seems like prices are all over the lot. 1965T. thanks.

I've got a good used 3-phase Lucas alternator in my Royal Star with a podtronics. After roasting one podtronics by mounting it under the seat, the new mounting location under the steering damper where the later zeners were has it charging at idle and keeps the halogen headlamp lit even in stop-and-go traffic. I'm loving this setup.

Hi,

What've you got and what do you want?

. If it's still got the 3-wire single-phase stator, Sparx do an encapsulated replacement.

. Above that, the 2-wire RM21 (10.5A @ 5,000 rpm) is available from LAP (Lucas Aftermarket Products), Sparx and Wassell have copies.

. Above that again, the high-output 3-wire 3-phase RM24 (14.5A @ 5,000 rpm) is available from LAP, Sparx has a copy, Wassell has an alleged 20A 2-wire, single-phase stator, but don't appear to mention the rpm where this wonderful 20A is generated (not a lot of use @ 10,000 rpm ).

Ime and mho, you can never have too many Amps.

Hth.

Regards,

Hack for electrical stuff I like an eBay seller called racingnorton who is also a real guy named
Carl Hokanson. I don't think he tries to get rich off of us, email is chokanson at aol dot com. I'd check with him.

I've use a Sparx 3-wire set-up for over 10 years (holy crap, even longer than that) and it's been very good, except they had issues with the rotor not fitting the shaft early on. Because of this, I use a Lucas rotor and it's been trouble-free the whole time.

I'll second the mention of Carl Hokanson. I've dealt with him in the past and he is very reliable.

thanks everybody!
I haven't pulled it apart yet. its not charging so I just assumed its a bad alternator, but I realize It could be broken wires as well as anything else. i'll report back.

Hi,


Also don't forget the rectifier or rect./reg., it could've broken.

Hth.

Regards,

The last time I had the original set up, I used to replace the rectifier every couple of years. Never fried a zener.

Recently found an RM24 on fleaBay, paired with a 200W rect/regulator from some Yamaha it works great.

+1, regarding what do you want? It's a preference thing and probably best to get some independent advice.
LAP, Sparx and Wassell all make 3-wire 3 phase 12V RM24 LU47244 (14.5A) stator, while LAP and Wassell also make a lower output (10.5A) RM24 LU47252 3 phase unit.
All available in the US.

100% need to check the rectifier/regulator. Can't go wrong with Podtronics which are readily available.

Good luck!

well I finally pulled the primary cover.
I find I have a 2 wire system.
the Lucas rotor doesn't wobble, but it has maybe an inch in rotational play.
the alternator looks old, but intact. the encapsulating material is pock marked and a bit weird looking, but seems intact.
except where there is a plastic housing for the wires, it is broken away where the wires actually enter the alternator. the wires themselves dont appear to be damaged.
on the other end, one of the spade connectors to the rectifier may have been loose.

part of me just wants to replace the whole shebang. part of me wants to diagnose the the problem if possible.

I believe I tested the output at those spade connectors a couple of years ago while the bike was still set up to run. there was no output.

can I check to see if there is a break in the alternator windings itself?
do rotors lose magnetism in time and should it have that 1 inch play?
how can a rectifier be checked with a meter?

thanks men. or mates, if that's the case!!!!!

Since you've been messing with these old bikes a long time, I know you plan to replace the rotor at a minimum. You would likely be able to see if the looseness is rotor/crank or rotor/hub while still on the motor. Hopefully it is the rotor itself, most likely IMO anyway. Fixing a crank keyway is almost too much trouble to bother with............ unless you live where those guys cast their new pistons before breakfast!!

well.......my ohm meter battery died. so I decided to just go ahead and pull everything.
the stator turned out to be a mess. the rotor beat it up.
the keyway might be ok. I cant get the rotor off as it seems whatever bushing they sleeve the insides of the rotor with, has now worn a groove behind the keyway.
HOW IN HELL DO I GET THIS THING OFF?

nick, it looks like the woodruff key is still in the keyway, so I am a bit leery of pulling the rotor off with a puller. although maybe that's exactly what I need to do.

what would one cut the rotor with if I go that route? a cut off wheel? u think I could cut it enuff to split it with a chisel?

A puller and a lot of heat

Or as had alread been suggested split the arbour.
A big nut spliter will do the job

This is what I replaced mine with and now I have a dependable charging system and nice headlight..A bit pricey but genuine Lucas rotor and welded stator...A lot to be said for a 3 phase charging system..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-stator-kit...e01&vxp=mtr