May be a sophmoric question but my 1966 BSA Spitfire has the hardest clutch pull of all of my bikes and it seems worse this spring (or I am weaker?) Anyway, I have not replaced one on a BSA before...do I need to get into the right side cover? Any tricks? WIll I need anything besides a cable...or is it pretty straight forward?
The hardest part is to get a cable that is correct in all respects, total length, free cable length and adjustable fittings if required.
You will need to take off the right side cover. Once in have a look at exactly how the arm is positioned before you take out the cable. Adjustments are a bit tricky as that arm must be have enough room to move in to fully free the clutch plates but not so much room that it touches the outer cover as that will prevent the clutch from fully engaging.
Adustments are a balance between the use of the centre bolt on the clutch side and the slack in the cable set by the cable adjusters.
Without frequent roadside repairs there is no fun in riding!
Re: Replacing clutch cable...what can I expect?#37802 04/17/0810:07 am04/17/0810:07 am
The next thing to do is go to a push bike shop & buy a bottle of "TRI-FLOW" and by preference get the "dry" type. Good idea to go to the bar first for a few stiff ales, then the price will be less of a shock. It is not cheap but worth twice what they ask for it.
A stiff clutch will quickly wear the pivot and then become even harder to pull . Do yourself and the bike a big favour & buy one of the alloy pressure plate kits with the radial roller bearing lifters. That will turn your wrist breaking monster into a 2 finger marvel.
Bike Beesa Trevor
Re: Replacing clutch cable...what can I expect?#37804 04/17/088:42 pm04/17/088:42 pm
My A65 clutch is the best clutch I have on any of my bikes, never slips, never grabs, doesn't heat up in traffic, an easy pull. Doesn't need a "freeing up" kick even if it's sat for a few weeks.
My formula is:
1) Best clutch cable you can buy, lubricated with dry graphite.
2) (tip from Dan Danmeier) Whenever you check your oil, touch the dipstick to the clutch cable end fitting in the lever to lube it.
3) Barnett plates, alloy pressure plate, ATF in the primary. Adjust the springs as light as you can so it does not slip at hard accleration from about 3000 RPM in third gear.
And on the pre-70 models, you don't have to pull the timing cover to change the clutch cable. The cable actually connects to the actuator outside the case, under a rubber sleeve which you can skin back and just lift the cable out of its slot.
But as has been mentioned, it's probably a good idea to remove the cover so you can see just how close the actuating lever is coming to it. It ought to be as close as it can be without touching it when fully extended.
We're approaching the tipping point ... where those who vote for a living will outnumber those who work for a living .....
Re: Replacing clutch cable...what can I expect?#37807 04/18/083:47 am04/18/083:47 am
Ok...cable is on..but, as warned here, the sheath is to long (routing is goofy) but more importantly the free cable appears to be just a fraction to short. handlebar adjuster is wound all of the way out and clutch is just engaged. On reassembly I figured I would kick it through once just to be sure and...no resistance so I assume the clutch is engaged. If I pull on the arm just a bit it will kick the motor over. Adjustments on the clutch side (left?)
I gave up trying to buy cables that were the proper fit for any of my BSA's many years ago. We used to have an after market shop called Ommodies who could just about always get the correct ( pattern) cable for any of my bikes various combinations of brakes & handle bars.
I now go to my local wrecker ( breaker to some of you). They sell universal cable kits because it is impossible to stock the 1.5 million different cables to suit non British motorcycles.
They come in 50mm incriments with 4 different sized inner free lengths. Better still they all have a pear at both ends and a bag of slip on nipples & drums so I not only get a cable that fits properly but floating drums as well.
If you need to put a slip on ferrule on the end of a cable it is a good idea to pop a piece of heat shrink tube over it to prevent it falling off should the cable run slack for whatever reason.