Thanks for contacting us.
The kick back you describe is very rare – at least with our ignitions.
The Smart Fire uses a fully retarded mechanical reference point (on the rotor) at slow speeds.
Our systems for twins/v-twins/triples are all wasted spark, as are most of the electronic ignition systems currently available for classic British bikes.
We have supplied many systems over the years, and wasted spark works fine on a properly tuned/timed engine.
Fuel generally only ignites under compression, unless there are problems with ignition timing and/or carburetion.
However, wasted spark ignition should be avoided on a supercharged engine, where problems could occur.
Our systems have been fitted to 45, 50, 72, 90 and 180° crank twins.
Harley used wasted spark (with a single set of points) for decades, without a problem.
With later models there has been a need to cater for fuel injection, lower emissions, improvements in economy and power, etc.
So you will find that most modern bikes and cars have switched to engine management systems.
These systems offer greater efficiency and non-wasted spark (single fire) ignition.
This certainly makes sense, although it means more complexity, i.e. increased circuitry and extra ignition coil(s).
Independent firing is something we have considered, and may offer at some point for those that want/prefer this method of firing.
For most classic bikes the wasted spark system is the simplest, and in our experience works fine
Normally kick back would be due to incorrect timing, wiring fault, battery, connections, switch, fuse, grounding or mechanical problem.
Can you see the advance/retard working with a strobe, i.e. the alternator rotor mark moving as rpm increases?
Retarding the timing may help, but shouldn't be necessary if the ignition was timed/strobed correctly.
What other work was done to the bike before (or after) fitting the new ignition?
Does the bike run normally (once started)?
Some problem areas to check include:
Bad electrical connection, switch or fuse contact
Faulty/high resistance plug cap
Faulty ignition trigger
Faulty ignition coil
Faulty ignition module
If you have a test meter you can check the plug caps and ignition coil for correct resistance readings.
The plug caps normally read about 5k (5000) ohms from end to end.
The dual ignition coil primary resistance is 0.6 ohms across plus/minus terminals, and about 8k ohms across the two ht outlets.
It’s worth checking that the timing is still correct, in case the rotor has slipped (unlikely, but possible).
You could also try running a temporary wire directly from the battery to the ignition module, bypassing the wiring harness, switch etc.
See if the kick-back persists.
It’s also possible for a weak mixture to cause or aggravate a kick-back problem.
This could be due to a carb fault/setting, air leak, valve problem, etc.
Hope this helps.
If this cannot be resolved, our ignition parts can be returned to us for testing.
We can check for correct advance/retard operation etc. on our rig.
PAZON IGNITIONS LTD.
Keeping Classic Bikes on the Roadwww.pazon.com
PAZON IGNITIONS LTD.
274 Hot Springs Road
Bay of Plenty
Tel: 0064 75495878
Fax: 0064 75495879