FYI The early Devimead motors were just a copper tube with a couple of banjo bolts, one end into the pressure switch port and the other into the alloy bush welded onto the timing cover to carry the quill seal. A number of others used a similar manner then doing their own conversions to cut down in the machining work.
a hose. a oil line (hose) will run from the prv, modified of course, to the oil filter (norton style) and the to an ugly fat lump of alu welded to the outer timingsidecover to carry the oil-crankshaft seal. see my other pictures for details.
this time I'll try the down size the ugly lump so all will fit behind the timing side cover.
did some work today on the new engine in a well equipped workshop. -bolted the outer timing side cover to the mill-bed -used the innertiming side cover the line up spindle and main bearing centerline -drill 28 mm made the required hole -fitted inner timing side with needle roller bearing -finished seal holder ready to be welded on the outer timing side cover
crankshaft still to be modified, it is a used item and today appeared to be bent, have to check that one again or use my own crankshaft (from my still running engine, modified in '82)
axial setup will remain more or less the same, with different parts and material selection. oilpump still to choose.
Or machine the seal carrier to size after welding to allow any distortion. On one engine, I used aero-quip hose and fittings to pipe in the oil supply, this gave a bit of flexibility and looked quite tidy.
I've just removed one by using a 14 mm tap, just putting a couple of turns on the sludge trap and working it out using the tap as a puller. Very basic, but it worked. I went to do the same on the second crank I have and the tap isn't a large enough diameter! I'm going to make a dowel with a spring loaded peg to pick up the oil delivery hole. Bit like the system used on the quick adjustable alloy crutches and walking sticks you get.
Hope that helps. Cheers John
Last edited by John Goodwin; 06/05/159:47 pm.
Current: 2 x 1966 A65S, 1 x 1967 A65SA, 1 x 69/70? A65LA space Y, 1 X D14/4 & 1 x B175 Past: 4 x 1976 T160V, 1 74/5 T150V, 83 model GSX 750 ESD, Z650, Katana 1100(Bathurst Model), 79 T140V, 70's TR6, 2 x 1971 BSA 250 Gold Stars, 50's 350 Goldie, A65 Spitfire semi basket case, 1965/6? A65 LC, Tiger 21 350 & a D14/4 Bantam, 175 Bridgestone Twin with Zimmerman discs!
promised to post pictures of the timing side main bearing conversion of the old engine.
needle roller is SKF "NKI 35/20 TN" axial bearing is a modified std BSA, I made a bronze ring which is partly inserted in the main bearing bore. the axial setup has worked very well.
converted sometime in 1982~1983, all work done in the royal navy workshop. hasn't been dismantled since, used regularly for the last 8 years, total mileage after conversion, my best guess is 12~17.000 km
indeed well worth the wait, more than well worth the wait. of course it took some time but when the piece of work in on your dinner table and you start imagining the amount of work to make this out of a solid lump with all sizes to spec, all centerlines lined up, it didn't take that long.
axial bearing setup is std BSA, in one of the previous post you could see my solution used 25 years ago. this worked well and will be used again in slightly modified form. the axial bearing setup BSA used for the A65 is a normal and proper method and I've never had any issues.
of course the axial bearing can be changed but that doesn't mean it will be improved.
progress, holidays over, all the best 2016 wishes to all of you, drive safely.
finished the axial setup today had the previous engine a genuine bronze axial bearing, this one will have to do with plain alu, with some alterations.
old engine; needle roller not supported on the outside, axial bearing press-fitted into the old main bearing hole. see previous posts new engine; needle roller supported on the outside by a 4mm ridge, alu axial bearing plate loosely fitted.
as the old timing side bush + bronze insert is 4mm thick, I made the alu bearing out of a 4mm strip. It lies slightly raised above the timing side main casing material.
end float, negligable but all turns freely. casings will expand more, so no problem. actually my ducati has an negative end-float when cold.
I've got to say I really liked your original setup with the modified bush.
I had ordered anRNA4907 bearing which arrived today, the OD is bigger than yours but the 20mm width is the same. For the oil groove to align with original I'm thinking of making a 4mm ring to sit on the inner side of the crank, then maybe a thrust washer inboard of that.
Alan, with a needle roller bearing you do not want the oil spilling out of the oil groove into the bearing, that will be robbing oil pressure from the big ends. Ideally the oilway leading to the groove should be plugged, the needle roller bearing will get plenty lubrication by splash
well, not at all. as you can see in picture 3 in post #633717, the BSA-shop machined a recess into the timingside casing. probably to standard dimensions for the crank and to provide a reasonable flat surface to press the main bearing bush to. the depth of this recess is small, prob less than 1~1,5mm (1/16 inch) but enough to prevent the alu-plate from sliding forward and backward. the ends of the recess are round and the alu-plate is filled to fit preceisly. so the axial bearing fits snugly, free to move a little bit but not much.
started today with axial end float/play straightforward task: mount crankshaft in cases, measure end-float. insert spacer acc to calculation. measure end-float. finished.
still there is some voodoo involved. first measurement 0,67mm. inserted 0,65mm spacers. second measurement 0,07mm end float. hmm somewhere found another 0,05mm play. added an extra 0,05mm spacer. third measurement 0,07mm float. hmmmm, cases are made of putty. added more spacers and am satisfied at 0,04mm with the thought of putting the cases together with ducati superbond liquid gasket.