Well Ray.....I'm not an expert at anything but I sure have learned a bit about rivets in the past few days.
Here's a close up of what I've found on the Internet. Pretty much what you'll find at places like Granger and McMaster-Carr.
This darn thing runs $60 or more and it's for an 1/8" rivet...you can tell looking at it that the shaft is close to 1/2" so it wouldn't work. Now did the fellows back in the day buy one of these and then machine it down to fit....we all know better than that.
I'd love to see a photo of the correct British motorcycle tool. Like I said...they were doing it way before I was born....so it has to be out there.
Lincolntbird...if and when you get a chance....would you share a photo?
Dave Parker.....Long time no see buddy.....hope you're doing well??????
I have a tool coming first of next week...I'm keeping my fingers crossed it will work.
Interesting thread. Being a sledge hammer mechanic vs finesse tool person I just always used non-drill end of a drill ground to the size/diameter I wanted. Put it in a drill press and bring it down (without turning on the press).
The other option which requires about 3 hands is just using a center punch.
All this is to say that your ideas are light years ahead of mine.
Pardon me.....I've got to go get a bigger hammer now for some points I'm adjusting................
Alan Cleared m out....left only 59 BSA Bantam (Trials) 78 Triumph Bonny (UPS) 02 Suzuki GS500
I made a gazillion brake lining rivets back in the 70's and 80,s for Milford Rivet and Acme Rivet. Never thought about setting them though. I knew the anvils were called roll sets for semi tubular rivets. The strange thing is that when I had to rivet the linings for my 61 Alfa Romeo before my cold heading days I used a JC Whitney machine that used solid rivets. Or getcha one of these and go into business. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Brake-Riveter-MILFORD-MACHINE-CO-RAYBESTOS-MODEL-865-/321227173374
I have always just put a drift in a vice the same diameter as the rivet head, sat everything on that and then hit the rivets with a drift or centerpunch a bit to get them set. Never had any problems.
Brent....I have a feeling that's the way most people do it/have done it all this time. I was just hoping to find a "correct" tool. Maybe all along there really wasn't "one" correct tool???
Since I'm not lucky enough to have my dad leave me one like my friend Dave Parker (aka drp) I ended up making something work.
I got REAL busy this week and haven't had time to update this thread.
First off, I wasn't happy with my anvil so I sorta borrowed an idea from Alan and cut a section off of the correct size drill bit (5/16 fit the countersunk holes in my shoes) and installed it in the c-clamp....replacing the first one I used.
I like the feel of this one better...the shoe doesn't slide around on the anvil now.
I found a tool that works (for me). It's a "Crafttool" Tubular Rivet Peening Tool. It's small enough to fit past the shoe and big enough to roll the rivet. It's says it for ALL size rivets but since I'm only using one size...all I can say is it works for what I'm asking it to do. It's a leather workers tool and can be found all over the Internet for less than $10.
Hard to tell in this photo but there is a very small point on the end that centers it on the rivet.
Probably prettier than it needs to be.
I want to THANK everybody for their help and imput. I think unless something else show up...I'm done with this one.
Take care....and thanks again....still kicking it in Mayberry, Opie Gone Bad (aka Gordon in NC)
No problem Rickman.....was it a lever type or hammer??? Mr Ray posted a link to a NICE lever type...but it runs $700 plus, way out of my budget. The one Dave Parker posted ( I FINALLY got the pic to load) looks like a deal...but the shaft looks like it might be a bit to wide.
I'm happy right now with what I have....now I'm looking for more linings.