Lannis, Life is full of interesting stuff. I happen to agree with you on the primary and would much prefer to look at little inexpensive changes to the clutch that can vastly improve it's performance...like additional plates or modified pressure plates. OTOH, who are we to say...I love to look at custom bikes and cars. In most cases their owners will go to great lengths and exacting detail to make their bike or car look cool and neat but in the process ruin the ride or at best don't improve it. Choppers and street rods come to mind. If I had a grand or more to invest in bike stuff, I'd probably be looking to find something else to drag home...but to each his own.
I really dont like the idea of a belt drive primary on a streetbike but having had a carpal tunnel release in both hands I do like a light clutch pull.Quite honestly I think an A-10 with a 6 spring clutch can have a delightfully light pull. I do have a frankenstein project A-10 ,sort of a "what if" bike . On this one I fitted a slave hydraulic cylinder from a Ducati to the clutch release . this was surprisingly simple and a one finger pull .
My A65 three spring is not an easy pull. I set it up with a dial and back out the screws as far as possible (until it slips under hard load). I make sure the cable is lubed and as straight as possible but that is about all that can be done.
On my B50 I added a 6th plate. Some of the newer after market plates are thinner and it was possible to add an additional friction disc that greatly increase clutch capacity and permits much lighter lever pull. I haven't tried to nor do I know whether it is be possible on an A65 or A10 but it might be worth investigating. I can send you a writeup if you wish.
Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 7,811Alex
BritBike Forum member
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Sep 2002
I assume it's a swingarm model? A10 plunger clutches can be delightfully light but effective. A dry clutch, all else being the same will always require substantially less pressure to be effective. That's why the plunger clutches and belt drive clutches tend to be much lighter. A belt drive will give you what you want, but it will be expensive....but you already knew that. Careful setup of the stock clutch and extra plates can also improve things....but it will never be as light as a dry clutch.
A smattering: '53 Gold Flash '67 Royal Star '71 Rickman Metisse '40 Silver Star '37 Rudge Special sixtyseventy Lightboltrocket road racer...and many more.
Use a Nylon lined clutch cable. I very much like Flanders Cables offerings.
Insure your barrel end is free to rotate within the lever. Lube with light machine oil.
Also, I was surprised to find how much different the pull was after I cleaned the operating rod bore (in the transmission) with a rifle brush. I hooked it up to a dewalt drill and ran the brass up and down the bore. I got a LOT of junk out of there.
Afterwards, I polished the operating rod on a wheel (cleaned) and reassembled with grease.
Insuring you have the correct geometry (adjustment) for the operating arm is also key.
I have a BNR belt drive now, but I had the Original 5 spring working with one finger (no slip).
Lastly, if your clutch basket has been abused and has notches in it from the clutch plate, none of the above is going to matter. Its going to fight you.