a good start...why oh why in the hell do people put those extended forks on bikes?? when you get the new ones keep those long jobs...they make great pry bars
Ditto on the pry bars - you can slip them over the end of a big wrench and REALLY get some leverage.
On long forks - back in the 40's, people who actually wanted better performance out of their Harley Davidsons would find Harley "XA" forks to put on their stock U and E and F models, to raise the front end a couple of inches so that the primary cases and footboards wouldn't scrape the road on a turn so easy.
When telescopic forks came along, they'd add a couple inches to the length with a "slug" screwed into the upper end.
Someone said "Hey, that guy's bike is faster than mine now, I want to make mine look like HIS!"
And then someone said "Well, if two inches is good, 10" must be FIVE TIMES AS GOOD!!". And then someone said "Wow, that's cool, let's ALL do it."
And then people who couldn't afford Harleys started doing it to their beater BSAs and Triumphs. At some point, no one noticed that simply adding length to the front end did NOT improve the handling of a BSA, but who cared?
Those, and 16" rear wheels with no other mods ... "I want a Harley but I can't have one! It's just as good as a Xerox!"
You can engineer a bike with those mods to handle decent, but just adding bits like that turns it into a dog ...
I bought another complete set of forks off of a member here but after realizing my "new" lowers wouldnt fit the wheel from my "old" forks (the new ones are quick disconnect) I ended pulling apart all four legs to swap the "old" lowers onto the "new" legs.....
these being the "old" style forks theyre stone simple to pull apart....
pull it out of the triple tree and slide the spring and boot off....
unthread the chrome "seal holder" from the lower and pop the snap ring out.....bobs your uncle theyre apart...
drive the old seals out and slide the new well-lubricated ones in if you had to split the upper and lower like i did (usually you dont unless you need to swap tubes or you need new bushes) slide the upper back into the lower put the shim into place and pop the snap ring back in
theread the seal holder back on with a bit of teflon tape then the spring and boot and replace in the triple
theyre really very simple
I have new boots coming (as well as a set of stock headlight ears but I've got it back together enough to roll it around I need to pull the wheels when my tires come in anyhow
I'll need a new front brake cable (or cut this one down) as well and should figure out how to run a brake light switch on the front of this
brakes were in great shape so I just hosed them with some cleaner and lubed the pivot points
wheel bearings were very good condition as well
makes a BIG difference right??
the old tubes were 10" (!!!!) over
oh I didnt find anything really funky other than pieces of galvanized water pipe being used as spring spacers
I wonder if you could send those long legs to Forking by Frank, and have him cut them down to the correct length, for a decent price, since you wouldn't be outright buying a set of tubes.... They look to be in better condition than the ones you bought...
Probably little used, once the owner found out how evil they handled?
Great job on a budget build so far ,judging by the sporty I am sure thisone will be a work in progress until you hit that level.Be careful , I was a sporty guy for nearly 20 years when I saw the light with a BSA,lost all interest in the old ironhead and never regretted it .
Anyway , the bike is coming along great , the fork ears, rubber boots and siamesed pipes should add to the caff look but if you don't mind my saying , that bike is screaming for a twin carb head and the trimmed sidecovers . Those deeper enclosed covers are awesome but they look like a touring bike ,maybe something to think about at the next swapmeet .Personally I wouldn't get rid of the original stuff but if you wanna swap,I gots some stuff .BTW , dont lettem talk you outta the orange , did that for a lotta years on my sporty , went yellow on the Beeza , purple(deep amethyst , could it get gayer??) on the latest one, I like 'em to look "right" but I have never been a big fan of "correct" or "original" unless I got the bike that way and then I typically flip them to someone who can appreciate that .
I can't wait to see what you finish up with, it's lookin' GREAT so far! Hope to ride with you at Steubenville some year, you on your A65 cafe', an' me on my... rocker? cafe'? altered, anyway... A10... Brett
waiting on a primary cover gasket,new sidecovers (I swapped my "touring" wrap-around ones for a smaller set off of a twin-carb) need to pull my wheels and take them down to Jebby for my new rubber and a new front brake cable
front fender will get mounted once I have my new rubber on (or not..I'm replacing the 3.25 that's on it with a 3.50 .......there MAY not be enough clearance....have to see)
I'm going with "antique" plates eventually anyhow which means I won't need a yearly inspection so the fender wouldnt matter one way or another..
still need a muffler as well.......or an empty can to stick there to extend the exhaust a bit
a day or so of "small stuff" ....mostly checking bolts are tight ,wiring tied up ,etc...that kind of shit
wire a new plug on the headlight ....these beezers use a size I didnt have one of so I made a clamp to hold an H-4 halogen in my Lucas lens
first on the list once I reload the wallet a little in some new shocks.....
these sag a little too much for my liking....
they must just be wore out....yeah.....that's it....that's the ticket....
well for now anyhow she's all done....(with the exception if my center stand...still need to go to the hardware and find a spring for it)
took it on a 50 mile "test ride" today and think I have her about dialed in
rides REALLY nice......
while not a speed-demon (although she WILL go...just takes a little while to get there....I think I need a little less gearing) she's just fine on the highway and a STELLAR 40-60 MPH "country road" performer....which is EXACTLY what I wanted
re-wire a BUNCH of stuff (over the winter I believe I am going to COMPLETELY rewire with a new custom harness) including running fuses on the battery,reg/rec,lights and ignition
convert to 12V with my stock 6V coils and a ballast resistor (like on a norton or older cars)
sealed beam halogen (I didn't like the pattern my Lucas lens threw with the new halogen bulb)
rebuiild forks with stock length tubes
clean,clean and more cleaning
cut all the goofy brackets etc that the PO put on
2:1 pipe and smaller dual-carb side covers (thanks Bonzo)
errrr I'm probably missing some stuff but you get the idea
grand total (every dime I spent INCLUDING what I paid for the bike AND the whitworth tools I bought ) is just UNDER a thousand bucks (and I still have a set of triples and a pair od quick-disconnect sliders to sell)
Just goes to show, that you don't have to spend a fortune to have a nice rider Britbike, even today.
I would never have guessed that you could have a bike like that on the road for $1000. You really leveraged the $250 original cost with some mechanical skills (and some good luck that the engine wasn't trashed - so many of them ARE!) and ended up with a winner.
I'm not yet sure what I am doing for paint yet....
it won't be untill the season is over at any rate...
I'm kind of looking for a 60s-70s style "flake" open face helmet and I'm kind of waiting to see what color helmet I pick up before I decide on paint color....
in the running (as everything stands right now) is candy apple red over a heavy gold flake base or candy tangerine over the same base
I know I got lucky......but if all else failed I figured I could part it out for what I had in it
re pipe/muffler: I would have loved to have a nice "cocktail shaker" on it but that was $70 vs FREE for this one(I have a friend that owns a shop that does mostly ironhead sportsters..this was in one of his "bins"...was a no-brainer on a limited budget
I'm not sure if I like the overall shape but I dig the little "fin" on it so for now it is staying
re toolbag: yeah I liked it there as well....much easier to get into and holds more stuff than the other side bag.....
ive got some tools in my stock bag and just keep a plug wrench,spare plugs,feelers (I'm still running points)a multit-tip screwdriver,zip ties,spare fuses and a little bottle of MMO (for when I put gas in it)in the left side one
i just punched a couple holes low on the back of the bag to zip-tie it about where the passenger peg goes so it doesnt "flop" on me
thanks for the compliments guys....I'm having a GREAT time with this
it turned out to be a spectacular back road putting around bike which like I said is EXACTLY what I anted
Wow! Bought in May, scrounged and running finished by July, you're an inspirational icon.
Will you be at Mid-Ohio next weekend? Or Steubenville in August?
If you must replace the seat, keep me in mind? I may have to try it out on a bike, and see how one fits me....
Nice to see you 'recycling' unwanted parts, like a king/queen seat?
I am seeing the right side tank badge starting to crack? Since those blue ones are so hard to find [?], maybe you might want to take 'em off for show, and find some repop others to use while riding the bike regularly? I THINK there was a thread about saving cracking badges? It'll be a hunt, if the author doesn't point that thread out...
Another item you may want to add to your futures list; even with you off the bike, it appears to me that the fork springs may be sacked out...? You may want to replace them? And as you look to be a taller and huskier fellow than I am, you might wish to specify springs for use with a sidecar?
I often bottomed out my old A10 forks, and wished I had known about sidecar springs then....
Maybe you can now tell a spring supplier the weight of you and your bike, and new springs can be made to order?
Again, Forking by Frank said they have fork springs for side car use, but those may be a one weight pre-tensioned set of springs.... I don't know if Frank can get springs of any other pressure tension or not...
I'm looking forward to seeing and hearing the bike run! Yeah, it looks like you will be more comfortable with the more upright seating position. Brett