I have an original Charlie's filter I bought from the shop in Bristol around 1992 and never used. I was going to fit it to my TR7V, but I'm slightly deterred having read this thread on Triumph RAT.
The one on eBay looks like it will avoid the centrestand problem discussed - though the poster on Triumph RAT refers to a potential problem associated with the way the 'oil feed pipe' is routed over the frame cross-member to which the rear brake linkage is attached. I'm not sure whether this is in fact a problem (surely it could be routed differently if so wished?), and the same issue would apply to the standard Charlie's filter, I would have thought?
I'm tempted by the Taiwanese filter, if it avoids the centrestand issue discussed on the other forum. I've read quite a bit about the theoretical disadvantages of a filter on the return feed, but it seems to me a good idea, coupled with regular oil changes, and an improvement on the original set-up. I'm sure a spin-on car-type filter on the feed side, filtering oil under pressure, is better in theory - but I really don't like the look of them.
I have a Charlies filter on my T120RV and had no problems with it. Ref the center stand hitting the acorn nut--I resolved that by zip tieing a thin piece of rubber around the stand tube in the right place to cushion the stand against the nut. Don't worry about the filter being on the suction side of the pump--on the Triumph twins the oil flow rate is so low that the filter pressure drop is less than the static head of oil in the oil reservoir--so the pump is not actually sucking at all. HTH
I don`t have that type of filter system but I have had the Time warp oil filter cooler in my 1978 Bonneville and have no problems with it.Any filter is better than the factory screen filter. mine is in the return line with the filter inside the frame also. I use a Pure one 14477 car filter that I always fill before installing it. I made plugs for all the lines to prevent oil spills on the garage floor. Since the time warp didn`t have a drain I just drilled a hole and used a 10-32 allen head screw to drain the oil before filter removal and oil change. I placed a couple of rare earth magnets I took out of a computer hard drive on top of the filter and they pick up a lot of fine particles as you can see in the photo. I`m happy with what I have but that new filter on eBay really looks good. Juan
Seriously considering ordering one of these filters - I know you can work around the centrestand problem associated with the Charlie's filter but this seems a neater solution, looks beter made and is relatively inexpensive at just $56 inc. P&P (without the filter, of which I have several).
I fitted one to my 78 T140V, don't thinks theres a prob' with the centre stand. Only thing I did find was that the rubber rings that come with the filter elements are a tad too big/sloppy and didn't seal very well/ sqiudged out when tightening, so I had a load of seals specially made and they now work well...
I'm familiar with the Charles-style filters and their pluses and minuses, but has anyone tried this specific (Motao) brand? Frankly, it looks almost too good to be true. Incidentally, I already have a M.A.P. return line filter, but want to also use a Charles-style filter just in case any grit from the pre-powdercoat sandblasting got past my elaborate precautions.
Last edited by J. Charles Smith; 05/09/1411:08 am.
My '78 center stand cross brace hit directly on the Charlie's filter cap nut. Just heated it up and hammered in an indent just sufficient to clearance. Didn't want the end hooks of the stand hanging down any lower than necessary- learned the hard way on that situation. Chopped the grappling hooks off with a Sawzall, tough hardened material took a while but worth it!
Not my bike but you can see the potential for hazard here:
I've ordered the Taiwanese filter kit, will try it out and report back (don't hold your breath waiting though, the Tiger 'refurb' is taking a little longer than expected - and consuming considerably more cash than planned!)
Latest expenditure was on a stainless LF Harris rear master cylinder, after attempting to adjust the brake pedal height today and discovering that the existing master cylinder was completely sh*gged (push rod bent, threads between cylinder and steel body stripped and held together with Loctite, lots of rust, grub screw removed, shoulder nuts replaced with plain ones, etc.) All fetchingly painted in Hammerite silver like much of the rest of the bike (grab rail, horn, inside of mudguards, hubs and spokes - acceptable, calipers, etc.) The PPO had quite a thing about silver hammerite, metric fasteners and plastic cable ties - I've removed 100s, many not even connecting anything together!
Filter kit arrived yesterday - it's as good as it looks in the photos. Great quality - very impressed. Will wait till when I have fitted it for final judgment. Great price too < £40, inc. P&P. Half the price of a Charlie's-type one, and considerably better IMO (first impressions)
I decided to order one of the kits on May 10. It arrived today, May 20. Very nice packaging. The filter kit looks great. The fit on everything is very precise (bless those CNC mills!). Even the hardware looks like better-than-usual quality. It uses a stock B25 BSA oil filter. They have updated a couple of items since first offering the kit, it seems, including adding a Viton washer to the copper washer for the magnetic drain plug.
I received mine today. I concur with the others in that the quality and finish is great. Too bad I'll be the only one that will probably see it. They also make billet fork spindle caps for $30 /pair which is cheap.
Fitted the kit yesterday, replacing the standard Triumph sump plate and gauze filter. It was a fairly tight fit diagonally across 2 of the four mounting bolts but is now bolted on securely.
I would advise not doing what I did and giving it a gentle tap with a rubber mallet to try and nudge it on (not a good idea ) As soon as I had done it, I regretted it - the sump plate was now very difficult to remove without damaging the mating surfaces. In the end I pressed it on and tightened it up - not looking forward to trying to get it off at next oil change which will involve somehow removing a stud, I expect. Any suggestions how to get the bl@@dy thing off welcome!
The sensible action would have been to remove the plate and compare it with the original as soon as I noticed it wasn't a perfect fit. Not sure if others have experienced this? I believe it is a production flaw rather than a fault with the fittings on my bike, as the old plate was a good fit and there are no signs of any modification to the mounting holes.
This filter is added to the return line, not the supply line. There are advocates of both. Both work and I've never heard of any problems caused as a result of either option. To me, replacing the original gauze filter with a more efficient cartridge type one - which is all this option involves - makes sense. These filters have been around since the early '90s at least (I bought one from Charlie's in Bristol in '92 or '93) and they are tried and tested. The Taiwanese one has the advantage of not obstructing the centrestand; the Charlie's one has the advantage of actually fitting on the bike!
Here's an example of a supply side filter - with a detailed explanation on the website as to why this is a better option.
It involves modifying your timing cover It's expensive (can't remember the exact price, but not far short of £400, if I remember correctly) IMO, it looks a mess and the modified timing cover and extra tubing spoils the look of the engine
Furthermore, I'm not convinced that in practice it is measurably better than using a return line cartridge filter and regular oil changes with a good quality 20/50 (though I do not dispute the theory).
If people don't agree with the concept of the supply side filter, do they object to the gauze?
I will grant you that a complete moron might run the engine to the point that the B25 filter disintegrates into blotting paper but believe me, it works and I have never heard of anyone (first hand) having a problem. They were the "must have" back in the day.
I change my oil frequently anyway, and possibly overkill but always trash the filter. It saved my engine 2 years ago when rust from the upper tube flushed into the tank. if that lot went through the pump, I'd have had trouble.
You'd need a load of crap to block that filter in normal use, although a chimp might blow his engine if he didn't change it after 5 years.
Actually, Charlie, the Charles type filters are on the supply side in that oil is drawn thru the filter by the oil pump plunger that supplies oil to the crankshaft. As I mentioned in my initial post on this thread, I will fit this filter kit primarily to negate any possibility that blast media got into the oil tank. I will keep close tabs on it, Pete, both to check if it does pick up any grit, and to make certain it does not impede the flow of oil to the engine. I also have a M.A.P. filter kit for the return side http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/oil-filter-kits.html.