I'm ready to paint my tank and fenders on a 62 T20SS project. The tank has had the badge mounts ground off so I picked up some "Triumph" logo waterslide decals. From what I understand I need to put these on the top coat of paint, before I clear coat. Is this right? Any tips with applying waterslide decals as I've never worked with them before?
I'm working with acrylic enamel if it means anything...
I got waterslide decals from Bob and Marcia Derrick in England for my '57 BSA C12. Their instructions warned that trying to clear coat over the decal may not work. They recommended applying the decal over the paint/clearcoat and then applying an oil based varnish over the decal. My bike was finished with the base coat/clear coat paint, and I applied the decals per the instructions. After allowing them to dry for a couple of days, brushed on a thin coat of Minwax Helmsman Spar Varnish (from Lowe's). No problems, and the decals look perfect. I've seen mixed results from professional painters trying to clear coat over waterslide decals (on my bikes), some look good, some tried to lift up at the edges. The only decals I've ever seen that always seem to work with clear over them are the self stick mylar types. If you would like a word for word re-type of the instructions I got with my waterslide decals, I can try to find them for you.
Thanks for the info. If it's not too much trouble any instructions would be helpful. The guy I bought them from said to experiment on something besides my bike and sent a couple typo extras. I may try to paint a small piece of sheet metal along with my tank and fenders and try both ways.
If they are true waterslide decals it should be pretty easy. Clean and rinse the area where they are going to be applied making sure it is smooth as can be. A small speck or imperfection will ruin the decal.
A reference line(s)just beyond the final location, made with a vis-a-vis or other water soluble marker before you begin, will help with the positioning. Sometimes you get so caught up in the process it's easy to make a locating mistake. Check the symmetry leftside and right and know exactly where they're going.
Fill a small pan with warm water and submerge the decal. Wait for it to separate completely from the backing paper. Patience is required here, if you make your move too soon you'll risk tearing the decal or losing some of the "stickem" that on it's back. Once it's free from the backing carefully transfer it to the tank surface, as the name implies you'll be able to position it by sliding it around. Blot the decal with a soft cotton rag to remove excess moisture, gently squeegeing out any bubbles. When it's set up fairly well you can burnish the decal with a slick piece of paper (wax paper will do) making sure not to bump or snag the edges.
Let us know how it comes out, hope I haven't left out any steps!
Don in Nipomo
1956 Zundapp KS601EL 1960 Greeves Scottish/Hawkstone Velorex 560 1963 BSA Gold Star Spitfire 1964 Triumph T20SM 1965 BSA C15T 1966 BSA VE 1968 Bonham Tote Gote 1969 BSA VS 1970 BSA A65L (with a "Y") 1972 Husqvarna 450 WR 1986 Yamaha TT 225 1987 BMW K75C
Re: Waterslide decals#43184 04/28/052:05 am04/28/052:05 am
I am no artist , and have very little luck with any home painting type stuff on the bikes , but with waterslides , I have found it is a good idea to keep the surface wet and sorta slide the decal into position , keep things wet and sorta squeegee any air bubbles from beneath the transfer with a sponge . I learned the hard way that this can help prevent tears in the transfer , and if your decals are compaptable with your clearcoat(mine were ) then you are ok.I didnt do the paint , so you might talk withyour painter to find out if you need to do any further prep.
Thanks Don and Bonzo, sounds easy enough with some patience. I'm doing everything myself as far as painting goes, with acrylic lacquer, but right now Mother Nature is holding up the show! While I wait on warmer and drier weather I figure I'd better get my ducks in a row...
I'm really hoping I can get the hang of this, so I can finish other projects myself and save a lot of money.
How is your's coming along, Don? Waking up the neighbors yet?
Here are the instructions on waterslide decals: 1) Surface must be clean and free from grease. Cellulose or two pack finishes should be left for at least one week before applying transfers to allow vapours to escape. DO NOT FLAT SURFACE before applying transfer. 2) Immerse transfer in cold water (not ice cold) for about 15 seconds and allow transfer to curl. 3) Remove from water and allow a little waiting time for water to soften gum to release transfer from backing. At this stage the transfer and backing will flatten out again. Wait until the transfer slides freely on the backing paper. 4) Slide the transfer so the design just overlaps the backing paper, then apply by sliding out the backing from between the transfer and the work piece. Should a corner become bent underneath this can be teased out with a fine sewing needle. Be careful not to puncture transfer with the point. 5) Position and eliminate air bubbles by gently stroking transfer with the moistened side of little finger. Then mop up excess moisture and gum with kitchen paper. Check again for air bubbles after ten to fifteen minutes and if necessary repeat the procedure. 6) Allow 24 hours to thoroughly dry. Then clean off any dried gum on the transfer and surrounding workplace.
PROTECT WITH CLEAR BRUSHED VARNISH WHICH MUST BE OIL BASED (CLEAN BRUSH WITH WHITE SPIRIT OR MINERAL SPIRIT U.S.A.) CLEAR CELLULOSE AND SINGLE PACK ACRYLIC SPRAYS WILL CAUSE THE TRANSFER TO SHRINK, AVOID AT ALL COSTS
OVERCOATING WITH TWO PACK CLEAR LACQUERS Some of our customers in the specialist motor cycle painting business have perfected the art of overcoating our transfers with Two Pack clear lacquer. DO NOT ADD EXTRA THINNERS. Generally a light mist coat is applied followed by a full coat some 30 minutes later. However, not all two packs are to the same quality and we are unable to give assurances with this paint system. YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK