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Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Lannis] #320453
06/27/10 3:04 pm
06/27/10 3:04 pm
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 89
England
Dawg Offline
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Dawg  Offline
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Posts: 89
England
They are a swine to get in. I managed to do it by hand, but it was still a bit of a struggle. Nice method Bry.


1958 Velocette Venom
1960 Norton Dominator 99
1964 Velocette Venom Clubman Mk1
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Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #320507
06/27/10 10:01 pm
06/27/10 10:01 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

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Bry  Offline OP

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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
The last part of the front fork assembly was to fit the steering damper. I was able to reuse all of the original parts as they had been well preserved under a coating of grease and grime and only needed a good clean, shot blast and paint - and a bit of polishing and replating as necessary. The original adjusting knob and star spring assembly was missing from the bike so I purchased reproduction items. Assembly was just a bolt together job with a bit of adjustment required on the fixing stud to get the right height of the tab on the friction plate that fixes to the frame.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #325959
08/01/10 10:17 pm
08/01/10 10:17 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

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Bry  Offline OP

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Scotland
...moving on to the wheels!, starting with the rear.

The original rims are too far gone for re-chroming, so I decided to use new stainless steel rims and spokes, as the plan is to ride this bike quite a bit when finished.

After cutting out the rear hub and removing the sprocket/brake drum (which will need replaced), I separated the pressed on flange, removed the bearings and bead blasted the alloy parts.

After pressing in new sealed bearings I rebuilt the wheel and fitted an Avon Roadrider tyre. Fitting bike tyres is not my favorite job, but this time it was no problem due to a product called �P80�, it is a rubber lubricant that I have been using when installing oil seals and hoses (based on a recommendation from John Healy, on the Triumph forum). I decided to use this as a bead lubricant by applying to a rag and wiping on, tyre went on easily and the bead seated on the rim straight away when inflated. I wish I knew about P80 years ago when I think of some of the wrestling matches I have had fitting tyres in the past.

The speedometer drive housing was found to be damaged when stripped, it looked as if the large gear wheel had picked up material from the housing which had forced the gear to thrust out of the housing, deforming it and tearing out the four small 8BA screws that hold the gear retaining ring and cracking the housing at each of the threaded holes for these screws. I therefore pressed the end of the housing flat again, welded up the holes and cracks, machined the area flat and tapped four new screw holes orientated 45deg from the originals.

I decided to reuse the original wheel axle as it was in good condition apart from some surface corrosion at the hex end. I skimmed the end an cylindrical parts of this in the lathe to remove the rust down to clean metal and dressed the hex flats with a file then zinc plated it.

The wheel was then reassembled with a new sprocket/brake drum.

Next jobs will be the rear brake and the front wheel.

[Linked Image]

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Last edited by Bry; 05/05/18 5:15 pm.

1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #325970
08/02/10 12:11 am
08/02/10 12:11 am
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 12,934
Central Virginia
Lannis Offline

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Lannis  Offline

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Posts: 12,934
Central Virginia
Keep on gittin' it, and telling us about it.

I'm hanging on every picture and word!

Lannis


I stopped believing for a little while this morning. Journey is really going to be upset.
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Lannis] #326057
08/02/10 1:26 pm
08/02/10 1:26 pm
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,058
Laredo (South) Texas, USA
GrandPaul Offline
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GrandPaul  Offline
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Laredo (South) Texas, USA
VERY interesting and in-depth detail work. I wish I had the space for (at least) a nice lathe, and a master to teach me the finer points on it.


GrandPaul (does not use emoticons)
Author of the book "Old Bikes"
Too many bikes to list, mostly Triumph & Norton, some BSA & European
"The Iron in your blood should be Vintage"
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: GrandPaul] #326104
08/02/10 6:18 pm
08/02/10 6:18 pm
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,206
Netherlands
Peter R Offline

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Peter R  Offline

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Posts: 2,206
Netherlands
I like your high standard of workmanship, always been a Velocette fan myself, this is a real engineers bike.
As Grandpaul states, a lathe in the workshop is a very usefull thing, since I bought a lathe, -albeit a small one- I can not imagine how I could ever live without one.


Peter.
1974 Commando 850
1972 Trident T150T
1961 Goldie DBD34
1969 Benelli 250 sport special
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #337693
10/11/10 11:04 pm
10/11/10 11:04 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

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Bry  Offline OP

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Posts: 301
Scotland
I got started back on the Venom project at the weekend following the completion of another small project in the shed.

I got the front and rear brakes assembled and installed, this was pretty straight forward involving a strip down of the brake plates degreasing, bead blasting and polishing the alloy. Then reassembling with new bushes, shoes, springs and fasteners.

One small issue when I assembled the rear brake was that the edge of the brake shoes were just fouling on the heads of the pressed in place QD hub bolts. A strip down and carefully measurement of the components identified that the new the new brake drum and sprocket assembly was almost 0.025� thicker at the face where the QD bolts penetrate the rear of the drum when compared to the old original part. So I machined the face back to the correct thickness then reassembled, this time everything fitted with sufficient clearance. I fitted the brake control arms temporarily but will later remove and send these off to get professionally stripped and replated with my next batch of chrome plated items.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #338408
10/15/10 10:47 pm
10/15/10 10:47 pm
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 89
England
Dawg Offline
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England
Looking really good Bry - are we going to see it ready for next summer?


1958 Velocette Venom
1960 Norton Dominator 99
1964 Velocette Venom Clubman Mk1
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Dawg] #338579
10/17/10 11:07 am
10/17/10 11:07 am
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

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Bry  Offline OP

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Posts: 301
Scotland
Originally Posted By: Dawg
Looking really good Bry - are we going to see it ready for next summer?


Thanks, hopefully it should be ready, or close to ready, for next summer.


1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #338982
10/19/10 4:13 pm
10/19/10 4:13 pm
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 205
London, England
Triumph5ta Offline
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Triumph5ta  Offline
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Posts: 205
London, England
Superb job. I want your shed. And your talent!

Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #339371
10/22/10 5:00 am
10/22/10 5:00 am
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 144
San Diego Ca.
S
scottgarland Offline
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scottgarland  Offline
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S
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 144
San Diego Ca.
You are a craftsman on a plain few of us can reach. Nice to see work done by someone who loves what they do, keep it comming!

Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #346624
12/05/10 3:18 pm
12/05/10 3:18 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

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Bry  Offline OP

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Scotland
... I made a start on the cylinder head and rocker box.

The rocker box and rocker assemblies were in pretty good contrition, so I bead blasted the alloy parts then cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner, lapped the gasket faces and polished the tappet cover.

The inlet rocker journal had some light scoring on the surface and you could just feel a little resistance when turning when assembled. So I held the rocker assembly between centres in the lathe and while spinning at low speed run a strip of wet and dry lubricated with WD40 to give it a light polish. There was also some evidence of pick-up on the alloy housing at the area of the scoring, which I refaced with a hand reamer. After reassembly the rocker moved cleanly with no discernible radial play.

The cylinder head was also cleaned by bead blasting and ultrasonic. The valve guides were slightly worn but within serviceable limits, the valve springs looked OK but I decided to replace these with new items from Velocette owners club spares. The valves and guides were in good condition except the exhaust valve and guide had some small Concentric grooves and ridges on the faces, possible as a result of previous improper lapping (using a pistol drill!), who knows. I tried to lap these out by hand, then decided to reface the valves using a die grinder set up in the lathe. This worked quite well but took a lot of setting up by securing the grinder in the cross slide set at 45deg. I secured a diamond tip grinding wheel dressing tool to the lathe bed set a centre height and with the die grinder running run the grinding wheel across the dressing tool to ensure that it was running true. I then held the valve in a collet chuck and run the lathe at a lowish speed in reverse and dressed the face with the grinder, removing the Concentric groves. I then tried to lap the rings out of the valve seat with the newly refaced valve. This worked with a reasonable degree of success but the grooves were starting to appear in the valve face again. What was of course really required was for the seat to be recut, but as it is aluminium bronze would need a tungsten carbide cutter which I did not have. These are expensive and I am a bit skeptical about cutting valve seats using hand cutters, in my opinion a professional SERDI job is better, obviously much more accurate and also much cheaper if you do not already have a TC cutter. So I sent the head off to SRM in Wales to get this done, they will replace the seat with one of their lead free ones, fit inserts into the guides and supply new valves.

I also got the rear suspension fitted, using new shocks and adjusting arc covers. I went for stainless arc covers (originals were aluminium) they looked good but need a bit of work with the panel beating hammer to get them to fit right then of course repolishing.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

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1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #347262
12/09/10 1:59 pm
12/09/10 1:59 pm
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,058
Laredo (South) Texas, USA
GrandPaul Offline
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GrandPaul  Offline
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Posts: 7,058
Laredo (South) Texas, USA
Wow.

That's it, just "wow".


GrandPaul (does not use emoticons)
Author of the book "Old Bikes"
Too many bikes to list, mostly Triumph & Norton, some BSA & European
"The Iron in your blood should be Vintage"
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #348596
12/17/10 7:17 pm
12/17/10 7:17 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

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Bry  Offline OP

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Posts: 301
Scotland
While waiting for my cylinder head to be returned from SRM, (they have completed the work and despatched it, but it is caught up in the backlog of courier delivery delays due to the heavy snow falls that we have had recently) I got the clutch, primary and secondary drives assembled.

The clutch was in fair condition but needed the chain wheel replaced, I went for a bonded plate type and also replaced the friction plates with bonded items as opposed to using inserts as per the original. I replaced the original clutch thrust ball bearing with a roller type and also the thrust actuating ring as is was showing signs of wear. The original back and front plates were reused after cleaning and checking that they run true.

The clutch assembly was straight forward although it took a few attempts to get the sleeve gear nut started on its thread while holding the springs in compression. Tightening the nut also required a bit of care (and a bit of grease) to avoid distorting the springs.

I went for a new bolt up type primary chain case assembly which came powder coated. It fitted well but I can�t really see how this will be oil tight (apparently they never are) despite the cork gaskets being a good fit as there is only a loose fitting felt seal at the drive shaft aperture and no seal whatsoever, only a gap, where the end of the crank penetrates for the dyno� drive pulley.

New engine and gearbox sprockets were fitted and new primary and final drive chains. I also fitted a new engine shock absorber spring.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #348600
12/17/10 7:41 pm
12/17/10 7:41 pm
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 12,934
Central Virginia
Lannis Offline

Life member
Lannis  Offline

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Posts: 12,934
Central Virginia
Great work.

You named a bunch of new parts that you got for the bike (sprockets, chainwheels, thrust washers).

Where do you find these things for this bike? Is the quality up to the originals, or alternatively, up to "regular riding" if you so choose?

Lannis


I stopped believing for a little while this morning. Journey is really going to be upset.
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Lannis] #348608
12/17/10 8:30 pm
12/17/10 8:30 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

Life Member
Bry  Offline OP

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Posts: 301
Scotland
Originally Posted By: Lannis
Great work.

You named a bunch of new parts that you got for the bike (sprockets, chainwheels, thrust washers).

Where do you find these things for this bike? Is the quality up to the originals, or alternatively, up to "regular riding" if you so choose?

Lannis


Hi Lannis,

I mainly get parts from the Velocette Owners Club members spares scheme, the quality and service is very good and they also have some upgraded parts available to improve performance and reliability, e.g. the thrust roller bearing that I used in the clutch rebuild instead of the standard ball bearing.

I also use Groves Classics quite bit, they have a considerable amount of stock and a well presented catalogue on their website.

However, I do like to use as much original parts as possible, for originality but also the Velo stuff was so well made, in IMO it is well worth the effort to preserve and refurbish parts where possible even if sometimes this works out more expensive and certainly more time consuming than replacing with new repro' parts.

Bry


1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #348678
12/18/10 4:36 am
12/18/10 4:36 am
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 168
Tucson, AZ
darbone85737 Offline
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darbone85737  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 168
Tucson, AZ
That is one magnificent job. Thanks for sharing


Tucson, AZ
1955 BSA Gold Star clubman
1958 BSA A10 Super Rocket
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #348954
12/19/10 10:47 pm
12/19/10 10:47 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

Life Member
Bry  Offline OP

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Posts: 301
Scotland
...the original chain guard was pretty damaged but salvageable.

I started by degreasing then chemically striping the paint off.

The guard was split and cracked in three directions around the rear fixing bracket. I drilled some small holes at the end of each crack and repaired the splits and filled the holes by brazing.

The front bracket was broken off at both sides at the ends. I removed the remaining part of the bracket by drilling out the spot welds holding it to the guard and made up a new one by cutting a strip of mild steel flat bar and bending to shape. I then silver soldered this to the guard following a couple of trial fits to get the position of the bolt holes correct.

There were a few dents which I knocked out with a hammer and dolly. I have fitted the guard to the bike and will remove later and send off with my next batch of items for powder coating.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

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1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #349687
12/24/10 12:22 am
12/24/10 12:22 am
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

Life Member
Bry  Offline OP

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Posts: 301
Scotland
I received the cylinder head back from SRM with new valve seats and valve guide inserts fitted. I installed the valve springs and shimmed them to get the correct pretension.

I then fitted the head to the cylinder and measured the compression ration. I did this by leaning the bike over so that the spark plug hole was in the vertical position and setting the engine at TDC. Then using a 100ml graduated syringe I filled the combustion chamber with ATF through the spark plug hole until the fluid level reached the bottom of the plug hole. The compression ratio is adjustable by altering the size and/or quantity of shim plates located at the base of the cylinder. I had fitted 2 x 0.031� plates and the combustion chambered measured 74ml, with a 0.040� oversize piston this works out at a CR of just under 8:1, this was exactly what I wanted so no further adjustment was necessary.

I then removed the head to clean out the ATF then refitted it using o-rings around the studs in the hole chamfer modification that had been carried out previously and torqued down. I decided to use the original copper cylinder head gasket after annealing as it was a much better fit than the new replacement gasket that I purchased.

I fitted the rocker box temporarily as this will need to come off again to fit the push rods when I get the push rod tube back from the chrome platers.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #349706
12/24/10 2:09 am
12/24/10 2:09 am
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 176
MN
S
Shades34 Offline
BritBike Forum member
Shades34  Offline
BritBike Forum member
S
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 176
MN
as many have stated, your work is amazing. I have read the comp. ratio equation in Stan Shenton's "Triumph Tuning" but seeing you use it is great.

Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #350698
12/31/10 9:22 pm
12/31/10 9:22 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

Life Member
Bry  Offline OP

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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
...the original oil tank was serviceable but required a bit of work before fitting.

I started by cleaning out the internal sludge and oil using paraffin and and a handful of drywall screws and giving it a good shake, I repeated this a few times until the sludge was removed. I then stripped the original paint back to bare metal.

The tank was in pretty good shape apart from the broken fixing brackets and a crack in the bottom where a previous repair had been made to the lower bracket. At first it just looked like a bit of under cut at the edge of the weld but further investigation showed that it was indeed a crack on the tank wall at the edge of the heat affected zone of the weld. I would also need to fit an additional nozzle connection in the tank to accommodate the engine breather from the crankcase modification that I made.

From what I have read, the early oil tank fixing brackets were prone the breaking as had obviously happened on this one at least once. I therefore decided to modify the bracket arrangement a bit to hopefully provide a mode robust fixing arrangement rather than just replacing the broken brackets as per the original design. As I could see it, the problem seemed to be that the brackets were fixed separately to edge of the tank. So I made a one piece sub frame from flat bar that would fix to the tank mounting points on the frame. I then fixed the tank to the sub frame using a combination of silver soldering at the overlapped areas and bronze welding at the edges to form reinforcing fillets. From the front of the tank the parts of the subframe that can be seen were shaped to match the original lug type brackets so that it appears to be of the original design. I also repaired the crack in the bottom of tank by brazing.

I made the new vent connection by turning and boring a piece of steel bar, drilled the back of the tank and silver soldered in place.

The fixing bolts were turned up from hex stainless steel bar and the oil tanks was temporarily fixed to the frame until ready for painting.

I will order a new ball check valve and paper type filter unit from Velocette OC spares.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]




1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #350749
01/01/11 2:18 am
01/01/11 2:18 am
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 462
West Chester, pennsylvania. US...
Matt smith Offline
BritBike Forum member
Matt smith  Offline
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 462
West Chester, pennsylvania. US...
You have raised the bar on reconditioning vintage motorcycles my friend. I need to go back and rethink some of my bodged rehabs....


meandthismotorcycle.blogspot.com
smokeandthrottle.blogspot.com
Triumphs and BSA's, a few... I'm a hoarder.


I dont mind the Ten Commandments, I believe in the Ten Commandments. The first one, I am the Lord thy God, is a great commandmentif its not said by the wrong people.

Bob Dylan, introducing the song Masters of War at New York City Town Hall, 12 April 1963.
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #351531
01/05/11 5:42 pm
01/05/11 5:42 pm
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 89
England
Dawg Offline
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Dawg  Offline
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Posts: 89
England
Good move on the oil tank Bry - i've done a similar procedure on both Velos.

Just out of interest - did you at first fix the tank at the bottom to see how it 'wanted' to fit. I found that on both my Venoms, I had to make a spacer for the top bolt. On the first one I did, the tank was basically being forced inwards at the top by about 1/4" and cracking on the bottom lug. Since the repair and subsequent modification it hasn't done it since! The '64 - I just did it even though the tank was sound; yet there was still a sizeable gap between the frame and oil tank top bracket when the bottom two bolts were tightened up.

Not Veloce's greatest moment....


1958 Velocette Venom
1960 Norton Dominator 99
1964 Velocette Venom Clubman Mk1
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Dawg] #351707
01/06/11 6:16 pm
01/06/11 6:16 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

Life Member
Bry  Offline OP

Life Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Originally Posted By: Dawg
Good move on the oil tank Bry - i've done a similar procedure on both Velos.

Just out of interest - did you at first fix the tank at the bottom to see how it 'wanted' to fit. I found that on both my Venoms, I had to make a spacer for the top bolt. On the first one I did, the tank was basically being forced inwards at the top by about 1/4" and cracking on the bottom lug. Since the repair and subsequent modification it hasn't done it since! The '64 - I just did it even though the tank was sound; yet there was still a sizeable gap between the frame and oil tank top bracket when the bottom two bolts were tightened up.

Not Veloce's greatest moment....



Hi Dawg, it did take a bit of tweaking to get both brackets sitting right. I made the adjustments by bending the offsets at the ends of the flat bar bracket sub frame. The difference in plane between the top and bottom fixing point wasn't as much as 1/4" though, so I didn't need a spacer. Bry


1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: '59 Velocette Venom [Re: Bry] #352908
01/14/11 12:05 am
01/14/11 12:05 am
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
Bry Offline OP

Life Member
Bry  Offline OP

Life Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 301
Scotland
After reading the posts in Beljum�s excellent Thunderbird restoration thread, I decided to have a go at repairing and refurbishing the chronometric speedometer.

The speedo was in pretty poor condition with the needle stuck, the housing corroded, the bezel chewed up and something loose rattling around inside.

After an external clean I removed the bezel using a strap wrench and repeated applications of WD40 on the thread. Eventually it freed up and I was able to screw the bezel off. I then removed the glass and support ring, removed the fixing screws and dropped the internal mechanism out of the housing into my hand.

The chronometric unit seemed to be complete but was pretty gummed up with grease and dirt. The housing for the trip meter reset device had detached and was loose inside the housing (this is what was causing the rattle). I loosened the screws holding the dial face on and pried off the needle from behind the face, I then removed the face.

I removed both odometer drums and washed out the worse of the grease and dirt from the chronometric mechanism using WD40 spray. This was then emersed in a jug of white spirit and left overnight, agitated a bit and then cleaned using a small brush and more white spirit.

I then turned the mechanism by hand and could see that two of the pinions that drive the escapement wheel were not engaging one of them seemed to have been pushed up by the dirt and grease packed below it. Perhaps as a result of the speedometer cable being over greased at some time. I was able to reposition and engage the pinions, then after more turning by hand I could see that the mechanism was now turning but the rocking leaver was not moving the spindle that turns the ratchet pinion that operates the indicating needle. I managed to reset this by manually lifting the leaf springs that run on small cams while turning the mechanism so until it was synchronised with the ratchet wheel. One of the tension springs that operates the odometer latch arm was also over stretched and was not holding the arm in the correct position to engage with the odometer drum, I was able to remove this spring and reform it.

I cleaned up the odometer drums and dial face using hot soapy water as I did not want to chance anything stronger incase it removed the numbers and markings. After drying out I reassembled the drums, fitted a speedo cable attached to pistol drill and tested the unit. Everything was working OK, so I applied some light lubrication to the mechanism and reassembled the face and needle to the mechanism.

The outer housing was chemically stripped of the remaining paint and left to soak in a container of rust remover for a couple of days. The thread on the hosing for the bezel was badly damaged by what looked like a previous attempt to lever off the bezel with a screwdriver. I therefore set up the housing in the lathe and set the screw cutting gears to 28tpi then by just turning the chuck by hand with the back drive gears engaged was able to dress the damaged thread using a threat cutting tool in the tool post.

I then primed and painted the housing using white paint internally (to reflect the light from the speedo illumination bulb) and black baked on enamel externally.

The unit was reassembled using a new bezel and seal (the original glass was OK and reused after a good clean) and a new bulb holder screwed in place.

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1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
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Moderated by  Richrd 


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