I've never had to do this job before but I have some instruction that were written on another bulletin board some years ago. I've copied them and hopefully the information will appear below.....
Separating the Swing Arm (and removing the Silent Bloc Bushes)
The swing arm on an old A10 does not come apart easily. It is held together by the swinging arm fork spindle running through the centre of the swing arm. This spindle is held in place by a securing bolt on one end and a nut on the opposite end. I used the following technique successfully for removal of this swing arm.
:- remove the bolt from one end of the swing arm and loosen the nut on the other end.
:- run a piece of continuous 7/16inch threaded rod through the holes in the plate on each side of the frame above the spindle and place nuts on the inside of the plates.
:- torque the nuts outwardly to apply a slight pressure on the two plates at each side.
:- drive the nuts with a hammer until the spindle breaks free.
An attempt to drive the spindle out should be made before doing any jacking of the frame to minimize potential impacts to the frame (I have only had to resort to drastic measures like the above in one instance). Additionally pry bars and a blow torch may be used for this procedure before attempting to use a jack to force the frame apart (I have never tried the pry bar/blow torch technique).
Once the swing arm is separated, the inner housings (silent bloc bushes) around the spindle can be removed and replaced if necessary. There are two of these within the centre of the swing arm. They are tubular and consist of a rubber spacer sandwiched between a metal inner and outer shell. The rubber spacer and outer shell are half as long as the inner shell which runs all the way to the centre. While the silent blocs could be pressed out (I did not have the equipment to do this), I had to use a more destructive removal technique. I was able to successfully remove them by torching out the inner rubber. The outer metal shell did not come out as easily after torching the rubber.
If difficulty is encountered with the removal of the outer shell, a Dremel tool with a 24 inch flexible shaft and a cutter bit can be used to cut one slot along the length of each bushing. Once the bushing is cut, a long steel rod can be used to knock each bushing out (driving from the opposite side).
To replace the silent bloc bushes a press can be used or, if like me there is not one available, a long piece of continuous threaded rod can be run through the centre of the bloc and swing arm with washers and nuts at each end to draw the silent bloc into the swing arm. In my case, I found that a ¾ inch threaded rod (with nuts) used in combination with two ¾ inch washers and two 1 inch washers was needed to do the job properly. The inner shell of the silent bloc is designed to protrude slightly and is not level with the outer metal shell. To prevent the inner shell from taking any torque, on each side place one 1 inch washer around the inner shell (it fits perfectly), then the ¾ inch washer, followed by the nut. This method forces all the torque on the outer shell.
Ok, it worked so I hope that you can understand it. Good luck,
It's been a while but if I remember right I push out old with pipe the same size (or close) as the outer steel part. Pushing both out old pieces out. Then put new ones in from separate sides. You want to push on outer part only. I had use of a 10 ton press.
Remove the rubber. I used to drill it out but on the B50 post Stan showed us a long hole saw which wil do the job in 1/10 the time. This will get rid of the inners. The outer tube will be rusted in solid and you will need to lift a corner and cut throught it with a chisel, or cut lengthwise enough to be able to collapse it in or use a dremel to cut it out, they do not press out after they have been in for a few years. When you get the inners out measure them against your new bushes as there is 3 different lengths ( if not more ). Clean up the swing arm, warm it with a hot air gun , chill the bush and the first one will drop in the second will require a bit of shoving. If you get a short length of the old ones out intact you cangive it a quick rub over the grinder to knock a tad off the outer diameter and use it to drift the new on in
I had good luck on a A10 with the torch method. Those things were so stuck in there it was a last resort and worked well.
It was in my favor that I was refinishing the swing arm anyways as I cooked the old paint. But basically like said above remove the swing arm. And stand up wind or use a fan as you take a torch and cook the old rubber out of the assy. Then the inner sleeves will come right out. The outer sleeves were almost one with the swing arm. I carefully and just barely cut thru them length wise with a sawzall and handsaw then tapped the outer sleeves out. Cleaned everything up. A press works wonders for reinstalling. And a socket and some washers ensures you only push on the outer sleeve.
One tip I never see is to freeze the bushings for a few hours as they will slide a little easier when contracted. Nothing wrong with a little grease as well far as I can tell.