I purchased a 1965 TR6SR last year, and had the intent of adding a rigid rear section to it, trying to create a 1950 look with the advantages of a unit construction bike. Having checked out all the rigid frames available, just about every one is a 4 to 6 in stretch, which is a great look for a chopper with a 30" over front end, but for the vintage look with no extended front end, it makes the bike look like a hillclimber!! As time progressed, the winter set in, and I got a bit curious about what it would look like. This led to some work in the evenings on the computer trying to get a good look. I was fortunate enough to find an old line drawing in a magazine, and used that as the basis for my computer project. My only real stipulation was that I wanted to keep a stock wheelbase to avoid both the hilclimber look and the floppy extra long chain. So I started by photographing the magazine page and getting it into the computer.
I converted the image to a bitmap and saved it as such, which allowed me to use the Windows paint program for any further mods. My first step was to erase much of the rear end, then add in a roughly designed rear section and fender. Since I wanted the stock wheelbase, this made it much easier as I could only go with certain dimensions.
Having the basic done, I was curious about colourizing it. Some detail work was done to the tank, changing the badges to the early 50's style, as well as designing a paint scheme to match.
Satisfied that things were on the right course, I spent some serious hours erasing, and then adding in features I wanted to see- Note the addition of a nacelle, front license plate, taillight, solo seat,toolbox, oil tank, mufflers, and relocated front fender stays. Also note no more spec lines, etc.
At this point I had also developed a way that while I was still in windows paint, I could use the 'Bucket fill' as well as the colours and custom colours to use a one click method to change the base colour and get another view. (Gotta admit, this is my favourite image to work with at this point, it allows me to try an infinite number of base colours to see what a rigid would look like in green, yellow, orange, etc.....) What you do not see is that connecting ALL the blue or red coloured portions is a series of 1 pixel lines...these were the key to the one click system. Without these lines, I would have to go to each coloured area and bucket fill one section at a time.
The final shot is the image modified to show a combination of a black frame and nacelle with painted tank and fenders. A sharp eye will not only catch the addition of my customary tank shift, but that the oil tank was modified in between 'saves.' This image has not been set up with the previous "1 pixel lines" so I cannot just 'one click' and change ONLY the tank and fender colours.
This is as far as the computer generated imaging will go for me. It has served my purpose, to generate an image of how my bike could look. With that said, if anyone out there who is a computer geek would like copies of these to work with, let me know. I do feel that image 4 or five would be most usable, primarily for their ability to let you test different colours out before you paint. (I kindly request that you be someone who is serious and has the skills to take this rendering up to the next level.If you know nothing about using the program, please don't waste both of our time.) For this posting, I have converted them to JPG and reduced the size so in their current state, they won't do you much good. The original files that I work from are BITMAP, and each file is about 12 million bytes, and would probably jam up this board pretty badly..... To work with my originals, I open them using windows paint as a bitmap file, and from there can make colour changes, erasures, additions etc.
By the way, the real bike has progressed nicely. A nacelle has been added, the bike's tank and fenders painted with the blue and silver paint scheme. Having also added my old favourite set of saddlebags, I am now in no big rush to add the rigid rear section, as the bags nicely hide that ugly rear end. Cheers! Joe
Mr. Catt, I somehow missed all this graphics work until just now. I have been looking at saddlebags for my '64 TR6. I have looked at literally thousands of them on-line, and found something to hate about all of them. While looking, I have been thinking about how to mount them on the bike. My searching brought me to this thread.
I would be most curious as to how you have your bags hung on there, as well as an explanation of the grab rail behind the seat. I know you keep close tabs on eBay; is your setup vintage, recently purchased, or home-brewed?
Some pictures would be great if you have the time.
'64 TR6R Plus some Twins from other countries (U.S., Germany, Japan)
Ray, Let's start from the beginning. Many moons ago, (mid 1980's) in a tiny village in pot infested Northern Califonia, there lived a biker. He liked to ride a lot, and also wanted to be able to carry the kitchen sink at times to impress the neighbors. So he designed and made a set of big saddlebags. Not any ordinary bags would do, so these bags were made with sheet metal lining on the face and back, with supports spaced around the perimeter to keep the bags rigid when not full of, er ...ummm, stuff. Bikes have come and gone, but the bags have stayed around and been on several since then.
On their most current mount, Miss Penny, a bracket was carefully designed and only the finest old bedframe angle iron laying around the shop was used to make the bracket. It is basically a large "L" shaped bracket, roughly 20" long by 16" tall. The bracket lower arm has the widest face of the angle iron pointing out to act a a lip for the lower backside edge of the bag, and is mounted to the rear footpeg bolt and plate. It extends back abount 18" or so, where another piece of angle iron is welded to it running vertically straight up. This is bolted to a rear grab rail mount, which in turn is set up with correct spacers and bolted to the rear fender. Finally, the saddlebags are bolted to this frame directly, at two points along the lower arm, with the bag just resting on the protruding edge of the angle iron, and two mounts at the top, one is (if I remember right) where it bolts to the rear fender, and then the other forward top mount is a "P" clamp attached to the grab rail side that is bolted to the shock mount. Angle iron was chosen due to the rigidity it has, flat steel will just bend under any weight. Grab rail itself is a special wander through the local Japanese bike junkyard with a tape measure and correct measurements in head. Little shy on photos at this writing, will keep you in mind as I play with bikes over the next few.
I prefer a rigid style bag, all of the leather only are subject to moisture and stretching, which means a droopy and sloppy looking bag due to no support over a period of time. My basic measurements are about 22" x 16" x 6", this allows me to shove a pair of big rubber boots and my rainsuit in one bag as an example. As I like real leather, it is quite easy to conceive taking any of the hard bags out on the market, and using them as an inner case, building a leather outer shell around them. Joe
Actually, Ray, I painted another Honda 350 in between posts! Here's an update, with a correction to previous post:
Correction: Rear most mount is not through the fender, ummm, that was a previous fender that was on the bike!
Lower forward mount at rear peg...note the slight jog and welded in brace to keep the flex down....
Detail shot of upper front p-mount to grab rail...that stupid extra hole located at the shock area that has been recently discussed on the forum is a really groovy place to bolt a non rusting stainless eyebolt to hook the bungee cord to when I am carrying those two 40 pound bags of pellets for the stove....
Rear view kinda sorta...I trimmed most of the angle iron bedframe down a little here, leaving a fat portion at the bottom to possibly mount some mini rear marker lights to aid the extremely small taillight at night....
This system has been in place for about two + years now, with 200 miles a week, no problems or hassles. I know you have been working on the bag mount for a while, again, as a daily rider, I'd go hardbags with a solid mounting system, as you can see, mine was made from crap lying about the shop. (Fortunately my ex was fairly light, and never really noticed that part of her half of the bed was no longer attached....) Cheers! Joe
Oh, and those are real glass red beads in the saddlebags. Each one hand sewn, and there are over 1000 of 'em between the two bags. Took a lot of pot to get that chore done!
Thanks for all the detail, Mr. Catt. It is rare to find pictures like yours that show all the mounting points in detail. You have a lot of intricate work in those bags and their mounting system. Nice patina showing now too. I admire the way you and some others on here get so much use out of your old Triumphs -- using them the way they were intended.
'64 TR6R Plus some Twins from other countries (U.S., Germany, Japan)