Appreciate the input, but I know for a fact that the clutch effort problem is due to the config of the levers on the bars. Certain EMGO levers have a 1-1/16 pivot hole to cable hole spacing and the correct spacing is 7/8". The difference makes for a 30% increase in effort. I had a similar problem on my T140V when I bought an Emgo lever to replace an OEM lever with peeling chrome. The difference in effort is truly striking. I confirmed this on my T-bolt by borrowing a lever from a '66 T120R I have and putting it on the T-bolt. Clutch pull returned to normal.
I suspect that there are a number of folks out there that are unaware of this Emgo lever issue. The dealer I got my spare from was not aware and he's been in the Brit bike business over 40 years. Another local shop that sells these levers also said he's never gotten a complaint. He did say he think that most Emgo levers go on bike people are fixing up to unload and maybe don't care. I may have overstated the effort. It's rideable, but certainly not enjoyable. regards, Rob
Picked up my engingine from SRM on Wednesday 30th March!
Those guys have done a great job, crank balance, new big ends, small ends, polished rods, new oil pump, welding to bottom of cases, roller bearing conversion and crank end feed, Spifire cam, stainless pressure release valve, all bearings/bushes/seals replaced, all threads cleanened and re-tapped and then rebuilt!
Wheels and tyres next!
The wife is hoping it will be finished by August as I can tell she may be getting annoyed about "BSA parts in every room of the house" , which is untrue as they're aren't any in our bedroom or the bathroom! Women, eh! LOL
Thanks Mark. Sorry for the late reply. I'm in the Albany area, but have a summer place on Oneida Lake. Bunch of Brit bike riders out there.
Bought the bike for a less than a quarter of what was invested in the bike. And I got all the receipts with it. It was a good day for sure. What's nice is if I wanted to make it absolutely 100% perfect, I could do that now without breaking the bank. It just small stuff. regards, Rob
Here's my 1970 A50. My dad bought it from a family friend back in the 80s; the last time it was registered was 1989. The PO chopped it and painted it black to match his friend's lightning. I've spent the last year sorting it mechanically and doing inexpensive fixes to cosmetics (polishing aluminum, repainting rusty side covers, etc).
In the future, I will need to decide whether to take it down for a restoration. It runs great now, and I am happy with it for the time being. There's a definite charm to the un-restored frame with its minor flaws and character.
Thanks to all the good people on the BSA forum for the advice they've given me so far. I started this knowing almost nothing and now have rebuilt many of the key components of the bike.
I see a set of OIF B25 or B50T fork legs complete with alloy yokes. I think the wheel is part of the same set so it should be able to converted into something more A65 related, and very easily at that.
I guess you intend to take it back to something a little more original. All the best with it.
Thanks, Kevin. Actually, I posted that pic to show a completed project. I dragged home a big pile of nasty wrecked stuff a while back. A65 frame had some of the back cut off, and had some kind of 60s Japanese neck welded on it. I welded on the front of a wrecked B25 and the back of a wrecked Triumph chopper.
Ooops, sorry about that Leon. We don't get to see many machines like that down here. Some may have been imported as rebuild projects when they were shipping them here by the container load 15 years ago.
I think our vehicle testing stations guys would have a fit if something like that rocked up..... Is it street legal in the states ?