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Need to find a T140 wiring harness #340165
10/27/10 7:56 pm
10/27/10 7:56 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 127
New England
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Snap50 Offline OP
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Where might I buy a wiring harness for a '76 T140?
Anyone known to carry reproductions or NOS?

Posted in the General Brit section too; didn't know where was best so sorry for the redundancy.

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Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340213
10/28/10 12:50 am
10/28/10 12:50 am
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 138
Jonesborough, TN
Kenneth Million Offline
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Jonesborough, TN
Northern Eagle Cycle in Canada sells wiring harnesses for OIF Triumphs. I don't know anything about the quality or where they're made. Give Dennis a call and he can answer your questions. I think the web site is www.northerneagle.ca you can get his number there. Good luck.


Kenneth Million
1977 T140v
1971 TR6R
1971 T350 Suzuki
1968 CA160 Honda
AHRMA # 653
Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340261
10/28/10 12:40 pm
10/28/10 12:40 pm
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Posts: 208
Ontario , Canada
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peter berry Offline
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Im looking for a 76 harness also , Walridge can get them and I have seen them on eBay . In 76 they had those little plastic plug in connectors inside the head light shell to connect the switches etc with the , main harness . The repro harness I have seen had the bullet and spade connections instead of these so that would require altering the auxillary harness with spade and bullet connectors . Doubtful that knock offs will be colour coded the same way so will have to be careful matching up connectors . Would be interested in hearing if you are able to find repo with correct connectors . Keep us posted .

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340264
10/28/10 1:28 pm
10/28/10 1:28 pm
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Boston, Massachusetts
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John Healy Offline

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There is a very good reason the reproduction harness does not come with the original white connectors. These particular connectors do not work in this application and have been the constant source of problems. As Triumph dealers we were constantly dealing with problems with these, especially the one that connects the engine kill switch, and replacing the lot with bullet connectors. For some reason the the pins, which are very small, would corrode causing all sorts of electrical problems.

I think the ones made by Auto Sparks use the proper wire coding.

If you are looking for an original Lucas you might try Mitch Klempf as he has a large inventory of n.o.s. Lucas. That said, don't be surprised when you have to cut off the white pin connectors and replace them with bullets.


Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: peter berry] #340274
10/28/10 2:20 pm
10/28/10 2:20 pm
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Scotland
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Stuart Offline
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Hi,

Originally Posted By: peter berry
In 76 they had those little plastic plug in connectors inside the head light shell to connect the switches etc with the , main harness

AMP connectors, Sparx still sell 'em if you want 'em! crazy <Shudder>

Originally Posted By: peter berry
Doubtful that knock offs will be colour coded the same way

Why not? confused Correctly-colour-coded cable is easily available. Any pattern harness maker that can't at least do that deserves to fail.

On the BMIG Board, I advised the o.p. that he should build his own, but he isn't up for it, despite the advantages. Ime, the main problem with pattern harnesses is they don't fit - wires too short or too long - and you spend at least as much time making 'em fit as you would making exactly what you want from scratch! mad The other problem I also find, certainly on pattern '71-on harnesses, are they copy the original inadequate spec. for cables (e.g. Brown/Blue) that carry the power for everything. crazy

Hth.

Regards,

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: John Healy] #340275
10/28/10 2:25 pm
10/28/10 2:25 pm
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 208
Ontario , Canada
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peter berry Offline
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This is great to know , since restoring this bike 2 years ago with what I thought was a pretty clean original harness I have been plagued by electrical gremlins . I finally just locked it in the shed after pushing it 2 miles home a couple of weeks ago and decided to start back at square one with the electrical system . It will sporatically blow fuses or cut out , refuse to start despite what I thought was thorough inspection of those connectors . I maybe further a head just to replace the connectors on my existing harness . Thanks for the heads up may have just releived the source of a lot of headaches Peter

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340280
10/28/10 2:48 pm
10/28/10 2:48 pm
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Hi Stuart,

While we are the subject of building a wiring harness, what is the story on differet types of Lucas bullet connectors? Some have ribs. The original ones on my 71 T120 do not have ribs. The rib ones do not fit through the headlight connectors. The original ones do. Pain in the PItou.

And where does one buy the correct ones at a decent price? Also the correct color coded wire? What guage do you think correct for the brown/blue? Also with the increased watt headlight bulbs, what for the headlight, and should that not be done using a relay?


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340301
10/28/10 5:07 pm
10/28/10 5:07 pm
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 291
Lehigh Valley, PA
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Mike V Offline
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Check it out:

http://www.britishwiring.com/

I have purchased wire, bullets, bullet connectors and the crimping tool from these folks. Works great for me.

Mike V.

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: peter berry] #340311
10/28/10 6:12 pm
10/28/10 6:12 pm
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Peter,

Originally Posted By: peter berry
original harness
I maybe further a head just to replace the connectors on my existing harness

If you plan to replace with individual bullet terminals similar to the ones already on the harness elsewhere, bear in mind:-

1. Modern terminals are dimensioned to work specifically with modern, metric cable. The modern equivalent of what's in an original harness is known as '14/0.3' - 14 strands, each 0.3mm o.d.

Don't be confused by British Wiring also quoting 'US gauge' sizes - all the cable BW sells is metric, none is AWG-sized.

2. Otoh, the original mid- to late-1970's cable is Imperial-dimensioned, also 14 strands but each 32SWG - 0.274mm o.d.

3. That slight difference adds up over 14 strands, metric bullets will apparently crimp on Imperial cable, but will pull off each time you try and pull a bullet out of a connector sleeve. Amhik. frown

4. Sometimes you can get bullets intended for 9/0.3 cable to fit 14-strand Imperial cable; if you can, once crimped they never come off.

5. If you buy from Vehicle Wiring Products in GB, they can supply a 3/16" (4.7mm) o.d. bullet that crimps like a tab terminal - http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsbullets.php and scroll down to "4.7mm bullets & snap connectors", "Bullet. 'W' crimp type".

Hth.

Regards,

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340313
10/28/10 6:22 pm
10/28/10 6:22 pm
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Oh my, Stuart.

My eyes glaze over with the possiblities.

What about the solder type bullets?

What is 32SWG?


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: btour] #340324
10/28/10 7:43 pm
10/28/10 7:43 pm
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,181
Scotland
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Bob,

Originally Posted By: btour
differet types of Lucas bullet connectors? Some have ribs.

confused Never come across 'ribs'. confused Hazarding a guess:-

1. Behind the pointed end of a bullet, it 'necks down' for a short distance, then expands back to the same size as the o.d. of the pointed end, before 'necking down' again and being hex-crimped on the cable insulation.

2. In the area between the two where the terminal is 'necked down', sometimes that area is broken up with one or more reduced-o.d. areas, leaving the full-o.d. areas standing out like 'ribs'?

If so, the 'full-o.d.' areas shouldn't exceed 3/16" (4.7mm) o.d.; however, I suspect an increase to 5mm o.d. by some Chinese machine setter won't be noticed 'til you tried to poke one "through the headlight connectors". frown

Originally Posted By: btour
where does one buy the correct ones at a decent price? Also the correct color coded wire?

As Mike says, British Wiring is your nearest. The two suppliers I use in GB are Autosparks and Vehicle Wiring Products but how they compare once p&p to the US is added, I don't know.

Originally Posted By: btour
What guage do you think correct for the brown/blue?

Imho, 28/0.3 (14 gauge). 'Normal' PVC-insulated is rated for 17.5A but I prefer 'thin wall' - rated for 25A but more, because its insulation is thinner, it's a similar o.d. to the 14-strand cables.

Just as a fi, I do earths/grounds differently. If you look at, for example, the British Wiring catalogue under 'Bullets & Snap Connectors' and 'Snap Connector Sleeves', they list '324 Four-way (joins up to 8 wires)'. I put one of these in the headlight area and another in the under-seat area, join individual component earth/ground cables to those, then run one 44/0.3 'thinwall' cable from each to one of the head/rockerbox bolts on top of the engine. On an electric-start bike, the only earth/ground connection to the battery is a thick cable from an engine/frame connecting bolt; on a non-e/s bike, the battery connection is a 44/0.3 cable into the underseat 8-way snap connector.

Originally Posted By: btour
with the increased watt headlight bulbs, what for the headlight, and should that not be done using a relay?

I fit a separate supply to headlights, switched by separate 4-pin on/off relays for main and dip.

On '71-on bikes, that only have Brown/Blue connecting battery, rectifier, Zener and ignition, I run the separate headlight supply all the way from the battery. On pre-'71 bikes, that had Brown/Blue and Brown/White, and these cables were originally 28-strand, I take the headlight supply from the unswitched side of the ignition switch, so the power the headlight's using also registers on any ammeter or voltmeter.

I use two 4-pin on/off relays rather than a single 5-pin for a number of reasons:-

A. While I connect one relay to the dip output from the handlebar switch and the other to the main output, it's easy to experiment, say, connecting the 'dip' relay to the lights on/off switch; then, like many modern cars, dip will stay on when main is on too (you'll need a 14.5A/'180 Watt' alternator though wink ).

B. With two separate relays, headlamp 'flash' works when dip is on.

C. With two separate relays, if one goes twang, it's a simple matter to, say, reconnect the dipswitch directly to the headlight dip filament and, 'til you can get a new relay, use the remaining relay for main.

D. With one 5-pin relay, you have to organise a separate on/off switch for the headlight supply, because a 5-pin relay still connects the input to one output even when the relay itself is 'off'. Otoh, with two 4-pin simple on/off relays, when their control power is cut, they both switch off.

As for the cable for the headlight supply: modern 14/0.3 is rated for 8.75 Amps - at a nominal 12 Volts, that's 105 Watts. As long as you plan to run main or dip, 14/0.3 is probably ok even between the battery and the relays; however, again, I prefer to opt for 28/0.3.

Originally Posted By: btour
What about the solder type bullets?

I can't solder to save my life, and life's too short to do all the bad soldering I'd have to do to acquire the skill of good soldering. Otoh, crimping is just money for the tool. wink

Originally Posted By: btour
What is 32SWG?

No.32 Standard Wire Gauge (you can Google it, and Triumph put it in the back section of some of their workshop manuals). Of course, completely different to Brown & Sharpe's American Wire Gauge (AWG or just 'gauge' to you). laugh

Hth.

Regards,

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Stuart] #340359
10/28/10 11:31 pm
10/28/10 11:31 pm
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Ontario , Canada
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peter berry Offline
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Ontario , Canada
Stuart Great info ,a full tutorial written up on building a self made wiring harness would sure be great.ThanksPeter

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: peter berry] #340402
10/29/10 9:47 am
10/29/10 9:47 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Peter,

Originally Posted By: peter berry
a full tutorial written up on building a self made wiring harness would sure be great.

Not really much to tell. As long as you can work logically, it really isn't rocket science - the first bike I rewired was a T160, armed with nothing more than what I'd learned about electrics in Physics as an 11- and 12-year-old, and when the www was still a twinkle in some defence industry techie's eye.

I simply cut the tape off that T160's harness, spread it out and there was the wiring diagram in glorious technicolour. Then I just worked through it, starting at the equivalent of battery -ve - because I build on the bike, I substituted a wooden block so I didn't have live wires flapping about while I was building.

Either I used a cable from the harness - the original 14/32SWG was rated for 7.5 Amps so more than adequate for most individual components' supply and earth/ground, just bear in mind about using bullet terminals intended for 14/0.3 on original 14/32SWG. Where connection to a multi-way connector isn't required, I changed bullets for 'Lucar'-type tab terminals (the ones that have tabs that pierce the cable insulation, not the Red/Blue/Yellow-insulated squash-on, fall-off ones sick ).

Or, if I substituted a new cable for one in the harness (e.g. the previously-mentioned thicker Brown/Blue), I took the old cable out of the harness and threw it in a corner, so I didn't get confused. Then, when I'd finished, in theory I shouldn't have been left with any of the original harness where I'd spread it out; however, Lucas (and a lot of the pattern harness makers I've come across since) include a lot of extra cable. crazy Nevertheless, if you've been logical, it should be easy to check that's what's left over is just excess and you haven't missed anything.

Joining up earths/grounds was/is last and, at least logically, you should end up back at battery +ve.

I didn't tape up the new harness; during building, I attached cables to frame tubes with releasable cable ties and I just left it that way because I thought I'd have made loads of mistakes. Subsequently, I've found it much easier to make small changes - replace a damaged cable and add or remove cables to take account of changes. Otoh, with a taped-up harness, you'd be running substitute or new cables outside the harness, 'til you eventually got fed up with the mess and stripped it all down again. frown I did that first rewire in 1982, I still have the bike and I've never had to do another major rebuild of the harness.

Where cables aren't concealed by bodywork (e.g. around the steering head), I cover them with short lengths of Split Convoluted Conduit - the lengthways split means it can be fitted or pulled off without disturbing connected cables. Unfortunately, British Wiring don't appear to sell it; however, although I buy it from either Autosparks or VWP, it's universal so I'd be surprised if you couldn't turn up a source in Canada or the US.

On that first rewire, I used new fuse holders for standard tubular glass fuses. However, I've since switched to the more-widely-available blade fuses and holders, using holders that can be clipped together so they make the equivalent of a small fusebox (never found an existing fuse box that's small enough frown ). I also include some otherwise-unused fuse holders to carry spare fuses.

If you want to add cables and relays to supply the headlamp, it's easy to keep them separate from the standard harness. On a '71-on bike, I run a separate supply cable from the battery to the 'HT' input of the relays; this can be fused either close to the battery or you can use fused relays (albeit they're bulkier if space is tight). I break the standard bullet connections between the dipswitch outputs and the headlamp bulb inside the headlamp shell. Each dipswitch output is connected to the 'LT' input of a relay and the 'HT' output of each relay is connected to the corresponding headlamp filament. Finally, the remaining 'LT' terminal on each relay is connected to earth/ground and Bob's your mother's brother. This way, if it all goes horribly wrong, it's a simple matter to reconnect the dipswitch outputs directly to the headlamp filaments, remove the fuse(s) from the relays (supply) and the whole lot's isolated.

Hth.

Regards,

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340423
10/29/10 2:03 pm
10/29/10 2:03 pm
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Massachusetts, U.S.A.
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Hi Stuart,

Thank you for all that. I will have to spend a bit of time to study it, till it all sinks in. I have never worked with a relay.

I do not have the crimping tool for the Lucas bullets. They crip on only to the insulation is that correct? If the insulation under the crimp cracks then they fall off? I do not really trust my soldering skills either, but think I would prefer that to the crimp, as I understand it now.

One thing that I would really like to accomplish is to put in the high power pilot bulb. But I need a way to do that and still use the key switch, so that the pilot goes off when the lights go on. That in order to avoid over taxing the alternator output. See the wrinkle in my system is the higher output alternator will charge up to 16 volts, with the current Zener setup, and so I must run with lights on the avoid cooking the battery. That is why I would like the above setup. And also the pilot can be used as an emergency backup for head light failure.

As you may remember I had a horrible time with blowing headlight bulbs. I am almost certain that the cause was a failing rectifier. It is funny though that the pilot bulb never once blew from the same cause. The rectifier problem is now fixed, and my filaments live a normal lifespan again. But once bitten twice shy, with that problem.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340428
10/29/10 2:49 pm
10/29/10 2:49 pm
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Posts: 182
Lake Norman, NC
fredguaz Offline
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Snap,
I purchased a wiring loom from Klemph's British parts for my 77 T140V. It was very pricey I thought(250.) but since installing it, I have been very pleased. It is high quality, with solid connectors, length and the original vinyl covering (not cloth.) The loom had a plastic connector for the RH switch and bullets for the LH switch. (The LH switch itself had 2 plastic pin connectors.) I purchased extra bullet (solder) connectors and modified (eliminated)the 2 pin connectors on my LH switch without cutting the new loom. (Heat shrink all connections.) The RH switch (red kill toggle) plugged right into the new loom's plastic pin connector.
Works a charm!


fredguaz
1977 Bonneville T140V
2005 BMW R1200GS
2007 Ducati Multistrada 1100s
1971 Honda CT-70 Ko
1972 Honda CT-70 K1
1977 Fiat 124 Spider (Current project)
1990 GMC S-15 Jimmy (Daily rider) (Sold)


"Resistance is futile. You will be assimilated!"
Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340435
10/29/10 3:28 pm
10/29/10 3:28 pm
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Sorry to be a nuisance, Fred. But now I am confused. Did not John Healy say:

"As Triumph dealers we were constantly dealing with problems with these, especially the one that connects the engine kill switch, and replacing the lot with bullet connectors. For some reason the the pins, which are very small, would corrode causing all sorts of electrical problems."

But you are saying:

"The RH switch (red kill toggle) plugged right into the new loom's plastic pin connector.
Works a charm!"

Are these the same pin connectors, you are both talking about?


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340449
10/29/10 4:42 pm
10/29/10 4:42 pm
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Boston, Massachusetts
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John Healy Offline

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Quote:
The RH switch (red kill toggle) plugged right into the new loom's plastic pin connector. Works a charm!


It's ironic that it was this dual white connector for the kill button wires that was most problematic. It, along with corrosion of the pick-up wire connections when they were made at the control box, and in the rear wheel water spray, with one of these white pin connectors, that left owners with no spark.

The little pins on the connector would corrode, cause a high resistance causing the connector to heat up. It wasn't uncommon to open the head light bucket to find a totally toasted black connector.

Damn those Lucas Rita ignitions... What, you say it wasn't the Rita ignition at fault?


Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: btour] #340480
10/29/10 6:22 pm
10/29/10 6:22 pm
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Bob,

Originally Posted By: btour
I have never worked with a relay.

Not an issue at all; a relay is just a remote on/off switch. If you wire them the way I wrote up, everything on the bike continues to work exactly as it did before, things turn on and off just as they did before, only thing is the full power for the headlamp isn't jumping the ignition switch, lights switch and dipswitch contacts.

I was deliberately vague about contacts on relays because their designations vary depending on which relays you choose - something like a Lucas 6RA (the standard horn relay) had differently-marked contacts to one shown in any of the electrical suppliers' catalogues. Once you've decided which relays you want to use, I'll be happy to tell you which contact needs to be connected to what.

Originally Posted By: btour
crimping tool for the lucas bullets. They crip on only to the insulation is that correct?

No, where any bullet 'necks down' just behind the pointed end, it crimps on the conductor (you strip about 5/16" of insulation). In fact, apart from bullets intended for 9/0.3 and 14/0.3 cable, none need to be crimped on the insulation.

Originally Posted By: btour
high power pilot bulb. But I need a way to do that and still use the key switch, so that the pilot goes off when the lights go on.

The standard Lucas 57SA toggle lights switches fitted up to '71 have that facility. Unfortunately, the current one offered as a replacement doesn't have that facility frown (it's a later switch). If you're looking at second-hand ones, you're looking for '35710' or '31788' moulded in very tiny numbers on the black plastic casing.

Otoh, if your bike has a higher output alternator (14.5 Amp single- or three-phase?), surely it puts out more than enough to run both QH pilot and headlamp? My bikes have and they can, even a 100W main.

Originally Posted By: btour
the wrinkle in my system is the higher output alternator will charge up to 16 volts, with the current Zener setup,

Which alternator do you have? If one of the 14.5 Amp ones (single-phase Lucas RM23, three-phase Lucas RM24 or Sparx knock-offs), you should have two Zeners. For a single-phase, you can connect one Zener to each of the AC cables, the Zeners don't have to be 'matched'. Otoh, Zeners on a three-phase need to be a 'matched pair' (for switching voltage and resistance) connected to the DC output of the rectifier and each one on the end of its own cable, which should be very similar in length.

Originally Posted By: btour
As you may remember I had a horrible time with blowing headlight bulbs.

I remember.

Originally Posted By: btour
Sorry to be a nuisance, Fred.

This is the trouble with running two threads on exactly the same subject. frown Over on the BMIG Board, I've said that I've had pretty much the same experience as John with those AMP pin connectors and, imho, Fred has simply been lucky. When faced with the choice of fitting new individual bullets or new AMP connectors to get a harness and handlebar switch cables to fit together, imho opting to fit new AMP connectors is simply sending Sodde and Murphy gold-embossed invitations.

Hth.

Regards,

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340852
11/01/10 3:42 am
11/01/10 3:42 am
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New England
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Snap50  Offline OP
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S

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 127
New England
Thanks for all the input.
There seems to be a number of US, Canadian and UK dealers all selling what they say are UK manufactured harnesses.
The prices are all over the board and if they are the same harnesses then some dealers are definitely taking advantage.

The cheapest prices are directly from the UK and actually the shipping is half of one quote from Canada, just a few US states away and over the boarder; go figure.

I'll post what I decide on.

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Stuart] #340854
11/01/10 4:06 am
11/01/10 4:06 am
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 127
New England
S
Snap50 Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Snap50  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
S

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 127
New England
Originally Posted By: Stuart
Hi,
Ime, the main problem with pattern harnesses is they don't fit - wires too short or too long - and you spend at least as much time making 'em fit as you would making exactly what you want from scratch! mad The other problem I also find, certainly on pattern '71-on harnesses, are they copy the original inadequate spec. for cables (e.g. Brown/Blue) that carry the power for everything. crazy
Hth.
Regards,


Britishwiring.com ( http://www.britishwiring.com/Mcycle.PDF ) has the specific appropriate part number listed and said that they use originals as templates.
We didn't talk about the white plastic plugs, but I'm not opposed to changing out for a few bullets if needed.

Burtonbikebits has the correct number and notes that color codes are correct, price is right, but I wonder if UK bike specs might have varied from US bikes.

But the decision on which dealer is still not final.

As far as a personal rewire, there's a Thunderbird 900 in need of brakes and wheel bearings, a scooter patiently waiting for it's big bore kit, reworked head and associated carb tuning, a Honda that needs tires , etc, etc. so as much fun as the puzzle of working out the wiring might be, if that scooter doesn't get done my wife might be looking for a new mechanic, so a personal rewire of the Bonne is not going to happen.

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: fredguaz] #340856
11/01/10 4:24 am
11/01/10 4:24 am
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 127
New England
S
Snap50 Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Snap50  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
S

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 127
New England
Originally Posted By: fredguaz
Snap,
I purchased a wiring loom from Klemph's British parts for my 77 T140V.


I have never managed to buy anything from him because when I find a price in his website listing, it is always much less than the "real" price when contact is made. That tends to alter my direction.

Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: Snap50] #340900
11/01/10 1:02 pm
11/01/10 1:02 pm
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,457
Back on the mainland!
JubeePrince Offline

Life member
JubeePrince  Offline

Life member

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,457
Back on the mainland!
Originally Posted By: Snap50

I have never managed to buy anything from him because when I find a price in his website listing, it is always much less than the "real" price when contact is made. That tends to alter my direction.


Hi Snap -

Are you sure you have an updated price list? Did you ask for one? I've dealt with Mitch numerous times, he's one of the good guys....

Steve


'77 T140J
"Vintage Bike". What's in your garage?

"The paying customer is always right."

Fitting round pegs into square holes since 1961...
Re: Need to find a T140 wiring harness [Re: JubeePrince] #341152
11/03/10 1:56 am
11/03/10 1:56 am
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 127
New England
S
Snap50 Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Snap50  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
S

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 127
New England
Originally Posted By: JubeePrince

Hi Snap -
Are you sure you have an updated price list? Did you ask for one? I've dealt with Mitch numerous times, he's one of the good guys....
Steve


Steve,
Good to hear.


Moderated by  John Healy 


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