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A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... #219371
10/18/08 4:46 am
10/18/08 4:46 am
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
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Paul Burdette  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
The '71 thunderbolt i bought from another member here, gary, has finally been completely torn down and is ready for the rebuild. the left cylinder was badly scored and its piston's skirt was badly worn. i bought some .060" over pistons and had the cylinders rebored. the head has been disassembled and needs all new valve guides.

i finally got around to splitting the cases, and now i'm looking for some advice. i'm new to these engines, so i'm looking for some tips and advice on specific things i should be looking for or tips on how to improve or upgrade things in the rebuild. i've searched the forums and come up with a few good things and i can read the manual fine, i'm just hoping for some gems from you guys that have wrenched on these things a lot... i'm used to "modern" engines ('70's hondas ...).

thanks!

Last edited by Paul Burdette; 10/18/08 4:46 am.

1972 Norton Commando Combat
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Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Paul Burdette] #219389
10/18/08 12:39 pm
10/18/08 12:39 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,018
Stone Creek OH USA
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Rich B Offline

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Stone Creek OH USA
Take your time and be patient. The 71/72 manual is fairly complete. There is a lot of advice and how to on this board. IMO, that advice ranges from the practical to the esoteric... eek

You are working on an engine that had old technology in the bottom end when it was new. Not many understood it then, even less understand it now. Be patient as you work through it.

Oil pump needs carefully checked (do a search), clean the sludge trap, measure big ends, measure TS journal/bearing, remove/clan/replace as needed the OPRV, check intermediate timing pinion fit to case bushings, check shims/thrust washer, etc. Just take your time and be patient.

While you have it this far apart, IMO one of the best things you can do for your BSA is to have the crank dynamically balanced. It does wonders for the engine long term. Do a search on that subject too and be patient.

Go to the Triumph board and read John Healy's treatise on prepping the cylinder bores. It is worth the read. Be patient, it is long.

Don't be tempted to plane the head/cylinder unless they are truly warped.

When assembling the bottom end, be prepared to do it several times until the end play is correct. It takes patience and some care to get it right.

And ask questions.

And did I mention be patient? shocked


Life is too short to drink cheap, bad beer.
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Rich B] #219397
10/18/08 1:45 pm
10/18/08 1:45 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,881
Cape Carteret, NC
M
Mr Mike Offline
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Mr Mike  Offline
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Cape Carteret, NC
Paul,
Just a couple of points and these have been covered in many previous posts. (1) Use a reputable machinist for your machine work...cylinder boring, head work, crank work etc. The machinist should befamiliar with these motors, (2) Check alignment of your crank bores to be sure the bolted together cases are aligned. If in doubt, align bore the bush. (3) Put a filter on (4) At final assembly always torque the rotor nut before measuring endplay. It is not in the manual, but necessary to accurately set endplay.

Take your time....you have all winter to get it right.

Mr Mike

Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Mr Mike] #219425
10/18/08 5:34 pm
10/18/08 5:34 pm
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
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Paul Burdette  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
thanks, guys. that's just what i was looking for. i've noticed plenty of threads concerning the oil pump, so i had already planned lots of attention there. i've found lots of loose information, but when i search "A65 engine rebuild" or something similar on the forum, i don't come up with anything concise... if nothing else, this thread can serve to direct myself and others to them, so feel free to post links.

i use a very good machinist who knows these engines. i'll drop the rods and crank off with him to check for roundness and balance. the locals i know who use him recommend that i also have him check and remove the bushings, so i'll probably do that also. there doesn't seem to be much to these engines, i just want to make sure i take advantage of what has been learned about them over the years. for example, the article on preventing oil leaks from the primary case on the GABMA site is great.

anyway, keep the advice coming and i'll post plenty of questions along the way!


paul


1972 Norton Commando Combat
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Paul Burdette] #219523
10/19/08 12:46 pm
10/19/08 12:46 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,746
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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gavin eisler  Offline
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Posts: 3,746
argyll. scotland, uk
I have a 71 A65 L so I will wade in with some advice.
I wont comment on the timing side crank bush though I am sure others will, Mike already hit on the main points.

From the top down.

The rocker lid uses 4 off 5/16 unf fasteners ( upsized from previous years) and has the headsteady mount cast in, make sure your gasket replacement is for a 71, the two centre mounting studs need sealing washers Al or fibre under the nuts.

I have had best results with iron ex guides and Bronze inlets, ex v/v stems wear fast as well if the guides are toast.

Check the exhaust ports are not wallowed out where the headers enter, consider re sleeving if they are well hogged out.

Head to barrel leaks will happen if you have a warped head, fail to anneal the head gasket, have insufficiently stiff head bolt washers, any of the three. Some people fit wee O rings around the oil drains, I like to use a copper gasket spray as well.
Get SRM head bolt washers if the originals have gone missin, regular washers wont do.
When first started , the head beds down , at the 100 mile mark
prepare to retorque, usually the centre bolt will be loose. essential,but a pain in arse due to rocker shaft removal.


The two worst jobs are rocker shaft removal ( watch those thackeray washers and shims) and kick start spring replacment.


If replacing the cam shaft replace cam followers at the same time.

The crank should be well balanced since later cranks were machined allover , wont hurt to check with the new pistons though.

Primary drive chain , fit a new one even though the old one looks OK , the new one shouldnt have tight and loose spots , keeps the noise down.

Clutch, this is on the edge , if all components arnt A1 you are in for trouble, apart from the usual warped and worn plates pay particular attention to the cush drive, the spider can wear horribly causing tilting under load.
The clutch actuating ball ramp needs grease and careful attention , when setting the push rod end float it is easy to drive the balls off the ramp, you need a hand on the relase mech while setting the push rod clearance ( not mentioned in manuals), if you dont you will hear strange clicks from the mech.

If the clutch hasnt been kept fettled then pay a lot of attention the gearbox, dragging clutches are bad news for selector forks and dogs.

Pay attention to the gearbox layshaft endfloat before stripping the trap door and cluster out, you need to know if this is excessive (they usually are)

Gearbox, bearings last well particularly the needle rollers, as do the short stiff shafts
wear in the sliding gears is to be expected , if the dogs are really bad you can reverse the sliding gears and swap shafts to present clean faces on the drive flanks.

Lay shaft shimming is critical, search for posts by EdV for the gospel on shimming gears, the most improtant setting is overall end float , should be no more than 3 thou ( just perceptable).

The cam plate benefits from polishing around the rubbing points, plunger track , and fork tracks, file flat and polish to 600 grit finish.

The cam plate punger stock spring is too stiff and the change is very improved if two turns are cut off this.

The gearchange return spring is on an eccentric and can be tweaked to give clean changes up and down the box, a big improvement over earlier motors, again not mentioned in a a manual.

The gearchange quadrat dogs must be perfect , no chips where they engage in the cam plate windows.

Consider a new cam plate if your original is very beat up particularly at the 4 windows.
New selector forks if theres any bluing.

If your points and AR mech is in good shape then fine, if not then economically you may be better off with electronic ignition, Boyer or Pazon is the popular current choice.
Std coils can be improved on.
If fitting electronic ign, you charging system should be tip top, Genny rotors of this age can be weak though, it should more than support its own weight when magnetically sound.

You should have the good cast iron pump and it will probably benefit from a careful strip clean and reface of worn end plates, new internals are available if anything is badly worn.
Check the pump gasket fit , not many fit correctly and trim , particularly around the NRV ball seat.

Timing side idler pinion bushes can wear allowing the AR mech and points cam to flail giving rubbish timing, well worth checking.

The 71 cases had enlarged joint faces all over , they should be oiltight if good gaskets are used ,Steve 441 provides great quality gaskets, though may not have the whole 71 set.

Replace the sump plate with an Alum type with drain plug or modify your existing plate to take a drain, saves a lot of hassle when your bike wet sumps, if the bike isnt used regulary it will.

Cases clean up well in soapy water with a nylon pot scourer, replicate the factory finish on the dimpled centre casings by wiping with a rag dipped in Aluminium paint ( muuy autentico).

The 1/4 fasteners are all 1/4" UNC, I changed mine for socket head cap screws.

Cylinder heads are hard to clean around the exhaust ports.

HTH
Pod


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: gavin eisler] #219528
10/19/08 1:13 pm
10/19/08 1:13 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,881
Cape Carteret, NC
M
Mr Mike Offline
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Cape Carteret, NC
Pod ,
Great memory or a good filing system. Had to copy your post to my A65 file.

Mr Mike

Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Mr Mike] #219634
10/20/08 12:11 am
10/20/08 12:11 am
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
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Paul Burdette  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
that's exactly the kind of thing i was looking for! now applying all that advice along the way will be a task...


1972 Norton Commando Combat
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Paul Burdette] #222764
11/09/08 8:35 pm
11/09/08 8:35 pm
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
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Paul Burdette  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
just ordered all my bushes, bearings and seals, etc. every bush in the thing was worn well beyond specs. when ordering the crank timing side bearing, there was a more-expensive two piece version... does that one simply reduce the chance of poor alignment on installation and the ensuing infamous oil pressure woes? is it worth the price? i balked on buying the two-piece, but only because i trust my machinist well to install it correctly.

wish the roller bearing conversion had been in my budget.


1972 Norton Commando Combat
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Paul Burdette] #222833
11/10/08 4:55 am
11/10/08 4:55 am
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,245
arkansas
L
leon bee Offline
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arkansas
There are a lot of us riding these bikes, and not that many of us have popped for a bearing conversion. On that bush, the two piece might have been NOS. For those, you had stock, .010, and .020. The crank is ground for the bush, and the bush is not reamed. Then there are the brass or bronze one piece bushes. For them, the crank is ground or not then the bush reamed to fit. I think.

A few years ago here on the board, some made it sound like every one of these A65s was just waiting to blow. Had me a little worried. You could only get by if you changed the bearing/oiling setup. Or you could only get by if you had an NOS bush and obsessed about everything else. Or maybe a one piece of some special process from one manufacturer. Now it seems a lot more like ANYthing will work, if you are not racing it.

I've got 6 of them here now, half the engines are mix and match eBay and other basket parts. You know, try a couple different cranks till one fits the bush pretty well according to my vintage dial indicator. All have oil pressure, but I try not to wind em up more than about 6500 or so. The one I'm riding the most now is almost experimental- everything except the rod bearings was too loose, and instead of an expensive new drive side roller bearing I put in a Chinese ball bearing. Maybe I'll take it easy on this one for a while.

Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: leon bee] #222850
11/10/08 12:25 pm
11/10/08 12:25 pm
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 406
Chelmsford MA
M
MarcB Offline
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MarcB  Offline
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Chelmsford MA
Originally Posted By: leon bee
A few years ago here on the board, some made it sound like every one of these A65s was just waiting to blow.


I think there are two types of rebuilds: old-school and new-school. Old-school you simply tear it down to replace what broke, then put it back together (why fix it if it ain't broke). New-school, as long as you have it apart you have everything miked and checked out by a reputable shop and replace every bearing and seal (spend a few $$$ now to save a bunch more later).

Personally, in rebuilding my Spitfire, I'm taking the old-school approach for most things. I'm replacing the bush only because I'm also replacing the crank and the old crank was undersize, otherwise I'd have left it. I'm using the bronze bush, and had to have it align bored to match the crank.

Timing side roller bearing is also being replaced because it was stuck in the race; otherwise it would have stayed. All other bushes are staying in place.

Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Paul Burdette] #222852
11/10/08 12:48 pm
11/10/08 12:48 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,018
Stone Creek OH USA
R
Rich B Offline

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Rich B  Offline

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Stone Creek OH USA
The 2 piece bearing is the OEM style bearing. If you spring for the 2 piece, make sure it has the dowel pin locating the bearing to the housing. Some of the aftermarket bearings seem to be missing this little piece eek. Also make sure the shoulder of the bearing is the same thickness as your old one. Some people sell you old stock BSA and aftermarket bearings that are intended for the early (pre 65) motors.

The one piece do seem to work. But they almost always need attention to get the crank to fit. The 2 piece vary, some allow a crank ground to spec to fit just fine, others need attention. IME, the NOS BSA bearings (if you can find one) are the easiest to work with.

Leaon is nailed it with his comments, there are people who swear an A65 is a bomb waiting to go off. Reality is, there are a lot of people riding these bikes with a stock bottom end and they work just fine. They just require care and patience at assembly.

IMO, most of the so called faults with an A65 is the lube system of the early engines (some 69's and back). BSA corrected what I believe is the major deficiency during the 69 model year. The only thing I would change on a 71 is update the OPRV to an SRM OPRV. It does have tighter piston to body fit and so far, IME, works great.

And forget the oil pressure switch readings at low RPM. BSA has, IMO, a problem with the switch cavity. Most don't break cleanly into the main oil galley and will give you a false low oil pressure reading. Most of the "infamous" low oil pressure on the late engines is due to the switch cavity.


Life is too short to drink cheap, bad beer.
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Rich B] #223077
11/11/08 9:31 pm
11/11/08 9:31 pm
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
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Paul Burdette  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
great info, guys. i've already ordered the one-piece, so i'll just have to make sure it gets installed correctly. i'll be doing an external oil filter conversion, so hopefully that will help keep all of my passageways a little cleaner. i'll definitely look into the SRM OPRV valve.

i'll update with pictures as i start getting it back together. thanks!


1972 Norton Commando Combat
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Rich B] #223230
11/12/08 9:17 pm
11/12/08 9:17 pm
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,934
Gnashville
DavidP Offline

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DavidP  Offline

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Gnashville
Originally Posted By: Rich B
Most of the "infamous" low oil pressure on the late engines is due to the switch cavity.


I used to get the light flashing at idle. I replaced the switch with a mechanical gauge.
How accurate will the gauge be?


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim"
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: DavidP] #223243
11/12/08 10:33 pm
11/12/08 10:33 pm
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 627
Chesapeake Virginia
aprophet Offline
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Chesapeake Virginia
"Replace the sump plate with an Alum type with drain plug or modify your existing plate to take a drain, saves a lot of hassle when your bike wet sumps, if the bike isnt used regulary it will."

hey Paul it don,t hurt to safety wire the drain plug to one of the mounting screws ala MX/Dirt bike fashion hth pal beerchug


1964 A65C Rocket (Jeanie)
1971 T25SS
1971 A65T BSA (Lucile)
1965 A65D Lightning Rocket
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: aprophet] #223255
11/13/08 12:17 am
11/13/08 12:17 am
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
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Paul Burdette  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Originally Posted By: aprophet
"Replace the sump plate with an Alum type with drain plug or modify your existing plate to take a drain, saves a lot of hassle when your bike wet sumps, if the bike isnt used regulary it will."

hey Paul it don,t hurt to safety wire the drain plug to one of the mounting screws ala MX/Dirt bike fashion hth pal beerchug


my triumph has already taught me that it's not a bad idea to safety-wire everythingon these bikes... wink


1972 Norton Commando Combat
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Paul Burdette] #223267
11/13/08 2:30 am
11/13/08 2:30 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,881
Cape Carteret, NC
M
Mr Mike Offline
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Cape Carteret, NC
Paul,
I see no reason for a single piece bush not to work well if it is made from good material. I used a two piece where I made the bush insert from bar stock that my machinist recommended. We pressed it into the steel liner, doweled it, and pressed it into the case. Just make sure that once pressed inthe case that the crank bores are aligned when the cases are bolted together. This can be done on a milling machine or a jig borer. It the bores are near perfectly aligned you can ream the bush to finished size or grind the crank to fit if it must be ground anyway. If they are not aligned you need to align bore to get a true fit. Target for clearance of .0015. If everything is right it will spin freely with the cases torqued. If there is any bind as you torque the case there will be problems down the road. Some folks think I am a little too particular on this point, but a true running crank with a good oil pump and a filter system is a good start for a nice running, long lived motor, assuming all the other stuff is right.

Good Luck,
Mr Mike

Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Mr Mike] #223298
11/13/08 7:07 am
11/13/08 7:07 am
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Paul Burdette  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Originally Posted By: Mr Mike
Paul,
I see no reason for a single piece bush not to work well if it is made from good material. I used a two piece where I made the bush insert from bar stock that my machinist recommended. We pressed it into the steel liner, doweled it, and pressed it into the case. Just make sure that once pressed inthe case that the crank bores are aligned when the cases are bolted together. This can be done on a milling machine or a jig borer. It the bores are near perfectly aligned you can ream the bush to finished size or grind the crank to fit if it must be ground anyway. If they are not aligned you need to align bore to get a true fit. Target for clearance of .0015. If everything is right it will spin freely with the cases torqued. If there is any bind as you torque the case there will be problems down the road. Some folks think I am a little too particular on this point, but a true running crank with a good oil pump and a filter system is a good start for a nice running, long lived motor, assuming all the other stuff is right.

Good Luck,
Mr Mike


thanks, mr. mike. (my, there are a lot of southerners on this forum) i'll make sure my machinist pays special attention to this, though he seems to be on the ball. all the local restorers and rebuilders seem to use him. thanks!


1972 Norton Commando Combat
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Paul Burdette] #223301
11/13/08 10:04 am
11/13/08 10:04 am
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,380
Bega NSW Australia
Mark Parker Offline
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Mark Parker  Offline
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Bega NSW Australia
David, I always run a gauge. The drilling on mine must be ok. I feed the crank from that on my motor with an extension also with the gauge take off. It tells you lots about what is going on with the motor. Pressure varies with rpm and oil temp, but you can soon work out what is normal. With the end feed if the oilseal fails, (not normal but can happen) running pressure can go from 60psi to 10psi and it's nice to know. For me I just like the reassurance at a glance that the oil system is working normally.


mark
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: MarcB] #223303
11/13/08 10:33 am
11/13/08 10:33 am
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,674
Sydney Australia
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BSA_WM20 Offline
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Sydney Australia
Well I tend towards the new school , Then I was taught to do it once, and do it right.

While the crank is out get it Nitrided about the best $ 40.00 you will ever spend.
There are a lot of myths about self distructing A50/65 cranks to which I can ony say 2 things.
1) If you abuse anything enough it will break
2) a member has just pulled down a still running quite well daily ride A 50 with the timing side journal machined down .142" and coke can shims under the con rod slipper bearings till they had worn completely through the white metal onto the steel backing. These bikes are a lot tougher than legend would have you believe.


Bike Beesa
Trevor
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: DavidP] #223308
11/13/08 11:44 am
11/13/08 11:44 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,018
Stone Creek OH USA
R
Rich B Offline

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Rich B  Offline

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Stone Creek OH USA
DavidP sez:

"I used to get the light flashing at idle. I replaced the switch with a mechanical gauge.
How accurate will the gauge be?"

Since you no doubt plumbed it into the same cavity, it will be no better. Might even be worse depending on accuracy of the gauge.


Life is too short to drink cheap, bad beer.
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: BSA_WM20] #223332
11/13/08 1:46 pm
11/13/08 1:46 pm
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 7,813
Seattle
Alex Offline

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Alex  Offline

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Posts: 7,813
Seattle
Originally Posted By: BSA_WM20
While the crank is out get it Nitrided about the best $ 40.00 you will ever spend.


Holy crap! You guys have people that will nitride a crank for $40!? Wish I could find someone that cheap around here...


A smattering:
'53 Gold Flash
'67 Royal Star
'71 Rickman Metisse
'40 Silver Star
'37 Rudge Special
sixtyseventy Lightboltrocket road racer...and many more.
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Rich B] #229924
12/27/08 8:05 pm
12/27/08 8:05 pm
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
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Paul Burdette  Offline OP
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Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
ok- finally got all my parts in, and the bushings and bearings are at the machine shop with my cases, rods, and crank etc. getting honed/fit, and all that. i sandblasted the head (with oil holes plugged up well) and barrels and will paint the barrels today. i'm told the cases and head are left bare aluminum for proper restoration. is this correct? i burnished the head after blasting with an abrasive disk on my drill press that i use to prepare parts for polishing. i wouldn't usually use it for this as it would leave swirl marks in the aluminum, but lucky for my the BSA castings are very rough..

it required all new valve guides, both exhaust valves, pistons are .060" over, main bearing ended up being .050" under (thank god for aftermarket manufacturers), rod bearings third under... this engine has seen some wear. i'm replacing every bushing and bearing in the engine, so hopefully i'll be giving it a renewed life.


1972 Norton Commando Combat
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Paul Burdette] #276058
09/23/09 5:57 pm
09/23/09 5:57 pm
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Paul Burdette  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
does a new head gasket need to be annealed? neither manual i have say so, nor the "building budget brits" book i have.


1972 Norton Commando Combat
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Paul Burdette] #276061
09/23/09 6:36 pm
09/23/09 6:36 pm
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 7,813
Seattle
Alex Offline

BritBike Forum member
Alex  Offline

BritBike Forum member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 7,813
Seattle
Originally Posted By: Paul Burdette
does a new head gasket need to be annealed? neither manual i have say so, nor the "building budget brits" book i have.


Some may not, but there's no way to tell that I know of. I always anneal them after one new one I got didn't seal.


A smattering:
'53 Gold Flash
'67 Royal Star
'71 Rickman Metisse
'40 Silver Star
'37 Rudge Special
sixtyseventy Lightboltrocket road racer...and many more.
Re: A65 engine rebuild advice catch-all... [Re: Alex] #276096
09/24/09 1:25 am
09/24/09 1:25 am
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
Paul Burdette Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Paul Burdette  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 197
portland, oregon, USA
I pulled it apart and annealed it. Re-reading the advice on here, I realized that I had intended to put o-rings around the oil holes and hadn't.


1972 Norton Commando Combat
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