Pardon if this is redundant but I have tried previous threads to no avail. Does anyone have a shade-tree technique for removing the chome bezel on Smiths magnetics without ruining it? Merely cleaning and lubing chronometrics often restored full function without expensive repairs. But, since access to magnetics is virtually denied by the bezel configuration, this clean and lube treatment is also denied. I can`t believe odometer fraud was so rampant as to justify this approach. More likely the cheapo stamped tin "bottom-line" syndrome. Any method of cracking these safes at home without damage would be greatly appreciated.

Pokie
Ive done a few of them , its impossible not to damage the underside of the bezil but you dont see it when refitted.

All ive done is carefully work around the edge with a screw driver lifting the swaged down edge a little at a time, like take many many small "bites" and work around the diameter about 4 times lifting the swage a little more each time. Eventualy you can get the bezil off.

To reassemble using old bezil ive made a hard wood disc machined out into a cup which the bezil fits into. Then using a suibale peice of steel bar (about 5/16 or less) just go around the edge pressing it back down with a drill press, again a little at a time.

You get a shitty looking underside but hey it beats buying a new bezil each time.

Some say you cant reuse the bezil but ive had the same one on and off 3 times!

Another great idea someone had on here was that you dont crimp down the bezil again untill you are happy with the speedo (incase it has to come apart again in short order) you just tape it back temporary with black electrical tape.

have a look here: not comprehensive but a good start,

http://members.shaw.ca/randell/Smith/Speedo.html

PS you are dead right about magnetics just being a cheeping down of production. When you see the quality of components materials ect in the magnetic that will remove all doubt.....plastic gears ect and muck metal castings crimped to hold shafts, adjuster screws ect ....wonderfull.

PPS
what ever you do dont demount the needle return spring from its carrier....they are impossible to retension and refit without all manner of special tools.

Contact markbohman@hotmail.com. He does fine work ay reasonable prices.

David

I have replaced the glass in a few. As was said, it takes a steady hand and a lot of patience to get the bezel off, even more to get it back on without cracking the new glass.
As for being able to do anything once you get inside, I'm stumped. I can't find out what, if any, lubrication is recommended. Outside of the information in the previous link the rest seems to be a deep dark secret known only to the Druids and the few folks who specialize in repair, and they're not talking.

I wonder why those Indians on eBay don't start making copies of the magnetic instruments. Somebody does, but they never make 3:1 tachometers.

Hey you guys

I have repaired quite a few Smith instruments, no rocket-science!

As far as bezels go I've used a different kind of bezel with 6 tabs around the bezel instead of the solid thing.

I am unable to post pictures, if one of you supplies with an E-mail address I will gladly send you some pics.

Regards

Whisper

In Atlanta-

Joel Levine Co.
1178-A Zonolite Place
Atlanta, GA 30306
404-219-0594

He did the instuments on my 1969 Firebird.

Now that`s why this is a great forum. Thanks fellows for the ideas/experience. Ca7a and Gumby,...I appreciate the leads, but would like to cobble it meself, being cheap and handy. And Gumby,..haven`t seen you since the B&W television series. Ignoramus,...I have tried your technique...outcome was lame because of the repairman and tools, but I`ll attempt to make some special tool that might work better. I will follow your other advice. And, your avatar is the finest motorcycle ad ever produced. Whisper...very encouraging advice. Where do you score the tabbed replacement bezels? Would love to see a photo...email: muncie1942@sbcglobal.net. And DavidP,...I have an old bottle of typewriter oil that is the nuts for this type endeavor. Thanks again very much.

Pokie ...there are 2 types of crimped standard bezils , one is chromed bronze/brass the other is polished stainless. The stainless ones realy are a pig to get off but they can be done.

Best solvent Ive found for the actual cleaning is iso-hexane used carefully (laquer thinners is also ok but not as good as hexane), dont get it on the milage wheels or it will lift the white paint off, but works real well if carefully squirted between magnet and alloy plate with a little plactic bottle to losen bits of crap that cause needle to jump, then CAREFULLY blow it out with LOW pressure air 20/25 psi.Any stuborn peices of crud in there can be super carefully lossened with 1000 grit paper working the needle back and foward to buff them off. It does work.

They dont need much in the way of lube but your typewritter oil sounds fine, you can get special clock oil which is also good. Just around bottom bushing with maybee just the faintest trace of oil on the ally disc shaft.

Ive sealed some back up with "plumbers putty" around the glass/bezil join , its as water proof as. Not between the glass and the housing or you will never get it apart again when the putty dries.

Its a real sence of satisfacion when you repair something like that yourself which "experts" charge you a fortune for and some say you cant.

Keep us posted on how you get on, there are lots of common problems on those which are pretty easy to fix in "non standard" ways.

Good luck

Igno,...Damn, you Auckers know your business. Have you thought of doing seminars on this?...This info has to be helpful to a goodly amount of folks. Thanks again for sharing the expertise.

Here is a little book with good illustrations: Magnetic Speedometer Repair. Despite the general title, it focuses on Smiths instruments.

Thanks for that link, he has also written another book:
"Improving Classic Motorcycles" @ http://www.lulu.com/product/paperback/improving-classic-motorcycles/5123969

and also written a supplement/corrections/addendum you can view online:
"Supplement to the original edition of Improving Classic Motorcycles" @ http://www.lulu.com/product/paperba...of-improving-classic-motorcycles/5597389

click on 'Preview' to read the pages and get an idea..it looks good to me.

I love the concept of Lulu.com as a concept, I know people who have published their books there, they are printed to order ather than a giant stockpile somewhere unsold.