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#573448 - 11/23/14 1:31 am Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good?  
Joined: Dec 2001
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T100Mark Offline
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T100Mark  Offline
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Southern California
I'm nearing completion of my 1972 Commando (stock, Boyer Brandsen, with turn signals). Emgo offers two different single phase, two wire stators (and a single rotor). The standard stator offers "more" wattage than stock. The more powerful stator offers 200 watts. Does anyone have experience with either of these units? Are there any other (reasonably priced) options?


2013 Ducati Monster 1100
1974 Harley Davidson Sportster
1970 Triumph T100 Cafe Racer
1972 Norton Commando
2003 Honda XR250R (for me)
2002 Honda XR250R (for Moto Boy)
www.zcmmotorsports.com
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#573481 - 11/23/14 10:36 am Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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Dave Comeau Offline
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Hamilton, Mass. USA
Originally Posted By: T100Mark
I'm nearing completion of my 1972 Commando (stock, Boyer Brandsen, with turn signals). Emgo offers two different single phase, two wire stators (and a single rotor). The standard stator offers "more" wattage than stock. The more powerful stator offers 200 watts. Does anyone have experience with either of these units? Are there any other (reasonably priced) options?


The 120 watt is stock commando and the 180 watt is stock MKIII commando.
I recommend you put in what satisfies the electrical power requirements you plan to use. All excess power is just burned off as heat. Aftermarket makers use their own definition of power capability and therefore you have slightly different numbers.
One of the biggest considerations is gearbox sprocket size which directly controls engine RPM which is your main consideration for actual power generation. If you put a 21T sprocket, the 180W may keep the battery up better.
6-8 years ago I tore a few of them apart and IIRC, the six bobbin stators are mainly 95(approx) turns of 20G per bobbin put in a series of 3. Repeat for the other 3...add a few more turns with one size bigger wire for the 180W.


dynodave
BSA 3 1961-1963
Ducati 3 1992-2002
Norton many 1951-1975
87 Serv-Equip 100HP MC brake dynamometer,
#573489 - 11/23/14 11:08 am Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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John Healy Online content
John Healy  Online Content


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Mark you have to ask the question why do I need a higher output stator than the one engineers spec'ed for your bike. Is it because you have more accessories, like a higher wattage headlamp bulb or are you riding the motorcycle in such a way that the standard wattage alternator does not reach the required output as designed. If it is the later you would be better served with a three phase unit.

If you have not changed the demand the electrical system puts on the alternator, and ride the bike as the engineers expected it to be ridden, there is no need to put in a higher output stator. All that extra energy will just be directed by the regulator to ground in the form of heat. If for what ever reason you choose to ride the bike at an average rpm below what the engineers expected then it is reasonable to change the stator, but I would be looking at a three phase rather than a higher output single phase. The higher output single phase still would have to be ridden in an rpm range higher than the three phase to get similar output.

Even though Full Wave rectifiers use both halves of the single phase alternator's AC output, the DC it creates is said to be intermittent. The voltage of DC output mirrors the AC used to create it. That is there are periods of no voltage and periods of maximum voltage. But being DC it will still charge the battery. With three phase stators the three individual low and high outputs over lap each other. So even though there is a variation in output voltage it is not considered intermittent. Thus at low rpm's with the three phase stator there is more energy to charge the battery at lower a rpm.

We are spoiled by our cars. Unlike the the typical car alternator where the alternator has an externally excited variable wire wound magnetic rotor, and a big enough engine to power it at idle, our systems used a fixed magnetic rotor and barely idle as it is. So with our cars if we need to charge the battery at idle the regulator just sends more energy to the wire wound rotor increasing its magnetic field. With our fixed magnetic rotor the only way to increase the output is to increase the engine speed. Of course all of this assumes that your rotor has not lost any magnetism over time as it is the rotor where stator output is normally lost.


#573549 - 11/23/14 7:01 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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NickL Online content
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If you do fit the larger output stator, don't forget you will probably need a larger regulator or a dual zener pair/comparable rectifier regulator device.



#573584 - 11/23/14 11:34 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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T100Mark Offline
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T100Mark  Offline
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Southern California
Dave/John/Nick:

Thank you, all, for your excellent input. I'm leaning towards the Emgo stators due to cost and simplicity (I know where to put the two wires). I'm running a 22 tooth sprocket. Also, I currently have a 35/35 watt H4 halogen headlamp. I'm leaning towards installing the 180 watt stator and going to a halogen H4 60/55 watt headlamp (for safety reasons). Good plan?


2013 Ducati Monster 1100
1974 Harley Davidson Sportster
1970 Triumph T100 Cafe Racer
1972 Norton Commando
2003 Honda XR250R (for me)
2002 Honda XR250R (for Moto Boy)
www.zcmmotorsports.com
#573598 - 11/24/14 4:33 am Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: John Healy]  
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Stuart Online content
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Hi Mark,

Based on some five years' experience with the original 120W alternator and thirty-two years experience with 180W 3-phase alternators, have to say John's post wasn't up to his usual standard.

Originally Posted By: John Healy
you have to ask the question why do I need a higher output stator than the one engineers spec'ed for your bike.

If you're talking about the 120W stator, "engineers" didn't "spec" the stator for the bike, it was the cheapest the bike maker could get away with, along with the useless BPF headlamp. At the same time as British bike makers were palming off buyers with this rubbish, the Japanese competition were fitting proper 3-phase alternators with a decent output, albeit their headlamps were crap too.

Originally Posted By: John Healy
and ride the bike as the engineers expected it to be ridden, there is no need to put in a higher output stator.

When I bought my first triple, with standard 120W stator and Lucas headlamp with 45/40 BPF bulb, I rode it everywhere from a steady 5,500 rpm (85 mph) cruise to stop-go city traffic. No "engineers" can possibly not have anticipated these conditions. The stator output was crap in stop-go city traffic, the headlamp was crap much above about 50 mph at night. frown My previous bike had been a Honda 250 with a much-more-powerful 3-phase alternator, that gave absolutely no concerns under any conditions I chose to ride the bike; whether or not "engineers" had envisaged any given condition was simply not a concern.

Originally Posted By: John Healy
All that extra energy will just be directed by the regulator to ground in the form of heat.

laughing If you're concerned about energy being wasted as heat, don't use an air-cooled engine ... the engine gets wa-aa-ay hotter than any Zener heatsink or similar. A single horsepower is some 760 Watts, any high-output stator that fits in place of the original Lucas produces no more than a piffling fraction of that, even a high-output stator has to supply 40W to the ignition, plus any lights you choose to ride with illuminated. As I say, millions of people have ridden millions of miles on millions of certainly Japanese and Italian bikes without excess electrical energy being turned into heat being of any concern whatsoever.

Originally Posted By: John Healy
I would be looking at a three phase rather than a higher output single phase.

The one thing I agree with in John's post. Connection isn't an issue - a single-phase stator has two cables that can be connected to the rect./reg. either way 'round, a 3-phase stator has three cables, that can be connected to a (3-phase) rect./reg. any way 'round ...

Originally Posted By: John Healy
We are spoiled by our cars.

No, we aren't. Contemporary bikes other than British had standard alternators that only Britbike owners consider "high-output" due to the laughably low output of the standard alternator new Britbike owners were fobbed off with.

Go with a high-output stator, and perhaps a new rotor, now and never have any concerns about electrical capacity in the future. Only other thing I'd add is the ones I have that have never given any trouble are Lucas, available new now, just more expensive than pattern.

Hth.

Regards,

#573651 - 11/24/14 1:01 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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John Healy Online content
John Healy  Online Content


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Boston, Massachusetts
Quote:
Based on some five years' experience with the original 120W alternator and thirty-two years experience with 180W 3-phase alternators, have to say John's post wasn't up to his usual standard.


With almost ten years of reading Stuart's structured responses I have never seen him miss the point so badly. There might be excuse if he didn't read Mark's last post, but I must believe he did. In fact when he did get around to answering Mark's question he ran out of steam. IMHO given what Mark wrote he doesn't need a high output stator, but a three phase stator. Whether it be a high output can be debated. This all depends upon how the motorcycle is being ridden.

Why do I say this. the dead give away is 22 tooth sprocket. The system was designed, and as good as one could expect given the economic circumstances in England vs Japan at the time, using a 19 tooth sprocket.

Quote:
When I bought my first triple, with standard 120W stator and Lucas headlamp with 45/40 BPF bulb, I rode it everywhere from a steady 5,500 rpm (85 mph) cruise to stop-go city traffic. No "engineers" can possibly not have anticipated these conditions.


There was no anticipation, but the selection of test riders with different riding styles. Not all of the riders were expert road racers like Percy Tait. Many were selected just because they were exactly opposite. If only all of the people reading this rode like you we would not be having this conversation! But I am here to tell you, as this population ages, they dont!!

One of the points I was trying to make is, in a world where many modern alternators have rotors with variably excited magnetic fields even the experts fail to understand that for a given alternator, be it low or high output, the only thing variable in our system is rpm. The only other way you can change this is other than increasing the overall average rpm you ride at is to install a three phase system. For an equal three phase as compared to a single you won't get more output, a 10 amp three phase will not put out more than a 10 amp single phase. It is just that the three phase will give you more output at lower rpm. Thus Mark, with his 22 tooth sprocket would be better served with a three phase, unless he is inspired to ride like Percy Tait. Percy was know for passing other test riders going over the ton, tapping their arm as he flew past.

In the days before Lucas provided a 3 phase stator/regulator we sold TR6R models modified for city police work. The first thing we had to do is swap out the 19 tooth transmission sprocket for a 16. Failing this, the batteries would go flat because the riders had years of experience riding Harleys. No amount of explanation would get them to shift into a lower gear. They putted around the city in high gear seldom reaching 2,500 rpm. Yes the overall gearing and stator output was (must be) balanced for the load and anticipated use. Those Lucas/Triumph engineers were not stupid... thrifty, YES, but stupid NO!

The question now is should he get a low, or high, output three phase? Only Mark can answer this question - and while we do ride air cooled motorcycles not all people are wise enough to place the regulator in a place where it will get some airflow to cool it. We are not writing this blog to the initiated. While a regulator might be labeled to handle 200 watts put out by the high output stator, it isn't going to last long in parts of the world where ambient air temperature reaches 110F plus and the regulator is tucked inside his cool "electrical box!"


#573653 - 11/24/14 1:34 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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kommando Online content
kommando  Online Content


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Scotland
I used a Norton 850 1974 Commando for a 10 mile commute each way through Birmingham in the early 80's for a few years and ran a 60/55W headlamp and a 21T gearbox sprocket. The battery needed charging every evening in the winter until I upgraded to a 3 phase alternator. A B25 on the same route with the same headlamp ran with a single phase alternator with no charging required.

The difference was the revs of the engines.

#573656 - 11/24/14 1:43 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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Dave Comeau Offline
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Dave Comeau  Offline

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Hamilton, Mass. USA
Originally Posted By: T100Mark
Dave/John/Nick:

Thank you, all, for your excellent input. I'm leaning towards the Emgo stators due to cost and simplicity (I know where to put the two wires). I'm running a 22 tooth sprocket. Also, I currently have a 35/35 watt H4 halogen headlamp. I'm leaning towards installing the 180 watt stator and going to a halogen H4 60/55 watt headlamp (for safety reasons). Good plan?


Jeez keep your head down...
Power utilization up headlight daytime?, Not sure which "Boyer" you have MKIII analog-NO, Microdigital???, Micro Power-NO, new MKIV analog blue box?Low voltage stable?
5 amps for light, 2.5amps? for analog Boyer(totally dependent on coil used)
I would also recommend 180W 3 phase not single phase 180/200W.
I'm aware you don't have a MKIII but...
I have a 21T and just got a Podtronics to finally upgrade my MKIII to 3 phase. I am not a "Ricky racer" guy on this commando but use it like a touring bike. After all that is what commandos are...IMO
With the correct MKIII size AGM battery you don't want to run around with a half charged battery. The first year I put the 60/55 watt headlight and rode at daytona which is a day time headlight state it finally would not start even with the single phase 180W.


Last edited by Dave Comeau; 11/24/14 1:48 pm.

dynodave
BSA 3 1961-1963
Ducati 3 1992-2002
Norton many 1951-1975
87 Serv-Equip 100HP MC brake dynamometer,
#573794 - 11/25/14 12:09 am Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: Dave Comeau]  
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Stuart Online content
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Stuart  Online Content
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Hi John,

Originally Posted By: John Healy
I have never seen him miss the point so badly. There might be excuse if he didn't read Mark's last post, but I must believe he did. In fact when he did get around to answering Mark's question he ran out of steam.

Originally Posted By: Dave Comeau
Jeez keep your head down...

smile Not at all. Mark's post immediately before my last one seemed eminently sensible.

Originally Posted By: John Healy
IMHO given what Mark wrote he doesn't need a high output stator, but a three phase stator. Whether it be a high output can be debated. This all depends upon how the motorcycle is being ridden.

Mmmm ... but that's exactly my point.

The 'low-output' 3-phase produces exactly the same @ 5,000 rpm as the single-phase RM21 - 10.5 Amps aka 120 Watts; it's sole (alleged) advantage lies in Lucas's claim that 3-phase produce 85% of rated at 2,400 rpm whereas single-phase produce only 75% - which amounts to about one extra Amp. frown Otoh, even the high-output single-phase produces 3 Amps more @ 2,400 rpm - far more use in stop-go low-rpm traffic than 1 Amp?

So MHO, based on my experience, was at the end of my previous post - "Go with a high-output stator, and perhaps a new rotor,".

Originally Posted By: John Healy
the dead give away is 22 tooth sprocket. The system was designed ... using a 19 tooth sprocket.

This reinforces my point - we are now the thick end of half-a-century away from the parameters and limitations applicable when "the system was designed". Some of those parameters and limitations don't apply, others (e.g. cost) need not apply and new ones apply that weren't envisaged when "the system was designed". Fit what would be a 'normal output' alternator on any bike made in any other country and not worry; any one of the high-output stators will let Mark fit a "22-tooth sprocket" as that's what floats his boat.

Originally Posted By: John Healy
Originally Posted By: Stuart
When I bought my first triple, with standard 120W stator and Lucas headlamp with 45/40 BPF bulb, I rode it everywhere from a steady 5,500 rpm (85 mph) cruise to stop-go city traffic. No "engineers" can possibly not have anticipated these conditions.

There was no anticipation, but the selection of test riders with different riding styles. Not all of the riders were expert road racers like Percy Tait. Many were selected just because they were exactly opposite.

Whether "engineers" or "test riders" doesn't matter; Percy cannot conceivably have come back from a night ride and said, "the standard headlamp's fine"; his exact opposite cannot have come back from a night ride around Birmingham or Coventry and said, "the standard alternator's fine at low rpm". Whatever the "engineers" or "test riders" said, the production accountant(s) screwed the lowest-price components out of Lucas. frown What would've been laughable if it hadn't been so sad was, when NVT was making the electric-start T160 and Commando effectively side-by-side, it was fitting a 'high-output' alternator and decent 60/55 q-h headlamp on the much slower bike! crazy

Originally Posted By: John Healy
It is just that the three phase will give you more output at lower rpm. Thus Mark, with his 22 tooth sprocket would be better served with a three phase,

Which is where we both agree and disagree; as I've written above, even a high-output single-phase will give more actual Amps at low rpm than a low-output 3-phase; ime, he should go for both high-output and 3-phase. smile

Originally Posted By: Dave Comeau

I've been curious about the lower ("RM21") curve in that advert. for many years. confused The ad. says single-phase produces "75% of full output" @ 2,400 rpm, 75% of 10.5A is 7.875A but, at 2,400 rpm on the graph, the "RM21" curve is at just below 9A? confused

Hth.

Regards,

#573881 - 11/25/14 2:18 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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Adam M. Online content
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Adam M.  Online Content
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Mississauga, Ontario.
Guys, you write the same story from different points of view - every british bike needs 3 phase alternator, could be low output ( 10A ) but 3 phase.
I use 200W emgo one phase + tympanium, with 55/45 bulb its not enough in city driving with 20 tooth sprocket. Too many intersections / traffic jams and your level of charge goes down like a stone.
I installed voltmeter in my lamp to see it.
With this alternator I wouldn't change the bulb from halogen 45 / 35 at all.

#574010 - 11/26/14 8:24 am Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: Adam M.]  
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Stuart Online content
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Hi Adam,

Originally Posted By: Adam M.
I use 200W emgo one phase + tympanium, with 55/45 bulb its not enough in city driving with 20 tooth sprocket. Too many intersections / traffic jams and your level of charge goes down like a stone.
With this alternator I wouldn't change the bulb from halogen 45 / 35 at all.

I fitted my T160's with the Lucas high-output 3-phase because I considered 60/55 q-h inadequate for riding at night at the speeds I was quite happy to ride in daylight, so I intended the bikes would have either 100/55 or twin 60/55. With the Lucas high-output 3-phase (14.5 Amps, aka 180 Watts, @ 5,000 rpm), the bikes have been like that since the early 1980's ...

BUT ...

I don't use even the 55W dip in "city driving ... Too many intersections / traffic jams"; I also use 20W q-h pilot bulbs and they give more than adequate light for "city driving". Ime, dip (or main) is (necessarily) too focussed to make the bike visible except from directly ahead, which isn't where most of the moving hazards (including pop-up peddies) come from. And, in a country where lane-splitting (riding between lines of stopped cars, vans, trucks, etc.) is legal, dip on a motorcycle is brilliantly angled to dazzle most other drivers in their wing mirrors, so they can't judge your distance and/or you piss them off! crazy

If your bike's electrics have the 3-position lights switch, it'll turn the pilot off when the headlamp's on and vice versa. But, with a high-output alternator, ime it doesn't matter if the pilot stays on.

Hth.

Regards,

#574030 - 11/26/14 11:25 am Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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Adam M. Online content
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Adam M.  Online Content
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Mississauga, Ontario.
Unfortunately Stuart I can't find any lamp here ( Toronto ) with halogen bulb + pilot.
They are without pilot, or it could be original Lucas with original bulb holder.

#574055 - 11/26/14 1:58 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: Adam M.]  
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Stuart Online content
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Hi Adam,

Originally Posted By: Adam M.
I can't find any lamp here ( Toronto ) with halogen bulb + pilot.
They are without pilot, or it could be original Lucas with original bulb holder.

You're looking for a bog-(automotive-)standard 7" diameter round lens/reflector; there are simply hundreds of makers all over the world making these, because they've been a bog-(automotive-)standard for decades.

Ideally, your chosen lens/reflector will take a bog-(automotive-)standard P43t main/dip bulb - P43t is preferable to P45t (the other bog-(automotive-)standard bulb type) because, while both P43t and P45t bulbs are available in 60/55 q-h, only P43t is available in 100/55, P45t is 100/80.

Your chosen lens/reflector should also have a pilot bulb holder that takes a bayonet-fit (as opposed to a 'wedge') bulb; the pilot bulb will almost certainly then be a bog-(automotive-)standard BA9s bulb, for which you can buy a quartz-halogen version drawing around 20W-23W.

Finally, ideally you're looking for a lens intended for motorcycles, as opposed to cars, vans, trucks. Q-h headlamp bulb with pilot was an option on Commandos, Lucas supplied the lamp; late Co-op twins were originally fitted with a Lucas lens/reflector, that took a P45t bulb; hopefully, Lucas have superseded them with a lens/reflector that takes the P43t bulb. So a Norton or Meriden Triumph parts dealer should be able to help you out.

Hth.

Regards,

#574119 - 11/26/14 8:27 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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Adam M. Online content
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Adam M.  Online Content
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Mississauga, Ontario.
Thank you Stuart, I'll ask around about such a reflector.

#574216 - 11/27/14 6:07 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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Howard Inough Offline
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Howard Inough  Offline
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Kensington, New Hampshire, USA
'74 850, running a stock Lucas single phase, rectifier and zener, 45/45 halogen lamp on ALL the time for safety, 9ah AGM battery, 22T sprocket, Boyer, turn signal (stealth voltmeter). 3 years, 20,000 miles and the battery hasn't needed topping up yet. (Battery Tender connected, turns solid green in 5 mins.) I tend to short shift and luxuriate in the torque.. YMMV

Last edited by Howard Inough; 11/27/14 6:08 pm.
#574219 - 11/27/14 6:40 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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A 45 watt headlamp makes for 'interesting' night riding eh? What radar/sonar set do you use?



#574231 - 11/27/14 8:50 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
Joined: Aug 2001
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Richrd Online content
Richrd  Online Content


Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,478
Springfield Nebraska
I just put a LED in one of my bikes, pulls 3.6 amp on high beam, is a straight drop in ( with the h4 plug) and lights up the whole town.

got it from NAPA and will be getting one or two more.


Rich (member ThreeMustGetBeers)
"It's not always about going fast. Sometimes it's nice to slow down" (Wendy E.2016)

69 bonney
72 commando
75 commando interstate
06 Suzu..Suzu.. uh appliance
couple of beesas a ducati
and the Snake Bike
#574234 - 11/27/14 9:07 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: Richrd]  
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kevin roberts Online content
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kevin roberts  Online Content

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ohio, usa

wait

positive or negative ground?


Into the distance a ribbon of black
Stretched to the point of no turning back
A flight of fancy on a windswept field
Standing alone my senses reeled
A fatal attraction is holding me fast how
How can I escape this irresistible grasp?
#574313 - 11/28/14 9:24 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
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Richrd Online content
Richrd  Online Content


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Springfield Nebraska
kev, you talking to me?

my led is neg ground but all internal so all I had to do was reverse the leads.


Rich (member ThreeMustGetBeers)
"It's not always about going fast. Sometimes it's nice to slow down" (Wendy E.2016)

69 bonney
72 commando
75 commando interstate
06 Suzu..Suzu.. uh appliance
couple of beesas a ducati
and the Snake Bike
#574314 - 11/28/14 9:29 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,314
NickL Online content
BritBike Forum member
NickL  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,314
Aus
These new fangled things are beyond me eh?



#574323 - 11/28/14 10:40 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: Richrd]  
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 3,267
kevin roberts Online content
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kevin roberts  Online Content

BritBike Forum member

Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 3,267
ohio, usa
Originally Posted By: Richrd
kev, you talking to me?

my led is neg ground but all internal so all I had to do was reverse the leads.


ah yes i was

all the two-lead LEDs i've tried out on my positive ground triumph don't work that way.

you said you bought auto-parts store LEDs, so i was surprised they worked for you.


Into the distance a ribbon of black
Stretched to the point of no turning back
A flight of fancy on a windswept field
Standing alone my senses reeled
A fatal attraction is holding me fast how
How can I escape this irresistible grasp?
#574363 - 11/29/14 10:45 am Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: kevin roberts]  
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 664
Beach Online content
BritBike Forum member
Beach  Online Content

BritBike Forum member

Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 664
West Virginia, United States
I ordered 2 of these for my Norton Commando and Atlas and they work great..Bright white light and positive or negative ground compatible...You must buy an H4 compatible headlamp shell if you don't have one..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111352030430? _

There is more info in this post on AccessNorton site

http://www.accessnorton.com/permanent-so...eadlamp#p267966


Bill
1974 Norton Commando
1966 Lightning
1965 Lightning Rocket
1966 Norton Atlas
1967 Norton Atlas
1948 Panhead
#574693 - 12/01/14 9:01 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: T100Mark]  
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,478
Richrd Online content
Richrd  Online Content


Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,478
Springfield Nebraska
Kev, I just ordered another. they are three lead, hi /lo/gnd. so I just had to switch the wires to my plug. they're a touch pricy but it's nice to see at night.


Rich (member ThreeMustGetBeers)
"It's not always about going fast. Sometimes it's nice to slow down" (Wendy E.2016)

69 bonney
72 commando
75 commando interstate
06 Suzu..Suzu.. uh appliance
couple of beesas a ducati
and the Snake Bike
#575732 - 12/09/14 5:58 pm Re: Emgo Stator/Rotor. Any good? [Re: Richrd]  
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 15
Mick-F Offline
BritBike Forum member
Mick-F  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 15
Haverhill MA
Originally Posted By: Richrd
kev, you talking to me?

my led is neg ground but all internal so all I had to do was reverse the leads.


I installed one of these:

Truck-Lite 27270C 7" Round LED Headlight

..fits right in the rim and shell, plug it right in. It works with positive or negative ground. I called the manufacturer and they confirmed that polarity is not a consideration. On high beam it really lights up the road with a nice white light.
I found one on eBay for $166.00, delivered. They have no cooling fan, I had it on in my shop for about 15 minutes, no heat. Some of the plug in "bulb" types LEDs have fans.

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