Hi guys, I'm looking to buy a Daytona.I know what a T100R is and a T100T, i know what a SS is but what is a T100S? I'm not familiar with the S specification. Should it be twin or single carb, should it have the better crank end bearing with blister on the timing case? was it sold in UK or is it a USA model? cheers everyone
what is a T100S? Should it be twin or single carb,
Hopefully you'll know that the T100R and T100T are both twin-carb., the 'R' being US spec. and the 'T' being UK & General Export spec., but only 'til the end of the '70 season?
As Nick says, 'S' is single carb., but again, ostensibly UK&GE spec. - if you look at http://www.bigdcycle.com/books.html and then the first few pages of the '67, '68 and '69 books, you'll see the styling differences between a UK&GE 'S' and a US-market 'C'.
Originally Posted By: stavely
should it have the better crank end bearing with blister
The "blister" for the timing-side ball main bearing appears only on '69-on timing-side crankcases; prior to that, there is a (different) ball main bearing on the drive side with a bush on the timing side.
An 'S' got whatever was specified when it was built; i.e. a '67 or '68 'S' will have drive-side ball and timing-side bush, a '69 or '70 'S' will have drive-side roller and timing-side ball.
Originally Posted By: stavely
was it sold in UK or is it a USA model?
As I say, "ostensibly" the 'S' was a UK&GE model; however:-
a. Canada was supplied direct from Meriden with UK&GE models; they certainly gravitated second-hand over the border into the US;
b. over the years, I've read several posts about buying allegedly-UK&GE-spec. bikes new in the US, and a long way from the Canada/US border ...
Finally, when looking at '68 and '69 'C'-range (unit 350 and 500), bear in mind that the first '69-season bikes were 2200-odd stamped with the 'H'-and-five-figure engine and and frame number (H65573 and above) used in previous seasons. Nevertheless, these bikes all have the '69-on main bearings, oil pressure switch (originally taper-thread), left-hand UNF thread tacho. gearbox mounting, etc. ... but the primary, timing and gearbox covers are still mounted with (1/4") BSF screws ...
OK thanks guys that's cleared it up. This bike is stamped T100S and has an engine number starting ED. So its not an original Daytona but a 500 with a twin carb conversion. I love this site you folk are a font of accurate information. thanks again.
bike is stamped T100S and has an engine number starting ED. So its not an original Daytona but a 500 with a twin carb conversion.
At May 1970, that'd be one of the last S's built; even if it was built precisely according to the parts book, there were still very few differences between any of the single- and twin-carb. variants. Forty-four years and an unknown number of owners/rebuilds later, sorting the d.p.o. cock-ups is going to make more difference to it as a usable 21st century bike than any notional specification differences when it was new.
stavely. what Stuart said. There are cycle differences as well. I have a 67 Daytona which is in a 70 T100S cycle. It came with a WM2 18 front rim with the 7 inch TLS brake which works very well. Also, the rear rim is a WM2 18, not a WM3 18 as on the Daytona. I have recently had an 8 inch TLS hub laced into a 18 inch front rim mostly because it looks the part but there is nothing wrong with the 7 inch TLS if that is what you have. As has been often said, the unit T100, whatever the model, is a sweet ride. I have been running mine with a 930 carb which works well although I am going back to a couple of 626 carbs for no particularly good reason except that it is fun to tinker and the 930 has been on it for almost 20 years.......My 68 Daytona which is becoming an ISDT replica came with a 928 on it so Stuart is probably on the right track for his next thing on his to do list. Whatever you have or are contemplating having in a T100 should be good.
the 28mm carb is a good idea i may well try that myself on my 67/8 T100R, i have twin 26mm on at the moment and runs well with them but single carb is easier to tune and as i have high pipes on with large enduro tyres its all ready got the off road look(thats right for me)
Also, the rear rim is a WM2 18, not a WM3 18 as on the Daytona.
Mmmm ... what I mean about different specs. US-market "R" Daytonas had a WM3 (with a 4.00 tyre) but, certainly according to the parts books, UK&GE "T" Daytonas had the same WM2 rim and 3.50 tyre as the 'S'.
But then, if you take modern advice from the tyre makers, they'd say a 3.50 should've been on a WM3 in the first place and, especially if you're fitting the bike with the modern-equivalent 4.10 or 100/90, it should be on a WM3 (as WM4 won't fit aiui).
Similarly, at the front:-
. '67 and '68 "T's" are shown as having an 18" (WM2) rim;
. '69 parts book is a bit vague, with the model spec. sheet near the front still showing 18" but the corresponding part numbers missing from the "Front Wheel" parts listing;
. '70 "T" is shown as having the the same 19" rim (with the 8" brake) as the "R".
the 28mm carb is a good idea i may well try that myself on my 67/8 T100R,
Risking telling you things you know already, there are different single-carb. manifolds:-
. Sometime around '68/beginning of '69, Meriden went from 1/4" (BSF/Cycle) to 5/16" (UNC/UNF) manifold mounting studs into the head, the later studs are also slightly further apart. Afaict, because more twin-carb. 500's were sold after this change, the later single-carb. manifold is now somewhat rare/desirable/expensive.
. On the later manifolds, either the carb. inlet hole was badly-made or it was subtly modified between the T100C and TR5T ... because there are different hole diameters. Because my T100 started out assembled from parts, I was pleased to find the manifold hole was big enough for a 28mm carb. without enlargement, but I have seen smaller ones.
Otoh, all the 'earlier' single-carb. manifolds I've seen had an inlet smaller than 28mm.
The later 500 single carb manifolds (70-7578) are available new. I bought one a few years ago when the lug on my original cracked. However the cast/finish on the inside was very poor and as it is very difficult to polish or clean up I ended up buying a good OE one. Hopefully the quality issue has now been sorted if anybody knows?
Last edited by paulberry; 04/26/149:53 am. Reason: spelling correction