Forks. BSA. 441. Victor. I am SURE this has been covered in this forum before, but I cannot find the right combination of key words and tricky phrases to make the search engine pay off. Can anyone provide a starting point for finding info on swapping/changing/upgrading Victor front forks from the stock items? Ceriani? Yamaha? Oneida? Others?
I've put Ceriani forks and Betor forks on B44s and similar framed unit singles. They definitely improve the suspension and riding experience anywhere the roads are less than smooth. Problem is that none are a simple swap. Issues such as steering stem length and diameter, bearings and races, ball bearing vs tapered bearings, steering stops on the frame will need to be heavily altered or added, what wheel to use, how to adapt the wheel spindle and spacers to the chosen forks, and so on. Now I usually recommend finding a complete front end you like (forks & wheel) and then you just have to adapt how it mounts to the headstock. Of course you have to find forks that are the correct length and look for the bike. Just wish there was a magic upgrade to make the old Victor forks dampen alot better even with their limited travel.
Steve - wow - didn't know one could access the data that way via Google. One lives, one learns!!
Per B - thanks for the steer to RaceTech - I will keep them in mind.
Per B and Peter - I appreciate your advice on difficulty. Without having the units side-by-side for comparison, I had no good idea of difficulty. I have always heard people say " . . . and I replaced the BSA forks with Cerianis . . . " and assumed maybe it wasn't all that difficult. ( I am pretty good with a wrench, but not so much with machining. Also very reluctant to hire out my work. USA Hillbilly mentality, I suppose.)
Anyway - I will keep your guidance in mind. If I progress down this path, I will post back some photos and info to the forum.
O.G.: Click on and read the "Advanced Search Tips" link in the search window of the britbike search. It works! Google works as well. Just put in site:britbike.com before your search terms and it will only search the britibike site.
I have a set of Betor forks off a can-am on my C15 MX bike and have to say these are a great improvement over the rod damper forks. One advantage of these is that you can adjust the rake. As stated above, though, you need a lathe to adapt them properly. I can provide details if needed.
A smattering: '53 Gold Flash '67 Royal Star '71 Rickman Metisse '40 Silver Star '37 Rudge Special sixtyseventy Lightboltrocket road racer...and many more.
Re: Fork Upgrade - 441 Victor
[Re: Per B]
#562562 09/10/143:51 pm09/10/143:51 pm
Racetech is selling a version of their damper valve for the B44
Racetech's general description of how the valve is fitted seems to be incompatible with a B44 fork, so there must be some adapter involved. Interesting stuff. Per, if you try these valves you must tell us!
This is not a tip but....I use 30wt or 20wt regular oil LOL! little leaking and really stiffens up the front end. It will not break anything in an emergency where fork oil is not available and the 30wt works good in engine as well. S
I had the same thing on my Victor GP a few years ago. I first tried some CZ MX forks but they bottomed out too much for me (I am 15-1/2 stone so need something substantial). I then got a pair of 35mm Ceriani with matching yokes, these were a bit better but still a bit light weight for me. Then tried a pair of late BSA/Triumph 4 bolt forks. These worked great with no problems at all and I was completely happy.
I do have a lathe but I don't remember having to do much to fit any of the above forks apart from the odd shim or spacer.
I have adapted clones of Racetech valves to B44 forks, the Racetech scheme is flawed in that there is no internal spring to hold the valve down against the top of the damper body which is they way they do it in other forks. It also does not seal on the OD so oil is not directed into the valve. My alternative is to mount the valve on the end of an alloy rod screwed into the top fork nut and with a custom OD with groove for a X ring all the oil goes through the valve. It acts very well as an anti dive and also gets rid of a 1/4" first movement no damping zone plus increases the damping at low fork movement speeds when you need it and release the increased damping on fast deflections. I also turn one of the valves upside down to act as a rebound damper and change the port sizes so one valve give the same damping as 2 valves. So one leg on the brake side give compression damping with anti dive and rebound damping on the non brake side. The point at which the damping changes from high to low is adjustable by removing the fork top nuts.
I've got 2 Victors with Cerranni forks both use the Arces triple trees. They use the cerranni adjustable stem. Makes the bikes handle real well even in some quick dirt ridin. Both are the 35mm tubes. One thing is you gotta find a front wheel to fit the axle size.
So Keith...when you say "4 bolt" do you mean the axle clamp bolts? And what wheel and brake did you use? Thanks,
Yes the 4 bolt bottom cap ones. I used the original GP wheel with shims and spacers to suit. As I had to make a torque arm and drill a hole in the brake plate to fit it I didn't use my original brake plate as the GP one is unique with extra strengtheners on it.
I have a B25 Scrambler that has the same forks (with Falcon rear shocks) and I can honestly say it is the best handling off road bike that I have ever ridden. Neither I nor anyone else who has ridden it can fault it. (and I'm still 16 stone).