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A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring #429847
04/15/12 5:52 pm
04/15/12 5:52 pm
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Mattsta Offline OP
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Well, I can't work this out at all!

I can only conclude that someone has bent my rear brake pedal into a different shape because there's no way in hell that return spring is going fit around my brake pedal.

Has anyone got a photo of how it should be?

Here's what mine looks like









1952 Triumph T100 in a BSA A7 Frame
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Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Mattsta] #429851
04/15/12 6:04 pm
04/15/12 6:04 pm
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North East England
beezageezauk Offline
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Let's hope that this is clear enough.

Beezageezauk

Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: beezageezauk] #429860
04/15/12 6:43 pm
04/15/12 6:43 pm
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Mattsta Offline OP
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Hi Beezageeza

Thanks for the photo

If you look at the first pic I posted, it looks to me like my pedal has been bent immediately under the splined boss that accepts the shaft. There's no way my spring will fit.

Can you heat spring steel and form it without destroying its mechanical properties?

Incidently, I'm about to post a few pics of my wheel building session yesterday over in the Members' Projects area.

Last edited by Mattsta; 04/15/12 6:47 pm.

1952 Triumph T100 in a BSA A7 Frame
Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Mattsta] #429868
04/15/12 7:24 pm
04/15/12 7:24 pm
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North East England
beezageezauk Offline
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beezageezauk  Offline
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Hi again Mattsa,

I would suspect the rear brake pedal is wrong. Does it have a casting number on it? If so, let us know what it is and it might give us more of an idea. The casting number is normally one digit away from the part number so that could give us a clue as to which model it was off originally.

Does the brake pedal look as though it sticks a long way out when it's on the bike? It should be parallel with the primary chaincase. If it does you might be better off heating it up and bending it back into shape rather that altering the spring. Or you might even be able to manually force the spring around the brake pedal as you are positioning it. Once it's in position is shouldn't move.

I'm pleased that your wheel build was a success. Did you need to grip any of the spokes?

Beezageezauk.

Last edited by beezageezauk; 04/15/12 7:29 pm.
Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Mattsta] #429995
04/16/12 7:51 am
04/16/12 7:51 am
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Mattsta Offline OP
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Hi BG

I'll check the casting tonight for any ID numbers.

I won't know how it fits until the primary has been assembled onto the bike.

Spokes on wheel build didn't cause any problems at all.

Pics here:

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=409055#Post409055




Last edited by Mattsta; 04/16/12 8:35 am.

1952 Triumph T100 in a BSA A7 Frame
Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Mattsta] #431516
04/24/12 7:24 pm
04/24/12 7:24 pm
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Mattsta Offline OP
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Hi BG (and Allan should you find this thread)

The part number on the brake pedal is filled with paint but the numbers 42-7XXX are just visible.

The 3 parts numbers listed for A/B Group Swing arm pedals are:

42-4237 1956-1957
42-7027 1958-1960
42-7044 1961-1962

My frame is 1961 so option 3 seems most likely.

As for the difference between the 3, heaven only knows!


1952 Triumph T100 in a BSA A7 Frame
Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Mattsta] #431519
04/24/12 7:57 pm
04/24/12 7:57 pm
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beezageezauk Offline
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Hi again Mattsta,

I agree with your findings on the part numbers and would think that the actual brake lever has been previously bent for some reason. I would tend to leave the return spring as it is, wait until the outer primary cover can be set up in its correct position on the bike and then bend the brake lever back to somewhere near its original form.

A fair bit of local heat (cherry red) will be required but the material will bend back with no adverse effects. I've straightened quite a few in my time when I was fortunate enough to have the use of some oxy-acetylene burning equipment.

Beezageezauk.

Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: ] #431539
04/24/12 9:42 pm
04/24/12 9:42 pm
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Mattsta Offline OP
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Cheers chaps

This looks like the way to go.

Primary chaincase is BSA but I'm not quite certain where it is positioned with respect to the original BSA engine. The Triumph engine is in a slightly different position and the rear mounting lug on the inner chaincase has been modified to fit to the lug on the frame. There's a 1/4" thick interface plate between the inner primary and the drive side crankcase.

I think someone mullered the brake pedal to get everything to fit. The drive side footrest mounting has also been mounted on a non standard spacer which suggest the chaincase is sticking a little bit further out than on a standard bike.


1952 Triumph T100 in a BSA A7 Frame
Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Mattsta] #431683
04/25/12 4:35 pm
04/25/12 4:35 pm
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Rickman Offline
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Mattsta,
I know I have at least two of the brake pedals.
One goes onto a splined shaft across the frame, through the swing arm pivot.

One is for the QD style wheel, no splines.

Of the two I have, that go with the splined shafts, they are different, ONLY in the pad area where you place your foot; one is cross hatched, the other is wider and grooved front to back.

The two return springs I have, each one has a slight bump outward... Was yours straight?
Brett

P.S. going back and looking at your pics again, it looks straight.... Might work on a QD set-up, might be for another application...

Last edited by Rickman; 04/25/12 4:39 pm.
Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Rickman] #431685
04/25/12 5:04 pm
04/25/12 5:04 pm
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Mattsta Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: Rickman
Mattsta,
I know I have at least two of the brake pedals.
One goes onto a splined shaft across the frame, through the swing arm pivot.

One is for the QD style wheel, no splines.

Of the two I have, that go with the splined shafts, they are different, ONLY in the pad area where you place your foot; one is cross hatched, the other is wider and grooved front to back.

The two return springs I have, each one has a slight bump outward... Was yours straight?
Brett

P.S. going back and looking at your pics again, it looks straight.... Might work on a QD set-up, might be for another application...


Hi Rick

My pedal is the type that fits to a splined cross-over shaft that rotates inside the swinging arm pivot. The foot pad is cross-hatched.

The part numbers are posted above in my post to Beezageeza. There are 3 of them and I don't know how they differ from eachother. My bike has a 1961 chassis so I expect the brake pedal has the part number for that year but the part number is filled with paint and difficult to read.

Part numbers are:

42-4237 1956-1957
42-7027 1958-1960
42-7044 1961-1962

These are all the cross-over type pedals

The part number is cast into the back of the arm facing the chaincase.

Last edited by Mattsta; 04/25/12 5:08 pm.

1952 Triumph T100 in a BSA A7 Frame
Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Mattsta] #431726
04/25/12 9:51 pm
04/25/12 9:51 pm
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Rickman Offline
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Well Mattsta,
You've got me scratching my head....

On the cross hatched pedal, someone polished the numbers off, and chromed it.
On the grooved one, the part #, or casting #, whichever it really is, it's 42-4347

Oh, and on the one for the QD wheel, it also was polished off.... And chromed...
Brett

Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Rickman] #431796
04/26/12 7:00 am
04/26/12 7:00 am
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Mattsta Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: Rickman
Well Mattsta,
You've got me scratching my head....

On the cross hatched pedal, someone polished the numbers off, and chromed it.
On the grooved one, the part #, or casting #, whichever it really is, it's 42-4347

Oh, and on the one for the QD wheel, it also was polished off.... And chromed...
Brett


I'm scratching mine too!

If you have a digital camera and a spare 1/2 hour, post a couple piccies of it.

42-4347 is listed as an A7/A10 brake pedal. I don't know which year though.


1952 Triumph T100 in a BSA A7 Frame
Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Rickman] #431844
04/26/12 1:07 pm
04/26/12 1:07 pm
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North East England
beezageezauk Offline
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beezageezauk  Offline
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Hey Mattsta,

I've just been looking at your problem from another angle. The actual brake return spring for all the pre-unit swinging arm models A7, A10, B31 and B33 all have the same part number.

This tells me that your problem is definitely with the brake lever. Although there are different part numbers for the brake levers I've interchanged those from 1956/57 models with 58/62 models and vice-versa (without realising) with no problems.

Oh...BTW...my information shows that 42-7044 is for the Spitfire Scrambler brake lever. 42-7042 is the equivalent for the later A7/A10.

Beezageezauk.

Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: beezageezauk] #431845
04/26/12 1:33 pm
04/26/12 1:33 pm
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Mattsta Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: beezageezauk
Hey Mattsta,

I've just been looking at your problem from another angle. The actual brake return spring for all the pre-unit swinging arm models A7, A10, B31 and B33 all have the same part number.

This tells me that your problem is definitely with the brake lever. Although there are different part numbers for the brake levers I've interchanged those from 1956/57 models with 58/62 models and vice-versa (without realising) with no problems.

Oh...BTW...my information shows that 42-7044 is for the Spitfire Scrambler brake lever. 42-7042 is the equivalent for the later A7/A10.

Beezageezauk.





Hi BG

Yup. I was aware that the spring is common so it deffo looks like the problem is with the lever itself.

I'll see if something can be done with my lever once the primary drive is assembled.

Plenty of other problems to resolve at the moment

My major headache at the moment is I had the front brake drum skimmed BEFORE I re-spoked the rim........with predictable results! It now binds! DOH!!!!!!


1952 Triumph T100 in a BSA A7 Frame
Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: Mattsta] #431852
04/26/12 3:02 pm
04/26/12 3:02 pm
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North East England
beezageezauk Offline
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Mattsta,

Try slackening the large nut (42-5864)on the end of the fulcrum. This is a type of adjuster so (hopefully)without teaching you how to suck eggs the correct way to set up a BSA brake is to slacken off that nut, build the brake up, put the wheel in the forks and connect up the brake cable and lever. Operate the brake by applying as much pressure as you can to the lever and whilst the pressure is held on tighten up the nut. This allows the brake shoes to centralise themselves in the drum and gives a better brake.

If this doesn't work then consider getting your hub skimmed and repeat the above process.

Beezageezauk.

Re: A7/A10 rear brake pedal return spring [Re: beezageezauk] #431857
04/26/12 3:28 pm
04/26/12 3:28 pm
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Mattsta Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: beezageezauk
Mattsta,

Try slackening the large nut (42-5864)on the end of the fulcrum. This is a type of adjuster so (hopefully)without teaching you how to suck eggs the correct way to set up a BSA brake is to slacken off that nut, build the brake up, put the wheel in the forks and connect up the brake cable and lever. Operate the brake by applying as much pressure as you can to the lever and whilst the pressure is held on tighten up the nut. This allows the brake shoes to centralise themselves in the drum and gives a better brake.

If this doesn't work then consider getting your hub skimmed and repeat the above process.

Beezageezauk.



Hi BG

I've already clocked the drum with a dial gauge so I know it is out by enough to cause problems.


1952 Triumph T100 in a BSA A7 Frame

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