doubt but funny nonetheless


Regards

Grant
#603513 - 06/08/15 1:43 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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Ger B Offline
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Quote:
Ger that is rather funny

In hindsight yes, but at that moment we did not think it was funny.
It would have cost the yard the equivalent of 8,000 USD if they had produced that patch and installed it.
What was learned though was: Give them instructions that cannot be understood wrong.

If you want a machine shop in Pakistan to produce a correct batch of camshafts for no matter what engine,
give them a drawing with the correct material spec, correct sizes, tolerances, smoothness characters and hardening instructions.
Do not give them a worn chipped camshaft.


Ger B

#603594 - 06/08/15 2:00 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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Emsworth, sunny south of Engla...
Factories in India, Taiwan and Pakistan are fully capable of making parts of the absolute highest quality. The trouble is no one wants to pay the price for the highest quality parts. The English parts would be better if people are prepared to pay the price, too.

Dave

#603603 - 06/08/15 2:46 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: HawaiianTiger]  
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Peter R Online content
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Originally Posted By HawaiianTiger
According to the late Keith Moore, Harris produced these using the original Triumph tooling.


There must be an awfull lot of "original" factory tooling and equipment around, considering the fact that so many makers/suppliers claim to use original factory tooling for their products. confused

Last edited by Peter R; 06/08/15 2:47 pm.

Peter.
1974 Commando 850
1972 Trident T150T
1961 Goldie DBD34
1969 Benelli 250 sport special
#603610 - 06/08/15 3:34 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: Peter R]  
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desco Online content
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And that "original tooling" is 40 or 50 years old. It's worn out.


1968 T120R
1972 T120RV
Any advice given is without a warranty expressed or implied.
#603620 - 06/08/15 4:31 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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Ger B Offline
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You do not need original tooling to produce a simple product.

You need to know original dimensions.


Ger B

#603684 - 06/09/15 3:14 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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With regards to the Triumph pipes, the type of tool used is more important. Anyone with a pipe bender from a muffler shop can bend up some pipes for a Triumph, but they'll look like most of the crap that has been offered to the public as replacement pips for our bikes. You only need to see the original Triumph pipes next to the 100$ pipes we've seen for the last 30 years to realize how superior the Harris pipes are in comparison. It doesn't matter if it's the original tooling, no, but the type of pipe bender that draws a pipe with perfect flow from tip to tip. No dips, no creases, no mandrel marks at all.

So, the pipes are drawn, not bent, and that makes all the difference.

Cheers,
Bill


Bikes
1974 Commando
1985 Honda Nighthawk 650
1957 Thunderbird/T110 "Flying Tiger"
Antique Fans: Loads of Emersons (Two six wingers) plus gyros and orbiters.
#603703 - 06/09/15 8:35 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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UK Berks
harris made loads of parts for Triumphs back when the factory was running, and made bikes on their own.
Triumph didn't make everything in house, and some companies are still running.

some of the other manufacturers on eBay have never seen a bike.

There was a programme on TV the "Million £ Jag" where the Jaguar Co. remade a series of E type specials.
They found the original press and dies to make a load of new panels.

so there are companies in tyne UK making pressed steel tanks on the original kit (apparently)
or a guy in India beating the cr*p out of a sheet of metal over a log.

#603720 - 06/09/15 10:55 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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Originally Posted By Redmoggy

So these are a few of my own experiences with my 66 650's, feel free to add more.

New production Lucas.

I have a stator and rotor fitted to my TR6 7 years ago. Only problem has been the wire insulation becoming brittle and cracking.

I have to rear lamps a 564 and a 679. Both exceed the quality of the cheaper alternatives and are very nicely made.

I have a 2 position ignition switch. Has a very nice positive feel (yet to be used on the road).

Exhausts and Silencers

Wiring harness. TMS (Autosparks) fitted perfectly. Not much else to say.


Rod



Few points.
New Production Lucas parts for motorcycles have only been instigated recently. If purchased 7 years ago, the rotor and stator would have to be either Original stock, or aftermarket with 'Lucas' stamped on them ,to stump up the price.

Same with the Rear lamps. Better than the cheaper aftermarket lamps I agree, but certainly not Genuine, as they haven't been made for years, and the ones I've seen bearing the Lucas mark, are nothing like the original lamps. Lucas haven't made any motorcycle rear lamps since the factory closed...

The 2 position ignition switch is an Automotive product. I have used them and they work fine.

I think you may be confusing 'New Production Lucas' with counterfeit aftermarket items stamped 'Lucas'.
Since 2003, all Genuine Lucas parts supplied into any market, automotive, lighting, motorcycle ,commercial etc, have been supplied in the Green packaging.

Exhausts and silencers... I share your pain. Without doubt the consistent bane of my life! I tend to use Armours, as when it's good, it's great...but etc etc

Wiring Harness. I agree on the Autosparks looms. Never had a problem with them.

#603794 - 06/09/15 5:59 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: Ger B]  
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Gnashville
Originally Posted By Ger B
You do not need original tooling to produce a simple product.

You need to know original dimensions.

You need to find machinists who can read 50-year old blueprints and measuring conventions.
Third-angle projection or first-angle? Bend up or down, at what angle, and what are the flat dimensions when the only drawing you have is of the formed piece?
Welcome to QC at a metal fabrication plant.


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
#604188 - 06/12/15 7:07 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: DavidP]  
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BrizzoBrit Online content
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For the LF Harris pipes, I was talking to the local Brit shop owner the other day. He said they have the original drawings. Dunno about tooling. He also said the LF Harris pipes were the best of those available and will fit correctly.

I DO NOT use any AMAL parts that dont come in the AMAL branded bag anymore. Too many shonky suppliers out there. There hard anodised slids are brilliant. Even better then the hard chromed brass ones I've used in the past.

Found the new Lucas parts to be good. Had cause to buy some headlights recently. Had a NOS Lucas shell and rim fitted for a crash repair at the local brit shop. Wanted to save that for my 'as original as possible' T120. Bought an EMGO replacement and it was much better chrome and finish overall. That surprised me. So, I'm gonna recommend the EMGO headlight shells.

Thats a start.

Ray


BSA 1969 A65F
BSA 1966 A65H
Triumph 1968 T120
Kawasaki A1R
& too many projects!
#604806 - 06/15/15 9:26 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: BrizzoBrit]  
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Originally Posted By BrizzoBrit

I DO NOT use any Amal parts that dont come in the Amal branded bag anymore. Too many shonky suppliers out there.

Same with Mikuni parts, too much crap out there. Must buy original.

Originally Posted By BrizzoBrit

So, I'm gonna recommend the EMGO headlight shells.

My new one looks good, so do the pipes I just bought. Their silencers are just OK, though. I use their 20" megas. I've had one where the baffles came loose, and they are not replaceable. The mounting slots also wallow out and loosen.
Also, like too many these days, their fork gators last about a month.
The only "original equipment" which ever disappointed me was a front rim. Once I ordered a new rim, but it was after Triumph had switched to Radelli rims. The chrome on the Italian rim started pitting after only a year. The 10-year old Jones rim looked better, but it had gotten bent.


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
#604817 - 06/15/15 10:03 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: DavidP]  
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Originally Posted By DavidP
[quote=BrizzoBrit]

The only "original equipment" which ever disappointed me was a front rim. Once I ordered a new rim, but it was after Triumph had switched to Radelli rims. The chrome on the Italian rim started pitting after only a year.


With Radaelli rims you get what you pay for. You save 1/4 to 1/3 in cost compared to more expensive chrome rims and get rims that rust through much faster. They sell because of their pricing point and then folks complain after voting with their wallet.

Peter


check out: www.bsaunitsingles.com
2500 BSA part numbers with inventory in stock just for the unit singles!
#604837 - 06/16/15 12:17 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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reverb Online content
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...sometime ago I bought a lever for the choke made by EMGO that is top quality. Best chrome that I ve seen in these type of bits.
The lady from UK that sells these products said that have quality but not until I saw it that I appreciate the quality.
I have the chromed piece that goes in the middle of the slim tanks and is perfect; Im not sure if its Emgo.
I have the rear 43 sprocket/drum by Emgo, that looks very good; however, is cheaper than the UK made due to not resist too much kms¿?
Brake and clutch levers from Emgo that are pretty good.

I had some AMAL spares that do not look AMAL purchased by one of the big sellers in Canada/US.

SS Spokes from Buchanans that are very high quality.
Cylinder barrels for T140E that I think are LF Harris new production that are good but seems not totally accurate.

#604846 - 06/16/15 3:18 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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R Moulding Online content
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Christchurch NZ

New twin pull twistgrip arrived today from AMAL. I already have the single pull type on my TR6 and to have this one for the Bonnie.

Since a picture (or two) paints a thousand words.









lovely jubbly

Rod

#617218 - 09/12/15 11:58 pm Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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R Moulding Online content
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Just fitted a new Lucas branded headlamp shell. Fitted the lens to rim and secured it using the correct screw and tag. Chrome plate immediate cracked and lifted around the screw. Really pissed off and disappointed.



Rod

#617238 - 09/13/15 4:25 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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Stuart Online content
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Hi Rod,

Originally Posted By Redmoggy
Just fitted a new Lucas branded headlamp shell. Fitted the lens to rim and secured it using the correct screw and tag. Chrome plate immediate cracked and lifted around the screw.

When Wassell announced they'd secured a licence to brand their Lucas pattern parts (and rushed out several websites with "Lucas" in the address ...), I posted wondering whether Wassell quality would rise to previous Lucas standards or "Lucas" quality would fall to previous Wassell standards ...

While it's too late this time, fwiw even with original Lucas shells, simply to avoid any scratches in the chrome from the screw head, I put a 3/16" white nylon washer under the screw head. Original screws were pan head so the washer is virtually invisible.

Regards,

#617245 - 09/13/15 4:58 am Re: Parts, good and bad [Re: R Moulding]  
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R Moulding Online content
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Hi Stuart.

I've had some reasonable Lucas stuff lately so decided to take a punt on the shell. Seems at least in this case the Wassel reputation for crap remains intact. I like the idea of the nylon washer and will look into it. I dont think it would have helped in this instance though as the chrome has lifted as opposed to being scratched. Now I've drilled it for idiot lamps it's probably worth me spending the money to have it chromed properly.

S$it happens

Rod

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