I use the same as Per for my 1954 B33 for the engine....50W In the primary I use 10/30 or 10/40W engine oil...just enough to splash the chain. In the gearbox I use Castrol 80W 90 gear oil In the forks I have SAE 20 fork oil
Had the pleasure of working in Catalonia for 6 months a few years ago...I sure miss it
As far as I remember from the top of my head the first forks shall have about 1,9dl of oil each leg later they went up to 2,1 dl I believe, In my opinion SAE20 is to thin for the fork, I would use SAE 30 unless the fork has been modified with Dow type damper, then I go for SAE 20 oil.
Per Goldi Clubmans Goldi Scrambler Rob North R3 OIF A65
For the gearbox, with the bike on the centre stand fill the gearbox to the bottom of the oil filler plug hole (the big round plug in the centre of the outer cover). Inspect oil level often and keep it topped up.
For the primary case just use enough oil so that the chain just dips into the oil bath. The clutch is essentially a dry clutch, the oil is there to lubricate the cush drive, clutch bearing and chain, it also acts to keep the chain cool.
I am ending the restoration of my BSA B33 of 1.949 and I would like to know what Kind of oil I must to use. I think use 20w50, however I don't know I'd it is correct.
I would like to know too what oil you recommend for fork, gearbox, primari case...
Thanks you very much for your help.
The correct oil is whatever you put in last week and are going to replace next week. The grade is not particularly important as the engine is nearly all balls & rollers. Any oil bought from a supermarket today will be better than what was available when your bike was new. New oils tend to be low zinc these days so any oil that is designed for air cooled engines is even better . What is important is how long the oil is in there, You can not change it too much and the more the better. we have had members who virtually changed their oil every time they used their bikes and they got unbelievable life from their bottom ends and when they had enough "old" oil stored up they used this to change the oil in the F 100.
Thye actual weight of the oil used will be dependant upon where you live and how you ride and what is available from your local service stations as you will be topping up if you go on long rides and not all oils are compatible . FWIW I used Valvoline 20w 50 in the bikes ( & every thing else ) till I bought a 44 of local 20w50.
With a new bike it can be beneficial to use different coloured oils in each part of the engine as it makes tracing oil leaks a lot easier if they are all different colours .
If that was true every car gearbox with bronze synchro rings would be knackered!
I'm no expert on car gearboxes but I thought syncro rings were brass? [/quote]
Yes Syncro gears are bronze and most of the are powder pressings to boot. Early gearbox oils used sulphur compounds that chemically attacked the ntergranular Beta phase. For a long while gear oils used to be labled "syncro safe" if they did not have sulphur in them and these can be used in BSA boxes. Now days so I have been told all car gear oils are syncro safe so it has been dropped from the lable however a lot of truck oils still use the sulphur compounds.