Many will tell you to relace and center the wheels in place on the bike. This is the best way to insure proper spacing, clearance and alignment...
If you have the original wheel and they are correctly positioned you can use those as a guide. Place the wheel on the brake drum face on a flat surface and measure the offset either under the rim or the drum itself with drill bits or round stock. A drill index full of all sizes works for me...
Don in Nipomo
1956 Zundapp KS601EL 1960 Greeves Scottish/Hawkstone Velorex 560 1963 BSA Gold Star Spitfire 1964 Triumph T20SM 1965 BSA C15T 1966 BSA VE 1968 Bonham Tote Gote 1969 BSA VS 1970 BSA A65L (with a "Y") 1972 Husqvarna 450 WR 1986 Yamaha TT 225 1987 BMW K75C
Thanks for the reply, but,the wheel is is pieces and ready to lace. I measured two old ones and they have two differet measurements. There has to be a list somewhere with this information. The factory did not lace these on the bikes.
I had this problem when I did my rear wheel. For the rear, SRM gave me an offset of 7/16" between a straight edge laid over the outer edge of the splines on the drive side of the hub and the rim (ie 7/16" gap between the straight edge and rim). If you need a diagram, I'll scan what they sent to me and send it through. This was for a WM3 alloy flanged rim and I'm thinking it would be much the same for a steel rim.
Can't help with a a '67 hub but for the late 68-70 hub the rim is flush with the edge of the drum on the backing plate side. Looking at 2 wheels in my shed one on a '66 hornet and the other off anything (swap meet item), for the front the edge of the rim would lie pretty much in line with the first or second fin going outwards fron the spoke flange on the backing plate side. HTH.
BTW I spent a couple of years in Pittsburgh in the late 90's. So not far from you.
Last edited by BrizzoBrit; 01/22/109:26 am.
BSA 1969 A65F BSA 1966 A65H Triumph 1968 T120 Kawasaki A1R & too many projects!
I have never seen such a table and several times started to do one but as you have already found out there seems to be little consistency. There are some odd dealers sheets giving notice as to a change ut they are usually specific to one bike.
I would suggest Not being concerned with 'offsets' if you have the bike at hand. Roughly assemble the wheel on the bench and finnish the project on the bike. Pull up a stool and have at it. BTW, I have a nice Rowe wheel building stand I seldom use.
With the bike up on prop stands, spoke the front wheel to center the rim between the fork legs and running true.
With long straight edges (I use 1" alu tubing) clamped to the front rim and held dead parallel beneath the bike extending either side of the rear rim. If the front rim is narrower than the rear, tape on amd shim with some thin, ~ 1/4" wood moulding trim.
Spoke the rear rim to center it between the straight edges and running true. Using a dial indicator you can usually get a good rim within 20-40 thou both radial and axial run out.
Be Sure to use a proper wide jaw spoke wrench and not a bodge crescent wrench or something. You can make a perfect fitting wrench by fileing the gap in a japper mm spoke wrench from your local dealer. Insure the spokes are equally tight by the 'ding' sounds when tapped. If fitting SS spokes, be sure to lube the threads. Grind down any protruding spoke ends inside the rim.
Do it right. It might take a couple of evenings the first time, depending on the beer supply... but that's OK.
The issue is really where the centre of the rim should be for the application. Before I take a rim off a hub I first measure the offset of both rim edges in relation some key points on the hub. Then I measure the width of the rim and convert the measured offsets to the rim centre. With this data I am able to use a different rim without worrying about any difference in the width. I am not sure that new rims are always the exact same width for any given size. I am always leery about an offset given from only one side of the hub without a discussion of the exact width of the rim in question.
Without frequent roadside repairs there is no fun in riding!
If fitting SS spokes, be sure to lube the threads.
And if using stainless steel nipples, also be sure to lubricate the nipple where it bears on the rim.
Failing to do this can cause the contact area of the nipple/rim to gaul. This can lead to the head of the nipple physically reaming out the nipple hole in the rim as the nipple is being tightened. The result is a rim that will have to be replaced. John Healy