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#545987 - 05/30/14 5:33 pm Oil Leaks  
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 258
BSAPhill Offline
BritBike Forum member
BSAPhill  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 258
UK
Hi all,
Recently rebuilt my Goldie motor with a great deal of care and attention (checked surfaces etc as I went along, good quality gasket set, etc, etc).

I've used Wellseal on the joints and I'm getting an oil leak around the pushrod tunnel on the head to barrel interface.

Could this be down to crank case pressure as I don't spare the revs now the motor is run in?

Help it's driving me insane.....

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#546002 - 05/30/14 7:44 pm Re: Oil Leaks [Re: BSAPhill]  
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 495
downhere Offline
BritBike Forum member
downhere  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 495
Australia
They all do that sir. Eventually.

#546056 - 05/31/14 8:45 am Re: Oil Leaks [Re: BSAPhill]  
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 921
limeyrider Offline
BritBike Forum member
limeyrider  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 921
gastonia .. NC
When I got my basket case Goldie the cover plate on the top of the push rod tunnel had a breather pipe attached ..the bike had a racing history... so the breather may well have been a cure for the same problem that you see.
Good luck.

James.

#559925 - 08/24/14 2:19 pm Re: Oil Leaks [Re: limeyrider]  
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 67
rolfdh9 Offline
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rolfdh9  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 67
England
You may not have timed the breather incorrectly.
The method of using the cover screw position is not always correct.
The breather should be fully open 10 degrees after bottom dead centre.
Take off the tacho drive so that you can see the position of the rotating breather.
Take off the timing cover.
Mark the rotating element.
Mark the postion of the breather exit on the timing cover.
Put a timing disc onto the cranbk.
Replace the breather and check the fully open position.
The mag gear has 36 teeth.
It is half time.
Each tooth represents 20 degrees of crank position.
Mine was 2 teeth out.
At lot of leaks.



Last edited by rolfdh9; 08/24/14 2:21 pm.
#559934 - 08/24/14 3:01 pm Re: Oil Leaks [Re: BSAPhill]  
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,210
Kerry W Online content
BritBike Forum member
Kerry W  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,210
Middle East,
That's good info.


No generalisation is wholly true, not even this one.
Oliver Wendell Holmes
#560054 - 08/25/14 8:56 am Re: Oil Leaks [Re: BSAPhill]  
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 185
geordie Offline
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geordie  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 185
Blue Mountains, Sydney Austral...
I just did a trial fit of the head (DBD34)on my rebuild and found that the head bolt (65-1822) located inside the pushrod tunnel was bottoming in the head and thus would not have been pulling the head down tight in that area, the motor prior to being pulled down showed evidence of leaking here. As found, there were no spring washers (2-2903)on any of the 4 bolts. After installing the spring washers I found that just the one spring washer on this bolt was insufficient.


58 goldstar
74 commando
70 Thunderbolt
81 Darmah
#560242 - 08/26/14 11:46 am Re: Oil Leaks [Re: BSAPhill]  
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 84
Tricatcent Offline
BritBike Forum member
Tricatcent  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 84
British Columbia, Canada
Mine leaked when I bought it. It turned out the problem was the same one as Geordie had where the lock washers had been left out. Some of the bolts were bottoming before they could pull the head down fully. I made some lock washers by turning down the OD of some standard lock washers. I re used the gasket as it was nicer than the replacement one I had. There had been some evidence of leaking of combustion pressure so I lapped in the joint. I peeled off one layer of foil because according to my measurements it was a bit thick. I coated the outside layer of the gasket with copper coat around the pushrod tunnel area only. When re assembled it no longer leaked.

The only annoying thing about this job is you have to remove the magneto. Apparently some racers left out the head bolts behind the mag. to avoid this problem, but I put all my bolts back in.

Nigel

#560249 - 08/26/14 2:23 pm Re: Oil Leaks [Re: 68triton]  
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
J.N. Offline
BritBike Forum member
J.N.  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
Seattle, Wa. USA
Hi, sometimes the bolts will bottom out because over many years, and many thread chasings with a tap, (and no one remembers to empty the debris out of the bottom of the bolt holes) this causes a build up in the bottom of the bolt hole which can get thick enough to make the bolt bottom out before it can get to the proper torque rating. I use a piece of mechanics wire in the bottom of the bolt holes to stir things up, to get loose enough to either vacuum out, or Invert and tap on the side to get them out of the hole. Mechanics wire and a air pressure blow gun good also, if one has a compressor.

JN

#560255 - 08/26/14 3:07 pm Re: Oil Leaks [Re: J.N.]  
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 67
rolfdh9 Offline
BritBike Forum member
rolfdh9  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 67
England
Use head gaskets from Phil Pearson.
They are expensive but of very good quality.

Try this method for setting the compression of the head gasket.
Remove the head and the barrel.
Invert the head on the bench.
Fit the gasket to the barrel with grease and invert the barrel onto the head.
Take a set of feeler gauges and reach down the barrel to measure the gap.
The barrel is wide enough to allow you to reach down.
Stip layers off the gasket until the gap is corret.
Fit the short head bolts and check that that pull the barrel to the head.

If all else fails it is time for Honda Bond, or Yam Bond, or Ducatti Bond.
They are all the same.
Grey and expensive.


Moderated by  Rich B 


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