Screw the spring nuts down until the the studs almost enter the slotted part of the nut.You will screw them down further as you adjust,but you don't want a nut screwed in so far you can't release it.There must be space to fit a screwdriver between the nut and cup to push the spring away from the nut,or you won't ever get the nut off again.
Adjust the pushrod with freeplay in the cable.Screw the adjuster in until it pushes against the pushrod,then back it off 1/2 turn and lock it.Adjust up the cable to about 1/8" freeplay.
Pull the clutch lever and use the kickstarter.Watch how much wobble there is at the presssure plate.Tighten one or two springs to reduce the wobble.Mark the pressure plate near one spring,to keep track of your adjustments.
Pull the clutch and use the kickstarter a few times before you do more adustments.Try to get the pressure plate consistently running within 0.010"-0.015".
If it's looking good,you can screw all the nuts down an equal number of turns,so the studs are within the slot of the nut but not fully through the nut.(Not so far you can't release the nut,and not enough to make the lever hard to pull.)
Check the runout again.Start the engine and pull the clutch a few times.See if the pressure plate runs true each time.If it's within 0.015" each time,that's pretty good.
With the engine running,select first gear.Shift to second,then back to neutral.Check the rotor-to-stator clearance,while you have the primary cover off.If all seems good,fit the primary cover.
Thank you very much Pete. I used what you gave me and watched the video by Plewsy a couple of times. I managed to get the new primary chain, clutch and reconditioned rotor back together. I followed the given steps for adjustment and managed to fire it up. Even took it to the end of the block and back without incident.
Proof that even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while. Hopefully the doc will let me start riding my bikes again soon.
If you have the funds buy one of the cast aluminium pressure plates , they are less likely to distort then the stamped steel one and have a neat little thrust bearing arrangement for the pushrod. They are pretty cheap.
WHAT? WOW? REALLY? Just another procedure I should have had when I was installing my new clutch pack....Oh well, the clutch, like everything else, seems to be working perfect employing DPO tactics and principles that I have up to this point!
If you love it, let it go. If it comes back, you've highsided!"
1971 Triumph T120 2005 Triumph "America" 1976 BMW R90/6