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#4295 - 08/26/05 9:46 pm Sparx Alternator Pre-Install Questions  
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 285
Brian_Dallas_TX Offline
BritBike Forum member
Brian_Dallas_TX  Offline
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 285
Dallas, TX
Howdy All!

Just got my 3 phase alternator for my '65 A65 and had a couple of questions. I read the install instructions and they referred me directly to the Clymer & Haynes books. Upon reading both, they replaced the alternator during a complete rebuild. I'm not doing that. So, am I going to need to completly remove the top end, pistons etc. and block the conrods so they won't move when I remove the nut? Logic tells me yes, but am I missing a trick here? Also anything else that I need to pay attention to?

Last time I had the head off for a new gasket, I noticed a bit of fluffy carbon build up on the right piston. Should I clean this off, and if so what is the best method.

Bike runs great except for the light draining the battery and screwing with the Boyer! So here is to another sweaty weekend in the garage! beerchug

Thanks in Advance,

Brian


Brian
'64 B40T Enduro Star '49 AJS 18CS
'65 A65L/R '71 BMW R75/5
'71 B25T '02 Bonnie
'63 A10 SR
'47 James ML 125
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#4296 - 08/26/05 10:26 pm Re: Sparx Alternator Pre-Install Questions  
Joined: Jan 2003
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drp Offline
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drp  Offline
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Posts: 554
west central ohio where all be...
Couple of ways I have used depending on how tight it is;
1. Put it in gear, have an assistant stand on the rear brake pedal and loosen the nut.
2. Buy the clutch plate locking tool or make one with an old driving and driven plate with a bar attached. Have an assistant hold the bar and loosen the nut.
3. Make a chain wrench with an old drive chain and a piece of pipe, put it in gear, use the wrench to lock the transmission and loosen the nut.

On my triumph the torque spec on the nut is only 30 ft lb.

Dave

#4297 - 08/27/05 6:54 pm Re: Sparx Alternator Pre-Install Questions  
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 12,050
Lannis Online content
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Lannis  Online Content

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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 12,050
Central Virginia
Brian -

I wouldn't take the top end off to change the alternator.

I use an air-impact wrench to loosen the crank sprocket/rotor nut, that always works. If you don't have compressed air where the bike is, you're going to have to find a clever way to lock up the tranny and back wheel and loosen the nut while the clutch is still on the bike.

You WILL want to be able to get to the bottom of the engine easily, however, since the hardest part of the job is going to be feeding the stator wires through the inner primary and fish them out from behind the front final drive sprocket somehow.

Lannis


OK, I admit it, I'm addicted to brake fluid.

But I can stop any time I want.
#4298 - 08/27/05 7:50 pm Re: Sparx Alternator Pre-Install Questions  
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,850
dave - NV Online content
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dave - NV  Online Content
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,850
Elko, Nevada USA
If the method described putting the bike in 4th gear with the brake on doesn't work to remove the nut try wacking the wrench handle with a hammer.
If no joy ...
Lannis is Very Correct regards removal of the crank nut. I too use a low cost air impact for such things.
Be sure to have the correct size socket on hand. For larger nuts there are generally US SAE sizes that will fit OK. Measure.
Many many guys have an electric impact wrench for such things and they are available low cost from a local Harbor Frieght store. Most/all tool rental stores will also have them available. I suggest buying one.
Trust me .. an impact wrench is indespensible in the shop for those 'once in awhile' needs. They sure work well changing car and truck wheels too.

And don't even think about removing your top end for this easy project.. makes no sense.
dave - NV


dave - NV
#4299 - 08/28/05 2:25 pm Re: Sparx Alternator Pre-Install Questions  
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 285
Brian_Dallas_TX Offline
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Brian_Dallas_TX  Offline
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 285
Dallas, TX
Lannis, Dave, DRP-

Thank you for your suggestions. During the install, it seemed really obvious to not take off the top end. The install was a snap. Hardest part was fishing the wires, in which I used a piece of 12ga wire and a bent coat hanger to get it up through the gromet hole. Took about an hour for that, because it wasn't immediately obvious.

I ended up using a wrench and hammer on the rotor nut. I have both electric and cordless impact wrenches, but didn't have the right sized socket. Was a 15/16ths I think.

Thanks again for the suggestions! A couple on me.... :stout: :stout: :stout:

Brian


Brian
'64 B40T Enduro Star '49 AJS 18CS
'65 A65L/R '71 BMW R75/5
'71 B25T '02 Bonnie
'63 A10 SR
'47 James ML 125

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