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Suggested source for piston rings? #513955
11/08/13 5:02 pm
11/08/13 5:02 pm
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 262
Houston, TX
H
HarveyH Offline OP
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HarveyH  Offline OP
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H
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 262
Houston, TX
I need a set of piston rings for my '70 A65L, stock bore, "good or better" quality for a street bike. Stateside vendor preferred but not mandatory.

Any suggestions?

TIA,

Harvey


1970 A65L (Yep, it's one of the "Y" bikes)
1942 HD45
1942 Boeing N2S-3
1930 Ford A
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Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #513961
11/08/13 5:58 pm
11/08/13 5:58 pm
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 493
new jersey usa
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pushrod tom Offline
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pushrod tom  Offline
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new jersey usa
Hastings or Total Seal should be able to help you. Or....get in touch with one of the vendors who advertise here. They know whats up. PRT

Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #513962
11/08/13 6:13 pm
11/08/13 6:13 pm
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,350
Magnolia, TX
htown Offline
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htown  Offline
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Magnolia, TX
+1 on the Hastings. What grit hone? Need to use something fairly coarse like a 220. Be sure and wash the bores with hot soapy water and a scrub brush after honing to remove stone residue. Should be able to run a white clothe through and see no residue. To prevent rust wipe down with clean rag with a little bit of oil on it.
I do a dry assembly just enough oil to get the pistons into the bores. Drop or two on each face of piston skirt.
Lot of opinions on break in oil. Consensus seems to be that modern auto oil rated SL or SM can cause cylinders to glaze.
I would use at least nothing above an SG rating. Personally, I used Rotella 15/40 diesel oil my last rebuild for first 100 miles, then changed to Valvoline 20w/50 4 stroke motorcycle oil, which is what I use year round in all my bikes. I got excellent ring seating following these steps with the Hastings rings.

Last edited by htown; 11/08/13 6:40 pm.

1978 Bonneville T140E
1974 Trident
1970 BSA Thunderbolt
1971 Norton Commando
1972 Norton Commando
1973 Norton Commando
1974 Norton Commando
2004 XL 1200R Sportster

Everything will be alright in the end. If its not alright, its not the end.
Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #514014
11/08/13 11:51 pm
11/08/13 11:51 pm
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 262
Houston, TX
H
HarveyH Offline OP
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HarveyH  Offline OP
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H
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 262
Houston, TX
Thanks HTown for the great advice. I've always used straight mineral oil in my planes during break-in. Breaking in with synthetic or semi-synthetic oil will guarantee glazed cylinders in an aircraft engine!

What do you think of Aeroshell 100W (which is non-detergent 50 weight) for break-in? I've also got a case of Aeroshell 80W (non-det 40 wt) if the 50 wt is too thick.

Harvey

Last edited by HarveyH; 11/08/13 11:52 pm.

1970 A65L (Yep, it's one of the "Y" bikes)
1942 HD45
1942 Boeing N2S-3
1930 Ford A
Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #514019
11/09/13 12:57 am
11/09/13 12:57 am
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,673
Mississauga, Ontario.
A
Adam M. Online content
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Adam M.  Online Content
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A
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,673
Mississauga, Ontario.
I believe 50 wt will be OK in Texas:).

Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #514065
11/09/13 10:27 am
11/09/13 10:27 am
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,350
Magnolia, TX
htown Offline
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htown  Offline
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Posts: 1,350
Magnolia, TX
Depends on the time of year. You might find the straight 50 makes kicking over and starting a little harder even here in the winter. IMHO absolutely the best time of year to ride here. I don't even ride much in the summer except for early mornings. To avoid semi-annual oils changes I just use the 20/50.
The problem with modern SL and SM auto oils is that they are loaded with friction reducers because modern cars run tite clearances and to increase gas mileage. Not good for bedding in rings. As long as the aero-oils don't have those shouldn't be a problem, 40wt would work as long as the weather is fairly cool.
As far as break-in what I did was start the engine up and blip the throttle never letting it idle or go above 3000 rpm for about five minutes or until it was warmed up good. Then overnight cool down and retorque head bolts and regap valves.
Next rides out in the country for 100 miles, varying throttle up and down through the gears, no steady running at one rpm. Not over 3500 rpm. Change out break-in oil to 20/50, retorque and regap valves. Then 500 miles same using gradually more rpm then another oil change retorque and regap.

Last edited by htown; 11/09/13 10:28 am.

1978 Bonneville T140E
1974 Trident
1970 BSA Thunderbolt
1971 Norton Commando
1972 Norton Commando
1973 Norton Commando
1974 Norton Commando
2004 XL 1200R Sportster

Everything will be alright in the end. If its not alright, its not the end.
Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #514071
11/09/13 10:58 am
11/09/13 10:58 am
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,946
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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Allan Gill  Offline

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Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Id say the opposite, get some proper running in oil, its equal to 30wt, get it warmed up and then give it a good blast on the free way.

Do 10 miles then change the oil.

No good comes from nursing an engine.


beerchug
Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #514076
11/09/13 12:01 pm
11/09/13 12:01 pm
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,673
Mississauga, Ontario.
A
Adam M. Online content
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Adam M.  Online Content
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,673
Mississauga, Ontario.
+1 to Allan advice, running in hard is necessary for this engines.
Mineral oil, first change after 60 - 100 km, blast it on lower gears after engine is warmed up, minimal amount of idling.
Every blast I did was to 80% of possible revs and slowing down after. It creates heat cycles helping to set the rings right.
One retorque was good enough for my engine.

Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #514082
11/09/13 12:49 pm
11/09/13 12:49 pm
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,337
Medford, Oregon
Gary E Offline
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Gary E  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,337
Medford, Oregon
htown,
Did you mark the head nuts and bolts before and after re-torquing to see if they were ever below spec torque amounts? I've never experienced loose nuts or bolts during a torque check.


1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #514192
11/10/13 11:12 am
11/10/13 11:12 am
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 262
Houston, TX
H
HarveyH Offline OP
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HarveyH  Offline OP
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H
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 262
Houston, TX
While my experience is 90% aviation based, I have to agree with Htown on the retorque check. Air cooled engines grow and shrink quite a bit with variations in running-temperatures so a torque check following the first running of a topped engine is good advice.

I agree with all of you on not to baby new rings. My experience is to treat new rings "normally"; not too hard but not too easy either.

Harvey


1970 A65L (Yep, it's one of the "Y" bikes)
1942 HD45
1942 Boeing N2S-3
1930 Ford A
Re: Suggested source for piston rings? [Re: HarveyH] #514297
11/11/13 11:09 am
11/11/13 11:09 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,884
Cape Carteret, NC
M
Mr Mike Offline
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Mr Mike  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,884
Cape Carteret, NC
Harvey,
Since you are just replacing rings and honing off the glaze, make sure the piston skirt clearance is OK. Back in the day I have replaced rings only to later find out that new rings in a a worn bore don't fix anything. I find that with normal riding there is virtually no special "break-in" requirements. Never had a smoker at start-up after redoing a cylinder and I change 20-50w oil at 100 and 250 miles.

Mr Mike


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