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#365696 - 03/30/11 10:06 am Triton engine plates  
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 79
Tony Marotto Offline
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Tony Marotto  Offline
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Reading, UK
Hi, On my Classic Triton, I am reaching the stage when the engine (bare crankcases at present ) ,chaincase and gearbox can be offered up to the frame for engine plate manufacture. The plates will be custom as I have a really old good gearbox with old design mounting lugs and the long rigid chaincase which I realise will dictate where the engine/gearbox goes to some extent.. Presumably the engine needs to go as far forward as practical.I want it upright. As for vertical position,should I be planning ahead for a head steady mounting? I plan on using swept back exhaust pipes .As yet I have no thoughts on footrest mounting other than it won`t be full out racing position.I intend to use quarter inch thick hard aluminium alloy for the plates.Should they be thicker? Any particular grade.? I`ll probably make them in cardboard/hardboard until happy and then hack them out with a jigsaw.Any thought or hints and tips out there from Triton Builders?

#365765 - 03/30/11 9:15 pm Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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Your primary chaincases may dictate the tilt forwards or backwards of the engine in the frame, i presume you mean the long primaries as used on the rigid thunderbird and speed twin. I have the same set up and when i bought a set of converta plates from unity equip the inner primary case struck the bottom frame tube (slimline frame) , also when i screwed the primary to the crankcase the centre hole where the gearbox mainshaft came through was about an inch and a half too low and wouldn't go through.
I had to fill the holes in the crankcase with weld and re-drill and tap new holes to get everything to line up, rotating the chaincases upwards a few degrees.
Dave degens (mr.triton) recommends using heavier plate then 1/4" .

#365806 - 03/31/11 7:05 am Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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Tony Marotto Offline
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Reading, UK
Thanks for the info. I do have the rigid chaincases as I understood it was the best one to use. I don`t want a tilted engine. Looks like I am in for some cut and shut! I did not think Converta plates would fit the long case set-up and as they are so expensive anyway, I would rather make my own. The heavier plate makes sense ,the quarter inch looks a bit thin and there appears to be a lot of space to fill in. Thanks again

#365817 - 03/31/11 10:05 am Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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Do a search for pictures on here and elsewhere and make your own plates , first from cardboard or mdf , and when you are happy with the results make them from aluminium or dural plate. Converta plates are too expensve and don't fit.

#365939 - 04/01/11 1:11 am Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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SteveM Offline
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Austin, KY, USA
I concur on the Converta plates. I found that they were far from perfect. On the set that I used I had to have half of the mounting holes welded over so that I could re-drill the holes to align and grind off a good bit of the ends so that they didn't foul on the frame (at least they weren't too short). Once I did that, I found that the transmission would fit, but would not rotate for adjustment. I ended up completely re-shaping the top bolt slot so that the gearbox could be rotated. I would have been better off making my own.

#365981 - 04/01/11 7:03 am Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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Tony Marotto Offline
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Reading, UK
I think with the many different engine /gearbox /chaincase variations possible on Tritons .the chances of buying plates that fit must be slim. At the moment on my Triton I am finding very little that is going to plan.Odd combinations of forks and other bits have been a problem. I have a big advantage as I am a retired design engineer with good fitting skills but I am challenged at every stage by this project. It is much more difficult than I thought it would be but very enjoyable. The comments on various problems encountered are probably typical on this sort of build. After reading about them,I don`t feel quite so bad!

#366003 - 04/01/11 12:23 pm Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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SteveM Offline
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Austin, KY, USA
Tony,

In my case I was fitting the plates to a Manx. The plates were advertised for a Manx frame with Manx engine and AMC gearbox; all standard. I know that Manx frame dimensions vary a good bit, but the critical mount points for engine and gearbox should be pretty close. That being said, I really didn't expect them to be exact. However, they were way off. Especially the gearbox adjuster slot.

I am starting a Triton project in the coming months. I will be looking for plates for a slimline frame, Triumph pre-unit engine and Triumph gearbox. I'm considering calling Dave Degans as I understand that his plates are the best for Tritons. Opinions?

#366167 - 04/02/11 4:39 am Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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noisy norton Offline
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Riverside, CA.
I put a Weslake speedway engine in a featherbed a few years back. I used 3/8" dural. The main reason was for stiffness. I wasn't running a head steady. I would say use 5/16" at a minimum. I don't know your plan for the Triton but mine was raced on short circuits and upon my return to California it has spent the last 12 years being flogged at El Mirage dry lake and Bonneville. To date there have been no problems with the plates.

But unless you are planning to just cruise (God forbid!) the Triton I would recommend 5/16" minimum thickness.


God rides a Triumph but wishes it was a Norton.
#366549 - 04/04/11 10:25 am Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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Tony Marotto Offline
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Reading, UK
I am afraid my Triton will only be cruised,I did all my cafe racing in the 60`s . I think I will be hacking the plates out of at least 5/16" dural,to plywood templates. If you do it yourself ,you know it will fit. A lot of stuff out there either doesn`t fit or is in other ways unsuitable. At least with a Special you can please yourself and it doesn`t have to be as it left the factory like my T`bird rebuild. SteveM. Unity Equipe list a load of different combo`s of engine plates. only in 1/4 dural unfortunately. You can download their catalogue. Just Google Unity Equipe and all the goodies will be revealed Thanks everybody!

#366561 - 04/04/11 12:28 pm Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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wynne pendraig Offline
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wales
i agree with most of the above.
we make a lot of triton frame kits . and although plates are available it is a relatively easy job to make your own. and less expensive. smirk

Last edited by wynne pendraig; 04/04/11 12:29 pm.
#366717 - 04/05/11 10:04 am Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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Tony Marotto Offline
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Just for interest,I have just contacted a metal supplier who has a stall at my local Autojumble. (transitvan@ntlworld.com) He sells 8mm 6082 Grade plate for engine plates at 5 per kilo. Translated to proper engineering terms thats 5/16" thick at about 2.50 a pound. A square foot weighs in at about 4 1/2 lbs . 11.50 per sq.ft. doesn`t make me flinch too much. Not sure what area there is but it can`t be much.

#366775 - 04/05/11 4:57 pm Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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noisy norton Offline
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Riverside, CA.
Thats not a bad price. I bought some 6061T6 a week ago and the price was $3.84 lb. Looking forward to seeing how the plates turn out.


God rides a Triumph but wishes it was a Norton.
#366829 - 04/05/11 10:28 pm Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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Funny you should say that overandout , i had considered making a set out of 4mm 316 stainless steel , but went with the alloy ones in the end.

#558336 - 08/14/14 4:51 pm Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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Dr Zip Offline
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Florida, USA/
My 1974 750 T.140 + 1967 Slimline Triton has a problem with the rear drive chain touching a horizontal frame tube, just above the swinging arm pivot. Any suggestions how to stop this? Thank you.


Dr. Zip.
>>>--->
1975 Norton 850 Commando Interstate.
1967 Triton cafe racer.
1971 BSA A65T Thunderbolt.
2006 American Ironhorse, Legend chopper.
2001 Triumph Sprint RS.
#558369 - 08/14/14 8:01 pm Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Dr Zip]  
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scotland
Originally Posted By: Dr Zip
My 1974 750 T.140 + 1967 Slimline Triton has a problem with the rear drive chain touching a horizontal frame tube, just above the swinging arm pivot. Any suggestions how to stop this? Thank you.



It's the sort of thing that could have been sorted by engine plate design, but adjustment to rear suspension height might help.

If all else fails, use camchain guide rubber material from a Japanese engine to quieten it.


Amateur Loctite enthusiast.
#559139 - 08/20/14 11:44 am Re: Triton engine plates [Re: Tony Marotto]  
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GrandPaul Online content
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6061 in 1/4" is more than ample for street use.


GrandPaul (does not use emoticons)
Author of the book "Old Bikes"
Too many bikes to list, mostly Triumph & Norton, some BSA & European
"The Iron in your blood should be Vintage"


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