I use the Rapco on the airplane pads. Works great in that application but does not work on the SLS BSA shoes, as the rivets are too close to the edge of the cast shoe curvature to be able to squeeze. Same applies when trying to use a typical aircraft handheld rivet squeezer rivet squeezer. Broke several pads trying to make them both work. Ended up utilizing bonded pads in most cases where I didn't already have complete brake shoe assembly.
1967 BSA Wasp 1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model) 1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model) 1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler 1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
My lawyer says not to post this. But, I've been using a rivet setting punch made for leather work for years. No problems with cracked linings. Maybe I just don't hit it that hard. Those brass rivets aren't that hard, I just tap until it sets evenly.
When I bought new shoes for my 7 inch TLS T100 brake, they arrived with the rivets almost flush with the brake lining surface. My Dad, a front end and brake mechanic, re sharpened a drill bit to square, drilled the holes in the shoes to the correct depth and used machine screws with the heads suitably ground flat and bolted the linings back onto the shoes. That was in '95 and I've since sold the wheel on after over 30,000 miles of trouble free braking. Some locktite on the nuts would be prudent but that solution worked for me. Cheers, Wilf
With what you've said....and what I've found out today talking with a couple of compaines. I think I can handle this.
Vintage Brake has some really good DIY tips on their web site.
Hanson has the tools I'm looking for, (learned today that they are called Rivet Punch Dies) I'd love to have one of Hansons bench mounted riveters with the right size anvil and clincher but since I won't be doing THAT much of this I'll go with the hand punch dies.
This is something I've been wanting to try for some time now....I'm looking forward to it.
Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 7,811Alex
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Joined: Sep 2002
I stopped using rivets to fasten my brake linings some time ago. My longest trial so far using JB weld epoxy has been five years on the rear brake of the royal star (maybe 20-30K miles?) and about three years on the front. The only place I'm still reluctant to try this is my roadracer.
A smattering: '53 Gold Flash '67 Royal Star '71 Rickman Metisse '40 Silver Star '37 Rudge Special sixtyseventy Lightboltrocket road racer...and many more.
Got the linings and rivets in...that's the good news.
I was wrong about what the tool I needed was called.. ....the correct one is called a Hand Rivet Clincher and wouldn't you know it Hanson doesn't have one that will work with the rivets/shoes I'm dealing with. (BSA unit single)
But....and that's a big ole... I'm shadetree and will never be anything else..but. I think I can make a tool to work with what I have in the shop. (sure wish I had a lathe ).
I pulled out my collection of used shoes (20+ pairs) and man oh man if I can't do better than some of them...I should give up on motorcycles all together.
By the looks of it.....I can do this.
Fixin to re-shoe the Roadster in Mayberry.....Opie Gone Bad
Well....I searched rivet companies, model trains, leather works and brit bike tool dealers and still came up empty handed. What I'm looking for is a Hand Rivet Roll Clincher for .151" rivets (5/32?). Now that's not the hard part because there are plenty of those around BUT the ones I found online have a shaft that's 1/2" and if you've ever done this job you know that's to big to fit in the rivet and still get pass the shoe.
Now I KNOW this (re-lining brake shoes)has been going on for longer than I have been alive so there HAS to be a tool out there...I just haven't found it yet.
So, for the time being...I jury rigged one. Cheapo small c-clamp, drive pin out of a hinge, drill press and a bench grinder.
Disclamer: This is going to make some of you cringe. I'm sorry, some of us will never be racers, restorers, mechanics or machinist...we're the DPOs you hate. But IMO we have a right to enjoy the hobby in our own way.
Okay....I gave the pros a chance to skip this part.
I took a cheap c-clamp and removed the screw. I drilled the threads out of the top so the screw would just slide through the clamp. I also found a pin out of a hinge to use as an anvil and drilled the clamp to except it and used a little expoy to help hold it in.
Then I put the screw in the drill press and with a file I worked the nub that used to hold the foot on down to a point.
Here's goes the first rivet....
Then the second...and you can see how the first rivet turned out.
I only did one shoe for now....my anvil was too tall and it bent at the groove in it (not sure what that was for?) So I shortened it then reset it.
I have a lot of these I want to do and will probably wait to see if somebody has pity on me and tells me where to find the correct tool. In the mean time I'm going to get more linings and more rivets (some of the ones I got this time are too short.)
There's a correct tool out there and the search continues.
Opie, No cringing here -- it looks to me like you have all the elements of the tool shown in the FSM, and then some. Plus you are able to keep your fingers out of smashing range. You probably don't even need to "choke up" on that hammer handle the way they showed it in the manual. Let 'er rip!:
'64 TR6R Plus some Twins from other countries (U.S., Germany, Japan)
Hey Ray.....thanks for that link . Yes, I had already been on that site looking at hand roll clinchers but not the tool you are talking about. I requested a price but I figure it's going to be more than I want to invest and it's hard to tell from the photo's if it would work.
Mr Harris.... Thank you. I've been looking online for a few days now and have found a couple of rigs similar to the one I made....but they "squeeze" the rivet instead of hammer. I swear that I found them AFTER I made mine.
Ob....yea the "key" to the roll is the shape of the tool...hence the tools name "Hand Roll Clincher". You're 100% correct...you want the rivet to roll. Here's what I'm looking for. The tool, third from the right is what I'm after.
There's a better photo online but for now I can't seem to find it. Once I do I'll replace this one with it. It's a drawing that clearly shows the profile of the tool.
Here's a shot of a .....roll clincher die and you can tell a little better what it looks like.
I've found a BUNCH of these tools for sale....from $15 -$60 BUT like Gary said in one of his replies there's a clearance problem. To get one of these tools to fit a 5/32" rivet...the shafts are running 1/2"....and that will not fit past the shoe and onto the rivet. You need something closer to 1/4". The (screw) driver for the jury rig I made is less than 5/16" (.302") and it's almost too big. So you see you don't want to spend a bunch of money just to find out the tool won't work. I have found 1/4" shafted roll clinchers but they are for much smaller rivets and from what I'm reading if you try to use them they won't roll the larger rivet correctly.
Ob....the drawing I was trying to re-find and post shows the end of the tool's profile and also gives the range in which they work. The trouble with the tool in the link you posted is they don't give you any specs so it's a crap shoot if it'll work or not. Not really a big deal....I guess you could ask them to measure the shaft for you.
BUT.....I was laying low until next week. I have more linings coming in and I "think" I found "the" tool I'm looking for. That combined with my modified cheapo c-clamp and I should have it covered. Good thing is, if they work, those tools should fit nicely in the tool box.
Problem I have for now is my stash of linings has run out and I need to find another supplier????????????????????????????
Breaking the welder out today to weld up a new bit for my B58's rearset....I finally got a folding kicker for it and it's time it gets some attention...while the brake lining thing sits on hold.
Still kicking it (yep pun intended)in Mayberry....Opie Gone Bad