You really need a dedicated earth line from the turn signal housing to the red earth line on the bike (whether it is the standard red earth line or a SPG is of second order importance). I have always found that it is possible (although sometimes difficult) to get an earth wire through the center of the stem. Then fit a small ring terminal and put that under one of the screws holding the reflector bowl into the turn signal housing and the other end as mentioned to the red earth line or SPG system.
What T-man said. It IS a tight fit, but it can be threaded thru the stem/stalk....standard automotive wire (16 guage, 18 strands). Tied into the ground for the headlight in the bucket.
'77 T140J "Vintage Bike". What's in your garage?
"The paying customer is always right."
Fitting round pegs into square holes since 1961...
Nice photo of how to do it Steve! BTW I have had stems where it would have been impossible to get wire through of the size shown in Steves photo. I normally use wire of about half that diameter. However the important thing is not the size of the wire but getting a wire there. As stated previously the duty on the wire is low--less than 2 amps and intermittent even when in use and then not in use for most of the time. HTH
Steve---OK---yes thanks---I see it now. Problem with getting old (no not old just less young!) I guess---seeing double! Seriously---thanks for posting the photo----I was trying to explain it in words but as usual---one picture is worth a thousand words.
A couple of crossed and bad connecions found and now have good connections front to rear. If I manually ground the front signals, I actually have the right side working! I have some new connectors coming to replace the shakey units.
My guess is the left side will come around once the grounds are set completely. The indicator lamp flashed as well. The stalks are definately limited clearance as noted in the comments. I'll figure a way to get something connected through there.
I have a white/red wire under the tank coming from the left switch that is not connected anywhere. I can't find that color on the wiring diagram, it's under the lower button on the switch. If memory serves, that is the engine kill switch, which was working previously, I must have disconnected it under the tank when working on the signal wires. I don't see a matching wire running fore or aft to connect it to.
Other than that, looks like I'm on my way to happy signaling land.
I have a white/red wire under the tank coming from the left switch that is not connected anywhere. I can't find that color on the wiring diagram, it's under the lower button on the switch. If memory serves, that is the engine kill switch, I don't see a matching wire running fore or aft to connect it to.
The engine kill switch is - in the handlebar switch cluster - White in, White/Yellow out. That you "don't see a matching wire to connect [White/Yellow] to" is because, as standard, it connects to the -ve terminal of each coil (assuming +ve earth/ground). Otoh, if the bike has electronic ignition, White/Yellow from the handlebar kill switch is then the input to the e.i. box and not the coils directly.
White/Red connects to an electric start relay. It wasn't used until the T160 (which uses different handlebar clusters) but was included in the '71-on clusters for the Bandit and Fury, some variants of which would've had electric starters. Fwiw, 'cos it's supplied by the White wire into the relevant handlebar cluster, rather than have it as a potential short-circuit generator some time down the line, I connect it into the Blue/White (headlamp main beam) connector in the headlamp shell as an extra headlamp flash button.
Originally Posted By: desertrat
I'll figure a way to get something connected through there.
As I said before, I've never had a problem with indicators grounding just through the thin layer of chrome over the plastic body so I just attach any ground wire to the 'bike end' of the stem. As others have said, an indicator bulb draws less than 2 Amps and it's intermittent. Just connecting an Ohm- or multi-meter between the grounded side of the bulb holder and the 'bike end' of the stem will tell you if you have a good ground path.
I should have mentioned since it's been referenced a few times, this engine still has points ignition. Given the low mileage it will likely see, I'll probably leave it that way. I am a fan of the Tri-Spark though. It made a major difference on my Norton when swapped for an old Boyer.
Since my kill switch works, obviously it was the other button on the switch, the white-white/yellow combination and that is fine. I just mis-rememberd which button it was.
I'm happy to hear the white/red isn't supposed to have a mate on my bike. I like your idea for the added headlight flasher, more gentlemanly than an additional horn I think.
Funny about the turn signal grounding. The rears ground fine through the housings/stalks, but I plan to ground them seperately as well. The right front will ground through the housing/stalk to the headlamp bucket when checked with a VOM.
The left front will not! Must be some terrific insulation available on that side. Looks like my ground wire for that will have to connect to the harness ground. Looks like I have some skinny wire fishing to do at the front.
When it's complete and flashing, maybe I'll post a video so everybody can join in the celebration.