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#357699 - 02/11/11 9:22 pm Opinions Please! 1975 T160  
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Swa Boy Offline
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Las Vegas, NV.
I have found what I believe to be a very good example of a 1975 Triumph Trident T160. It is a "Rider" and with a little effort, I think it can be polished up to be real showoff bike. I have wanted a 1975 T160 and would like to solicited opinions as what to look for on this beauty aside from the obvious. Also, the value is subjective and I already have somewhat of an emotional attachment. So if possible with the understanding that sight unseen, a range of what you think this bike would be a good buy at $$$. Thanks in advance for any and all opinions in this matter.

Owner comment: "A Vintage, all Original except CDI and Restored by 2 specialty shops. (*Shop(s) name is given but deleted here)

restored the motorcycle totaling over $4,000. Bike has been garage kept, plated and ridden for one year after restore."





Last edited by Swa Boy; 02/11/11 9:23 pm.

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#357732 - 02/12/11 12:58 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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SwaBo -

T160's certainly seem to be the most desirable of the Triumph triples with the canted engine and disc brakes...

If John, Stuart or some other knowledgeable triple guy doesn't speak up here, you might have better luck posting this on the 'The Triple Board' in the British Motorcycles in General section.....

Isn't CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) similar to ET (energy transfer)?

Steve


'77 T140J
"Vintage Bike". What's in your garage?

"The paying customer is always right."

Fitting round pegs into square holes since 1961...
#357738 - 02/12/11 1:50 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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hamilton on. can.
Triples tend to become a classic owners favorite bike or their least favorite. They represent the best, and worst of British engineering. In the hands of a good owner a well sorted out triple is a treat. Give me a Norton for low end torque and a triple for top end RUSH!!!

#357741 - 02/12/11 2:04 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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It looks nice in the pictures.

The only real weakness of the BSA / Triumph triples is the valve rocker geometry. The guides and valve stems tend to wear pretty badly.

Apparently T160 primary chains are now almost totally unobtainable, so check that and / or factor in the cost of a belt drive conversion.

The starter motors can apparently be a weak point as well.See how well it handles a cold start. 4 brush starters are available and apparently work much better, but aren't cheap.

Some T160s had a rather restricted centre exhaust port, so you may need to open that out.

Find out what ignition it's been fitted with. The Lucas Rita was the go many years ago, but are no longer made. Boyers fire all 3 plugs at once, so you need 4V coils. Most of the triple guys swear by Steve Kelly's Tri-Spark systems. These are sequential (fire on plug at a time) and have some additional electrical wizardry to make things more civilised.

Throw away those chromed discs - they're utterly useless in the wet. Buy unplated cast iron discs.

The mufflers seem non-standard, so check the jetting. T160s came with bean cans, which were very restrictive.

I'm not sure about US prices. Nice T160s seem to have asking prices around $A 12000 and up over here, which is why I don't have one smile

Work on the basis of having to spend $1500 to get it "right" (Tri-Spark, new discs, belt drive), new tyres

#357811 - 02/12/11 3:35 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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Hi,

My first 'big' bike was a T160 - it was my 21st and graduation present to myself, bought when I couldn't spend all my salary in the month! Over thirty years later, I still have it and another T160 (and eight other bikes ...); it's given me great pleasure grin but it has also sorely, sorely tried my and my bank manager's patience. cry However, when they finally come for me, I'll still have to decide between the bike and the kids ... smirk

Most important thing I'd say is, it doesn't matter what "speciality shops" have 'restored', unless they're well-known triple (and those three words are very important) specialists, what you're buying is unknown. Triples are absolutely not twins and, even if someone can put a twin together well, they can (and do) make a right pig's ear of a triple.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
The guides and valve stems tend to wear pretty badly.

Ye-ea-ah, but if you only do one or two thousand miles a year, it should be many years before any problem actually manifests itself.

And this is a good test of how 'speciality' the 'shops' are - triple top end problems have been well-known since God was a lad, you do not slap in standard valve parts if you're a triple specialist.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
T160 primary chains are now almost totally unobtainable,

The bald statement is true. Unfortunately, particularly T160 primaries appear to wear quickly at first, so owners and mechanics extrapolated that and thought the chain needed changing before it does, because the wear rate slows down.

Again, a proper triple specialist will know this, and will have spent time checking primary sprocket alignment properly, because misalignment during initial manufacture was more prevalent on T160's than earlier triples.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
The starter motors can apparently be a weak point as well.
4 brush starters are available

Uh-uh, getting mixed up with Mk.3 Commandos, which have an entirely different starter.

There's no such thing as a 4-brush Lucas T160 starter because a) I believe the thing is already 4-brush and b) there was never a general problem with T160 starters.

If a T160 has a problem with the starter, it's a problem with that bike. We're talking about a 36-year-old motorcycle, so the starter might need a dismantle and a clean. The 36-year-old solenoid and/or starter relay (both obtainable) might need replacing. The standard starter and earth cables were a bit thin and can be replaced inexpensively with much beefier modern stuff. The starter needs at least a good-make 11Ah battery, or at least 12Ah if the electronic ignition's a Boyer-Bransden. Also, the standard charging system is a bit marginal for electric-starting from cold if you do too many short journeys.

Btw, talking of earth/ground cables, a T160 should never have the thin Red cables connected to the battery; if the thick earth/ground cable ever breaks or becomes otherwise disconnected, operating the starter will complete the circuit through the thin Red cables, with guess-what results. sick As standard, the Red cables are also connected to a head bolt or stud; disconnecting and taping up the battery connection leaves the thick cable as the only earth/ground connection to the battery.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
Find out what ignition it's been fitted with.

Absolutely. There's no such thing (at least commonly-available) as a CDI ignition for a triple. The bike hasn't got a Rita because the trigger unit won't fit under the standard points cover, which the bike has. The other common e.i. for a triple is a Boyer-Bransden, which'll give you trouble sooner rather than later. frown

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
Boyers fire all 3 plugs at once, so you need 4V coils.

True, but if you're investing the cost of new decent 4V coils (Steve Kelly and British Spares in NZ do 'em), you might as well shell out for a Trispark (which doesn't need 4V coils).

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
chromed discs - they're utterly useless in the wet.

And how often will you be riding in the rain in Las Vegas, NV? wink Seriously, entirely-chromed discs are ok in the wet but, once the chrome starts to wear off, then they're 'useless'. However, no need to buy new discs; simply have someone who grinds car discs grind off the chrome and bolt 'em back on.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
The mufflers seem non-standard,

Certainly the one on the left appears to be a standard 'black cap'.

Also, thinking about it, I don't agree about 'em being restrictive - one of the British press test bikes was timed at 126mph (one way) by one magazine while the other one was only a few mph slower. True, these bikes' engines had been hand-built by the guys in NVT Engineering (essentially the same guys that'd done the triple racers in '70 and '71). However, taking the wider picture of all the contemporary road tests, the pattern is of engines that go out of tune relatively quickly when thraped unmercifully, which has a noticeable effect on performance.

That said, plenty of information on alternatives; even if you like the standard look, certainly Viking Exhausts have several variations and, like Steve 'Mr. Trispark' Kelly, Paul of Viking is a T160 owner.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
Work on the basis of having to spend $1500

Hmmm. If the current owner's ridden it for a year since the restore (try and find out how many actual miles he's ridden), I'd be inclined to simply get on it and ride it and decide what needs/you want to 'fix'.

Hopefully, the current owner's run the engine in properly - i.e. plenty of revs. all the time; otherwise you're looking at at least rehoning the cylinders and replacing the rings (and all the gaskets and seals to get that far frown ).

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
Tri-Spark,

If the existing e.i. gives you trouble.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
new discs,

Mho given above.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
belt drive

Possibly. Even if the standard primary does need replacing, there are other alternatives.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
new tyres

Originally, all T160's were fitted with Dunlop K81 TT100's. These are still easily-available and imho you have to be a very good rider to find the difference between them and something like Avon AM26 Roadriders. Possible snag for you is both these tyres are good for cornering and less good simply doing lots of straight-line miles.

Otoh, things that I dislike about a standard T160, that might also niggle you:-

. Single front disc's a bit feeble for an over-500lb. motorcycle. Most Meriden Co-op twin-disc bits are bolt-on.

. Standard headlamp's dismal for a 120mph-capable motorcycle. Uprate that and the charging system to 3-phase will also eradicate any charging-based electric-starting problems.

There's plenty of information about and enthusiasm for these bikes; as well as this site, there's Triples On Line and the Trident & Rocket 3 Owners' Club. Only thing they can't do is bankroll the engine rebuild if it all goes t*ts-up. smirk

Hth.

Regards,

#357958 - 02/13/11 10:09 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Stuart]  
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Originally Posted By: stuart

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz

The guides and valve stems tend to wear pretty badly.

Ye-ea-ah, but if you only do one or two thousand miles a year,
it should be many years before any problem actually manifests itself.

And this is a good test of how 'speciality' the 'shops' are - triple top end
problems have been well-known since God was a lad, you do not slap in
standard valve parts if you're a triple specialist.


It's possible that they didn't do the valve gear at all if it's a low mileage bike. What's the best way to tell if they've put the good stuff in?
I'd think Black Diamond valves & guides and mushroom headed adjusters, but you put up *way* more miles on yours than I do on the R3.


Originally Posted By: stuart

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz

The starter motors can apparently be a weak point as well.
4 brush starters are available


Uh-uh, getting mixed up with Mk.3 Commandos, which have an
entirely different starter.

Oops - that was a Roy Bacon moment frown
You're quite right, I did get mixed up. I hate wrong "facts" getting around, so thanks for correcting that. I made the silly assumption that NVT used the same starter in both their electric start bikes. After reading your correction I was trying to think why they'd use different starters.
I suppose the Commando's Prestolite came from the 400cc Electra, and the T160's Lucas came from the 350cc Bandit/Fury smile

Originally Posted By: stuart

if you're investing the cost of new decent 4V coils (Steve Kelly
and British Spares in NZ do 'em), you might as well shell out for
a Trispark (which doesn't need 4V coils).


Quite so. But if it has a Boyer and 4V coils, it *might* happen to behave for quite some time


Originally Posted By: stuart

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz

chromed discs - they're utterly useless in the wet.


And how often will you be riding in the rain in Las Vegas, NV?

Touche!

Originally Posted By: stuart

Seriously, entirely-chromed discs are ok in the wet but, once the chrome starts to wear off, then they're 'useless'. However, no need to buy new discs; simply have someone who grinds car discs grind off the chrome and bolt 'em back on.


That's 2 things I've learned in 1 post. My T140 front brake is diabolical in the wet, but it *does* have some of the chrome worn off.
I thought about grinding, but new cast iron discs aren't all that expensive, and the originals can go on for 'rijinality if needed at some stage.


Originally Posted By: stuart

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz

Work on the basis of having to spend $1500


Hmmm. If the current owner's ridden it for a year since the
restore (try and find out how many actual miles he's ridden),
I'd be inclined to simply get on it and ride it and decide what
needs/you want to 'fix'.


I must've worded that badly. That's for pricing purposes. Work out what the bike's worth, and assume you need to spend money on those aspects. If nothing goes wrong, you're ahead, but if something does go wrong it won't be too unpleasant a surprise to the bank account.
The tyres looked good in the pics, but they may be cracked or almost worn out. I agree with Stuart about K81s being great on triples.

Originally Posted By: stuart


Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz

belt drive

Possibly. Even if the standard primary does need replacing, there are other alternatives.


That sounds promising. I must admit that's one of the things that's made me a bit wary of T160s - along with the price for a decent one.

#357963 - 02/13/11 1:37 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Shane in Oz]  
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Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
I suppose the Commando's Prestolite came from the 400cc Electra, and the T160's Lucas came from the 350cc Bandit/Fury


The Norton Electra had the Lucas starter motor-although fitted with a different drive mechanism to the T160 starter.

#358093 - 02/14/11 2:10 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Shane in Oz]  
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Hi Shane,

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
It's possible that they didn't do the valve gear at all if it's a low mileage bike.

I hadn't thought of that ... in which case problems might appear within only a few thousand miles. frown You'd have to scrutinise the receipts from the rebuilds and, if you didn't find any mention of valve gear bits, factor in the cost of a possible early top end rebuild? frown

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
What's the best way to tell if they've put the good stuff in?

You'd hope that a rebuild receipt would show something like that; after all, you want the bragging rights? wink Also, don't the best valves have thinner (6mm?) stems? So you could measure the end of the stem? Although, if they've got lash caps on ...?

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
I'd think Black Diamond valves & guides and mushroom headed adjusters,

The valves, yes, but on adjusters, there's been quite a bit of talk over on TOL about the merits of 'elephant foot' adjusters - Porsches, Audi's and VW's use 'em - large contact area with the top of the valve stem.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
but you put up *way* more miles on yours than I do on the R3.

Ye-ea-ah ... that's either Aussie humour or I've managed to foster completely the wrong impression ... whistle Used to put a lot of miles on 'em but the last ten years or so ... frown Lot of factors have curtailed my bike mileage but the biggest has to be two young children and the fact you can't fit 'em on any bike ... frown

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
I suppose the Commando's Prestolite came from the 400cc Electra, and the T160's Lucas came from the 350cc Bandit/Fury smile

As Les said, the Electra had the same starter as the T160. Afaict, the M3 was even an existing component when it went on the Electra - first mentions I've seen of it were on some of the rash of British scooters that appeared in the late 1950's and early 1960's.

Otoh, the Prestolite seems to have been one of these cheap components Norton sourced when they were part of Manganese Bronze - remember the flexible front 2ls brake plate on the early Commandos, made in Italy? I have it in mind that I read somewhere that the Prestolite was/is an American outboard motor starter, and the reason there's a 4-brush conversion is that's how they are normally, Norton just saved a few more pennies?

Originally Posted By: stuart
Seriously, entirely-chromed discs are ok in the wet but, once the chrome starts to wear off, then they're 'useless'.

I still remember the first time I rode my T160 in the wet ... all those stories of Japanese discs, I think I started braking from 30mph about 100 yards from the first junction. blush But the brakes worked as normal and, exploring the braking during that first journey, they seemed to work as they did in the dry.

As I say, ime it seems to be when there's a mixture of still-chromed and non-chromed areas that a brake goes to pot. Possibly surface tension can maintain a thin layer of water between chromed areas over non-chromed areas? Certainly stripping all the chrome off seems to restore normal service.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
I thought about grinding, but new cast iron discs aren't all that expensive,

I appreciate cost is going to be an issue for anyone. I've never been particularly fussed about originality (except on my T150); at the time, a blast, a coat of matt black over the whole disc then the one-man-band engineer at the end of the road skimmed 'em to remove both paint and chrome and I had a pair of good-as-new discs (albeit thereafter the shiny bits went rusty in the rain grin ) for not much money.

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
Work on the basis of having to spend $1500
That's for pricing purposes. Work out what the bike's worth, and assume you need to spend money on those aspects. If nothing goes wrong, you're ahead,

I see what you mean. bigt

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
The tyres looked good in the pics, but they may be cracked

Preferring Avons, that's something else I'd forgotten about. However, I checked the K81's on my T150, that're now four years old and, touch wood, they don't seem to be doing that - perhaps Dunlop have fixed that problem in modernising the compound?

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
Originally Posted By: stuart
if the standard primary does need replacing, there are other alternatives.

that's one of the things that's made me a bit wary of T160s

I don't know how often you read TOL but, again, there's been some discussion on there about the alternatives; unfortunately, none of 'em are particularly cheap ... frown

Hth.

Regards,

#358124 - 02/14/11 11:21 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Stuart]  
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Hi Stuart,

Gee, we've hijacked *this* thread a bit, haven't we? blush

Originally Posted By: stuart

The valves, yes, but on adjusters, there's been quite a bit of talk over on TOL about the merits of 'elephant foot' adjusters - Porsches, Audi's and VW's use 'em - large contact area with the top of the valve stem.


That was a good while back, wasn't it? iirc, the thread and / or diameter is different. I'll search for the topic on TOL and file the info away for my next rebuild.

Originally Posted By: stuart

Ye-ea-ah ... that's either Aussie humour or I've managed to foster completely the wrong impression ... Used to put a lot of miles on 'em but the last ten years or so ... Lot of factors have curtailed my bike mileage but the biggest has to be two young children and the fact you can't fit 'em on any bike ...


I haven't had much BSA time for a good while, either. My youngest is 12, but cricket and such takes time. Trying to run a small farm gobbles up a lot of "free" time as well - fixing tractors as well as driving them (no H-D jokes, please) and other farm stuff. The Rocket 3 is sitting in the shed part-way through rewiring & a Tri-Spark conversion and tracking down an oil leak (think it's mostly the oil light sender) so I've been riding a twin on the runs I've done - and that mostly comes down to the All British and BSA National.
Most of the motorbike fix comes from riding a Chinese Honda trail bike knock-off around the farm and wishing I had the time to get a Bushman or BSA four stroke single running instead. I'm sure a B44E or B50MX would make a nice farm bike smile

Originally Posted By: stuart

Otoh, the Prestolite seems to have been one of these cheap components Norton sourced when they were part of Manganese Bronze - remember the flexible front 2ls brake plate on the early Commandos, made in Italy? I have it in mind that I read somewhere that the Prestolite was/is an American outboard motor starter, and the reason there's a 4-brush conversion is that's how they are normally, Norton just saved a few more pennies?

Prestolite supplied electrical components for a lot of US machinery. We had Prestolite starters on Case tractors way back when...
One of the US guys on the board might chime in with more info o that particular starter.
It seems odd that NVT would have used the Prestolites when they already had stocks of the Lucas sitting about, but they did do some odd things.

Re primary drives
Originally Posted By: stuart

don't know how often you read TOL but, again, there's been some discussion on there about the alternatives; unfortunately, none of 'em are particularly cheap ...

I spend way too much time lurking over there as well, but don't post much. I skimmed a bit on T160 primaries a while back, but got the impression that the belt drive conversion was the most practical option.

#358316 - 02/15/11 8:46 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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The T160, and late T150, already have ball valve-adjuster pins. They work fine until the ball spins flat-side out.
Only worked on and rode a T160 once. Indexing the gear selector drove me batty. I prefer a right-hand shift anyway.
As stated, triples can be wonderful machines once fully sorted out. This looks like a fine example.
Only thing I'd worry about is the heat in Vegas.


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
#358475 - 02/16/11 12:53 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: DavidP]  
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Hi Shane,

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
we've hijacked *this* thread a bit,

'Swa_Boy' said he had "somewhat of an emotional attachment" to the bike so I'm hoping he's still reading and picking the technical stuff out of our ramblings ... wink

Originally Posted By: stuart
'elephant foot' adjusters

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
That was a good while back,
the thread and / or diameter is different.

New threads on the subject come up every now-and-then. The larger diameter spreads the load over the whole valve stem end - so more than the 'captive ball' type, but you don't have the rotating ball problems - and wa-ay more than a mushroom-head.

The thread is M8 Fine, so 1mm pitch, which makes it 25.4tpi whereas the standard adjusters are 5/16"UNF - 24tpi. Over the thickness of a rocker, iirc Dave Madigan reports just a sliver of metal is taken off the last thread. Dave Degens (Dresda) does elephant-foot adjusters in 5/16"UNF and either Cycle or BSF but, certainly in GB, he'll only fit 'em as part of a head job; won't sell 'em separately. frown

Originally Posted By: Shane in Oz
It seems odd that NVT would have used the Prestolites when they already had stocks of the Lucas sitting about,

But don't forget that T160 development had been started all the way back in late '72 by the BSA Group. I think a similar period applies to Mk.3 Commando development, so NVT just inherited bikes with a lot of development done. I'm sure Dennis Poore would've liked to have fitted the T160 with a Prestolite but, thankfully, he couldn't afford either the development time or money.

Originally Posted By: DavidP
The T160, and late T150, already have ball valve-adjuster pins. They work fine until the ball spins flat-side out.

confused If I understand the second sentence correctly, the 'captive ball' adjusters are supposed to be "flat-side out" (if that means the flat side is exposed and on the valve stem). It's when someone sets the gap between the stem and the rounded surface, then the ball rotates in use 'til the flat side is hitting the stem, that the top end sound like ball-bearings in a can.

Hth.

Regards,

#358665 - 02/17/11 4:33 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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The 911 and MB190 elephant foot adjusters have a 8x1mm thread. Very close to the 5/16"x24TPI of the rockers. Use a quality tap with cutting oil. You must check the range of movement on the valve to be sure the ball does not bind in the socket. Adjust the height of the rockerbox to correct it.
Aftermarket adjusters are usually longer and have less swivel range.
This is the MB adjuster. The 911 locknut is thinner.

#358899 - 02/18/11 6:31 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Stuart]  
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Originally Posted By: Stuart
Hi
confused If I understand the second sentence correctly, the 'captive ball' adjusters are supposed to be "flat-side out" (if that means the flat side is exposed and on the valve stem). It's when someone sets the gap between the stem and the rounded surface, then the ball rotates in use 'til the flat side is hitting the stem, that the top end sound like ball-bearings in a can.

Hth.

Regards,

No, the ball side should be out. Once they get worn, the flat side flips out resulting in the clatter you describe. Unfortunately the rocker box must be removed to replace the pins.


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
#358908 - 02/18/11 7:10 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
Joined: Mar 2005
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John Healy Online content
John Healy  Online Content



Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 9,970
Boston, Massachusetts
Quote:
No, the ball side should be out. Once they get worn, the flat side flips out resulting in the clatter you describe. Unfortunately the rocker box must be removed to replace the pins.


Stuart please enlighten David.


#358946 - 02/18/11 9:51 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: John Healy]  
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Stuart Offline
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Stuart  Offline
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Scotland
Hi David,

Ummm, how can I put this gently ...
Originally Posted By: Stuart
My first 'big' bike was a T160
Over thirty years later, I still have it and another T160

Originally Posted By: DavidP
Only worked on and rode a T160 once.

Originally Posted By: John Healy
Stuart please enlighten David.

... enlightened? wink

If not, have you never wondered why, if the valve clearance was supposed to be set on the round part of the ball, NVT went to the expense of machining a flat on every ball? When, as soon as the ball rotated so the flat was on top of the valve, the clearance would go from 'correct' to 'vastly incorrect'?

Hth.

Regards,

#359070 - 02/19/11 5:03 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
Joined: May 2005
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shel Online content
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shel  Online Content
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ohio
When I came to this point in my T150 build (first triple)I didn't give it a lot of thought and rolled the round side out. Installed the rocker boxes, set the clearance and buttoned up the inspection covers.
Later while having a cold beverage and admiring the bike it occurred that the flat would provided better contact with the valve tip. I tried to rationalize why it made better sense to have the round side out because I really didn't want to take it all apart again.
But in the end I couldn't come up with one good reason so I took it all back apart and did it over with the flats out.


When given the choice between two evils I picked the one I haven't tried before
#359276 - 02/21/11 9:02 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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DavidP Offline
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DavidP  Offline

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Gnashville
All I know is my 74 came to me with the round sides out on all pins. They remained that way through many tuneups by a professional, and after I learned enough to do my own maintenance.

When, eventually, the flat sides turned out the pins quickly tore up around the ball sockets due to contact with the valve stems.

I did always wonder why they did not use a complete sphere for these pins. I assumed that it was to save weight.


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
#359308 - 02/21/11 4:24 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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DMadigan Offline
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DMadigan  Offline
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ca, us
The flat in the ball is to spread the load on the valve tip. Otherwise it would be just like the fixed spherical tip adjusters previously used. There is too much load on the ball to let it rotate in the socket when the valve is actuated if it were a complete sphere. The flat on the ball is still too small. The valve has to rotate the ball by the flat whilst under load. Imagine looking at a cross section of an exhaust valve from the right side. Assuming the geometry is set up correctly, the contact point starts slightly inboard (left) of centre, moves right then left as the valve opens. The ball has to rotate counterclockwise during the first part of the movement, then clockwise. The drag on the ball at the flat is trying to do the opposite and the socket is trying to keep it from rotating. This causes the leading edge of the flat to dig into the valve tip. Very much the same as if you pushed and pulled a rockerbox across a piece of emery paper rather than a circular motion. If the valve and ball are hard enough, no problem. On an A65 that I used the Porsche adjusters, I have seen a Concentric wave groove develop in the face of the valve and that has a much larger contact patch.

#359797 - 02/24/11 8:15 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: DMadigan]  
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DavidP Offline
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DavidP  Offline

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Gnashville
Originally Posted By: DMadigan
Otherwise it would be just like the fixed spherical tip adjusters previously used.

You can see why I assumed that the round side should contact the valve.
Even the current after-market pins present a round shape to the valve stem.

Bought some of the 'Porsche-type" pins from Whitney once, didn't even fit a type-4 VW engine. So much for, "fits all air-cooled VW engines."


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
#560932 - 08/30/14 3:48 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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KrispyKris Offline
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Germany
Wow, this Post brings back memories...jeepers. I was just looking for info on tyres. All of the old names. Healy for chrissake, and Stuart for that matter. I finally was able to buy the T160 from my best friend...after over 30 years of waiting. He was the original owner, and the bike has been sitting in his basement (heated and dry)since 1981...so a quick pop to LP Williams, and into the poorhouse. Ok putting the UK bars on it and twin disks were not really needed, but hey now it is mine, and I really hate the US bars...

Last edited by kandkresto; 08/30/14 3:49 pm.

BGL, Deutschland.
'67 Bonnie w/140V, '76 T160, '52 Vincent Rapide.
"Is that 'normal' mechanical noise, or the sound of imminent destruction...?"
#560955 - 08/30/14 7:39 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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GTSRider Offline
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GTSRider  Offline
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Tampa, Florida
I had a 75 T160, ( miss it ! ) , and I put 1975 Norton 850 bars on her.... loved them !
Pete
Hudson Valley, NY


PM
#561015 - 08/31/14 9:17 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: Swa Boy]  
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GrandPaul Online content
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Laredo (South) Texas, USA
A three-year-old post with this many replies and NO PHOTO of a T160?



That'll have to do.


GrandPaul (does not use emoticons)
Author of the book "Old Bikes"
Too many bikes to list, mostly Triumph & Norton, some BSA & European
"The Iron in your blood should be Vintage"
#561023 - 08/31/14 10:36 am Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: GTSRider]  
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shel Online content
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shel  Online Content
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ohio
Originally Posted By: GTSRider
I had a 75 T160, ( miss it ! ) , and I put 1975 Norton 850 bars on her.... loved them !
Pete
Hudson Valley, NY


I have Norton bars on my Bonnie, much better than the U.S bars


When given the choice between two evils I picked the one I haven't tried before
#561140 - 08/31/14 9:22 pm Re: Opinions Please! 1975 T160 [Re: shel]  
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GTSRider Offline
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GTSRider  Offline
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Tampa, Florida
Yes...my 81 T140ES, and my 80 Yammy 850 triple has 1975 Norton 850 bars on them...they work for the bike and me .


PM

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