Here I am trying to clean/reassemble the latest A-10 engine. The thing was completely overhauled so all I really have to do is clean/polish everything and put it back together but for some reason I am having trouble removing the wire clips for the gudgeon pins . I have typically been able to slide them in the groove and prise up on an end and work them around and they fly out . Never removed new ones ? Are these generally this tight or am I looking at a loctite situation?I don't wanna get midievil on it if there is a trick.I feel compelled to strip these to polish the domes and rods .
Even though this thing was totally overhauled I am very pleased that I opted to strip it to bits as everything was assembled with grease that was filled in the bearings as well as the bush, blocking the oil passage .I believe I just caught a glimpse at why a lotta BSA engines grenade after a lotta machine work.
Good point,with grease blocking lubrication holes.Why didn't they use oil?
I can't imagine anyone using Loctite on a wire circlip.Maybe the ends of the wire are burred.A scriber or small screwdriver usually does the job,to move the gap to a better position.Sometimes they'll move easier in one direction.
If all else fails,I'd solder something to one end of the circlip.Then use the "something" to pull it out of its groove. At least you only need to remove the outer circlips.The inner ones can stay there and not cause a problem.
The clips are just being mean. Do they rotate in their seats or are they "frozen" into place? If they rotate around, you just need to grind the right kind of a point onto an awl or pick, and work 'em till they holler "UNCLE".
If they've been glued in place with something, a session with a little butane torch should convince them to come out.
A little skim of engine assembly lube on a cam or wrist pin is OK, but why someone would pack an engine full of grease is beyond me. Grease, red Loctite, and blue silicone seal - they ought not be sold without a prescription ....
I'm like super lazy today. It's like normal lazy, but I'm wearing a cape.
The only reason I ever found a circlip to be "frozen" into place, was because the wrist pin had slid hard up against the circlip.
You might try to heat the piston up a bit, and try to slide the wrist pin away from the circlip?
I am REALLY glad I finally bought a wrist pin removal tool. No more possibility of putting unnecessary shock loads sideways to the rods anymore.
It has been my experience that the wrist pins used with circlips, have their outer end edges chamfered, enough so that they might capture the circlip into it's groove, if pushed hard against the circlip. When there is a situation where the wrist pin cannot float enough, the piston or the small rod end bush holds onto the wrist pin hard enough, it can hold the pin against the circlip too well.
Spiral locks and their wrist pins are differently made... I suppose the pin can also be held tightly enough against the spiralock to make a near similar situation happen...
Just do NOT use a circlip in a spiralock groove, or a spiralock in a circlip groove, neither set-up will work for long.
This is pretty much what I expected to read, looks like time for the blowtorch.Pistons(and preumably wrist pins as they fit pretty snug)are new . None of the four clips will budge at all.
The grease scared me a bit but the machining looks great ,especilly pleased with TS bush .My Sherlock type guess is the PO was looking for a reliably built fugly to look at machine since the only clean part on it is the head (prolly blasted at the machinists )and he left the frame crusty and had a nicely painted likeness of a rat eating cheese,that might stay on there .
Update .... DONE . A bit of propane did the deed.-Thanks again
Grease is just oil suspended in 'soap'. The engine oil will thin it and the engine will lubricate fine. Grease will NOT plug oil holes. The oil is under pressure and will push the grease into the oil tank.
Circlips are are usually steel and thus dissimilar to the alloy pistons. Dissimilar metals will weld themselves together via galvanic corrosion. Teflon 'buttons' are a better means to an end.
Really ?Galvanic reaction with a circlip? Never seen that trick.these had some sort of clear residue , almost looked like super glue.Warming a piston with a propane torch is gonna cause a failure ?I can't tell you how many times I've done this , on H-D you pretty much do this just to beat the light interference fit with the gudgoen pin, never broke a piston,I'll take my chances .If you wanna use grease rather than assembly lube ,what can I say ,I aint building a clapped out American V-8.